The kiping at Pahiyas Festival

Now, for the main dish. The number one reason why I went to Lucban last May 15th was because of Pahiyas Festival. Yup, that’s right. The fiesta of splashing colours, food, alcohol, revelry, religiosity and the invasion of the paparazzi. Pahiyas Festival has been known all over the Philippines as the fiesta with colurful buntings decorated in the town’s houses called kiping. Seen at post cards, text books and even foreign TV shows, Quezon Province’s most famous festival brings thousands of people to the rustic yet cool town in the foothills of Mount Banahaw, Lucban.

For the record, perstaym ko po pumunta dito! Nope, di lang Pahiyas, pati na rin pagpunta sa Lucban! Yes, nakarating na ako sa bayan ng Pahiyas, longanisa, pansit habhab at ang sagot sa vodka ng mga Tagalog, ang lambanog!

The fiesta of a thousand colourful kipings is a celebration and thanksgiving to the bountiful harvests to the farmer’s patron saint San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Worker), held every 15th day of May. One thing’s interesting though, Lucban’s patron saint is not San Isidro Labrador, but San Luis Obispo and the town’s patronal fiesta is held every August. But nonetheless, an agricultural-based town offers its best to the saint of its workers.

It starts from here. No jeeps were allowed to enter Lucban town proper

The Centuries-old Church of San Luis Obispo and The Religious Procession

We reached there at around 7AM. Wow, no traffic yet! Jeepneys weren’t allowed to get inside, so we took the tricycle all the way to the centuries-old San Luis Obispo Church (Lucban Church). The procession of the saints has just started with the images of Saint Therese of the Child Jesus and San Isidro Labrador leading the faithful through the streets of Lucban.

Lucban Town Plaza

Mount Banahaw looming over Lucban--The main reason why its cool around here

The cool crisp mountain air sure is refreshing. You ain’t going tired that easily even if the sun is up 12 noon! Iba talaga kung naglalakad ka sa arawan na may preskong malamig na hangin.

Panorama of Lucban from Kamay ni Hesus

That morning, since there are no activities yet, we decided to climb Lucban’s tourist and religious site, “Kamay ni Hesus” (Hand of Jesus) [I'll post an article later this week about it] and went back to the town centre for some lunch.

One of Lucban's Old Houses restored

After lunch, then came the people. Peculiar since most festivals I’ve been through, its in  the morning where its most crowded. People here start to trickle in after lunch! Simulan na ang mahabang paglalakad para makita ang kagandahan ng piyestang Pahiyas!

Unlike most fiestas that I’ve covered, the main attraction here is not street dancing, but the houses decorated with colourful buntings. They vary, from the simplest to the most ostentatious (o masasabi nating huling araw na ng kiping). Kiping are colourful leaf-shaped buntings that are hanged or plastered at the facade of the houses. Take note, its edible–made from rice with some food colouring on it. Kids actually munch on it after the feast! Green activists rejoice! It’s not plastic! Its totally biodegradable!

For San Isidro Labrador

Other than kiping, fruits, vegetables, fabric and other decor make the houses unique. (And a lot of old bahay na bato here too! Me like it!) At most, the decors display the lifestyle and the bounty of Lucban, its people and its industry. Vegetables abound the decorations, and so are the tourists. It was already 2PM and cameras has start shooting Lucban’s celebrities! Ang daming turista, may it be local or foreign. Overnight, Lucban was turned into Disneyland! A lot of photo booths with decors await the tourists…daming camwhore, dami ring jejemon!

Whew! The road was long, we managed to get back to the town’s main plaza for another Pahiyas’s highlight: The procession. Dandararan, this is the beginning of the infamous May 15 Traffic Jams of Quezon Province.

Pancit Habhab mobile trolley

The escort and the muse

The procession started with some local officials and bands with their “tunog-lata” marching ensemble.

The decorated carozza

The carabao and the farmer -- the celebrants of today's feast

Healthy living starts here

San Isidro Labrador and kipings

From decorated pansit habhab mobile stores (mga nagpapadyak ng pansit habhab), to the procession of escorts and muses in their costumes that are surely 100% Pinoy, to the decorated carabao carts (with kids) and to floats with some celebrities on it. The procession was full of spectators and brought the festive mode a notch higher. Love the atmosphere!

The procession goes on!

The crowd at Lucban's main road

As the day ends, the whole town itself is in fiesta mode. Traffic was halted into a standstill. The roads leading to and from Lucban were parking lots! Still, the people goes up with the revelry. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to see the lighting of the kiping decors or pailaw. I saw some photos of it and it was darn beautiful! Nevertheless, I’ve enjoyed the feast much.

And traffic was halt to a standstill

Splashes of colour and revelry filled up the streets of Lucban. The creativity, hard work and love for life mirrors Pahiyas. Ingenuity, celebration and faith at its best the farmers and the Lucban residents could offer to the Almighty. For tourists and culture afficionados, its a feast of awe-inspiring creativity. For the photographers, a paradise. For the jejemon, it is somewhere to make porma!

The farmer--the "bida" for this revelry

I’ll come back to this town next time, with or without Pahiyas. Lucban would be on my list.

For more photos of Lucban and Pahiyas:

Arroyo Fountain, the logo for Panubli-on

After several years of dormancy, Panubli-on: The Iloilo Heritage Blog, will come back. To bring Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage and history into the cyberspace. Sharing the legacy of Iloilo’s glorious past and for a brighter future. Soon, we’ll be adding up articles, activities and a whole lot more. For now, a bit of tweaking in the blog is needed.

To Lucban!

Well, I guess I was excited back then. It was my first time going to Lucban for Pahiyas Festival. The feast that I could only see on telly or on books. I’ve seen Sinulog, Dinagyang and Masskara for countless times already but this crowning jewel of Quezon Province’s feasts is something that I would look forward into. Such colourful and attractive feast has made me like a bee, attracted to the colour of the kipings and revelry. It was my first time going there and I’ll be commuting. May 15 is a notorious date to any commuter or motorist going south, as horrific stories of traffic jams linger. But I dared!

Which is which?

I called in the Quezon Provincial Tourism Office and sought advise on what’s the best route going to Lucban. My friends from Quezon and the tourism people have a unanimous answer: Go Laguna-Pagsanjan instead!

Here’s why:

The Notorious Traffic at Lucban

1. We all know that Lucban is in Quezon Province and the main route is through Maharlika Highway which passes through San Pablo City in Laguna and towns of Tiaong, Sariyaya, Candelaria and of course Lucena City, the kabisera. Well, they’ve warned me of the infamous traffic that said to have spanned all the way to Laguna (San Pablo). Reason: Tiaong and Sariyaya have their own version of Pahiyas fiesta. Expect traffic that may last for hours for the whole day. Commuters and motorists are advised to avoid the Maharlika Highway route unless visiting the affected towns or necessary. Much better if mapa-aga na lang kayo pumunta ng Bicol o Lucena.
2. The Laguna Route, which passes by Santa Cruz and Pagsanjan, is the easiest and fastest way to go to Lucban. Besides that there are no feasts in this side, the distance to Manila is much closer. It only takes an hour or less to travel by jeepney from Santa Cruz to Pagsanjan.

So obviously we went on the easier one.

A long and winding road to Pahiyas

Bus Arriving at Santa Cruz Laguna

Travel Log:

• 15 May 2010 | 02:30AM – My friend and I arrived at the Green Star bus terminal at Taft Avenue corner Buendia in Pasay City. It was too early. The guard told us that the first trip leaves the terminal by 3:30AM. So we went to KFC and have our late midnight snack/early breakfast.

Note: There are several bus companies that serve Manila-Santa Cruz route: Green Star (Pasay City terminal/Aircon bus), HM Transport (Cubao Bus Terminal/Aircon bus) and Calamba Megatrans (Alabang Bus Terminal/Ordinary/Non-Air Conditioned bus).

• 15 May 2010 | 03:00AM – The bus is parked and calling in for passengers. Good! We sat comfortably.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:15AM – Whoa! Was there a group booking. A bunch of excursionists went into the bus…At this rate, we’ll be leaving early! The bus is almost full…5 minutes later, the last seat was occupied.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:30AM – We left Pasay and bound for Santa Cruz
• 15 May 2010 | 03:45AM – We have encountered traffic somewhere between Bicutan and Sucat. Skyway construction on-going. We were stuck in the traffic for 30 minutes…ang aga naman ng trapik sa SLEX!
• 15 May 2010 | 04:20AM – We finally made it out of the traffic but saw this huge fire engulfing some houses in Muntinlupa. Only later to find out that it was one of the worst fire disasters in Muntinlupa City.
• 15 May 2010 | 05:00AM – Finally, we reached Calamba City. Ang aga ng trapik dito! The narrow roads and on-going developments (there is a SM mall being constructed near the public market. Good luck for the traffic though).
• 15 May 2010 | 05:30AM – We were in College, Laguna (UPLB junction)
• 15 May 2010 | 05:45AM – We passed by the town of Pila. For the first time, I saw the old houses and heritage buildings in this town. I’m planning to go back here sometime soon.
• 15 May 2010 | 06:15AM – Finally, we reached Santa Cruz. We have to take a ride through a jeepney (a big one) to Lucban. At pila ng bigas ang scenario! The bus stops over at the junction where Lucban-bound jeepneys are parked. Just tell the conductor to advise you to bring you to the jeepney terminal. Most likely, the bus conductor would mention it anyway.

Jeepney bound for Lucban

And those who dared! I wish I was there, hehe!

• 15 May 2010 | 06:20AM – We left Santa Cruz and passed by Pagsanjan. Off we go up in the mountains between Laguna and Quezon Provinces.

Pagsanjan Gate

The Long and Winding Road from Pagsanjan to Lucban

Passing by Pagsanjan Church

• >> Note: Nakakatakot ang daanan! The jeepney was full to the brim, and we have people on the rooftop! The curves were sharp and ravine is just beyond the road gutter!Yet, fear was replaced with appreciation of nature and the sun rising in the east. The air was cool and crisp. May nagpa-andar ba ng aircon? The cool air would remain all the way to Lucban for the rest of the day! Sarap naman! Refreshing!
• 15 May 2010 | 06:40AM – Passed by the town of Cavinti in Laguna

Luisiana Plaza

• 15 May 2010 | 06:50AM – Passed by the town of Luisiana in Laguna (take note of the pronunciation: “Luwisyana”…you might thought its the State of Louisiana in US).

Inside the jeepney

• 15 May 2010 | 07:00AM – Crossed the border of Quezon and Laguna! Yehey! And Mount Banahaw welcomes us!

Bawal na ang Jeepney sa loob ng bayan ng Lucban! Tricycles line up for passengers bound for Lucban's town proper

• 15 May 2010 | 07:15AM – Junction Lucban. Jeepneys are not allowed to enter the town proper. Nagsisimula na! So we rode a tricycle that brought us all the way to San Luis Obispo Parish Church (or Lucban Church). We were just in time for the first activity of the day: The religious procession!

Procession of San Isidro Labrador at Lucban

Its just the start of my Pahiyas de Lucban experience…something that I wouldn’t forget! Mga wala kaming tulog pero nagsisimula pa lang ang araw namin.

Transportation fare:

Okay, for those budget-conscious or just plain cheap, here are the fares:

• Pasay City to Santa Cruz, Laguna (Air-conditioned bus) – PhP149.00 (US$3.00)
• Santa Cruz, Laguna to Lucban, Quezon (jeepney) – PhP45.00 (US$1.00)

More photos here:

San Joaquin Church Rendicion d' Tetuan

Last week, we were in Batangas for a visita iglesia in Taal’s prominent religious structures—the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours and Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine. Today, we fly all the way to the Visayas to visit Iloilo. Our first stop would go all the way to the southernmost town of the province, San Joaquin. This town is known to be one of the landing sites of the mythical Ten Bornean Datus. However, the crowning jewel of this southern town would be its 19^th century church and its cemetery. The church however tells the story of the San Joaquin’s history, carved in stone.

San Joaquin Church is located a few metres away from the highway. It’s situated on an elevated hill near the coast. It’s pretty good location for a church. This greyish-white church was constructed under the supervision of the Spanish priest Tomas Santaren, together with Spanish and Mexican artists. It was built in 1859. Made with coral stone or limestone, egg whites, blood, sweat and tears by our ancestors, this church became a fort when the Moro raiders invade the southern Panay coast. According to Funtecha, the church became an evacuation centre during the Japanese occupation. However, Col. Macario Peralta, leader of the guerrilla resistance in Panay, ordered the church and the rest of the town to be burned to the ground in 1943 (talk about the burning culture). In 1948, a powerful earthquake toppled down the old belfry—yup, the same tremor that destroyed Jaro’s belfry and the magnificent old Oton Church!  Good thing though, the church facade remained intact. Later on, in 1974, it was declared as a national historical site by the National Historical Institute.

San Joaquin Church

Although architecturally baroque, the church has its own crown jewel—the Rendicion d’Tetuan stone relief (The Surrender of Tetouan) carved in its pediment. This obra maestra is one of its kind in Western Visayas, and perhaps the whole country, since this is one of the most militaristic motifs in any religious structure in the country.

The Agustinian Seal in San Joaquin Church

Depicting the Battle of Tetuan in 1860, the relief features Spanish forces defeating the Moorish forces in the siege of Tetuan—which resulted Spanish victory. The medieval town is shown on the upper part of the pediment while the Spanish forces moved in towards Tetuan. Horses, men with guns and a medieval city dominate the pediment. However, the lush tropical fauna was incorporated in the relief. The legendary Santiago Matamoros was said to have been included in the carvings. On top of the pediment, instead of a cross, a carving of Nuestra Señora de Angustias was installed.

The legendary Santiago de Matamoros?

Nuestra Señora de las Angustias at the top of the pediment of San Joaquin Church

The battle somehow reflects the Moro-Moro thinking during the Spanish colonial era in the Visayas, given that the Visayans were frequently raided by the Moros of Mindanao during three centuries that the Philippines was under the rule of the Cross and the Sword. Perhaps, it gave San Joaquinhons some boost in their morale during those times–a manifestation that San Joaquinhon Christians see their victory over the marauding Moros back then.

San Joaquin Church

The San Joaquin Church is a testament of the way our ancestors lived during the Spanish colonial rule. Behind the beautiful stone carvings of the church, lie the stories of the San Joaquinhons’ struggles, faith and victories.

More photos here:

Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives

Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

In observance of the Holy Week, HabagatCentral.com would embark on a journey similar to the Filipino tradition during these reflective times. With seven churches visited within the past three weeks in Batangas and Iloilo, tara na at bumisita tayo sa mga simbahan. More than just sites of Filipino religiosity, but also a mirror of the richness of Filipino culture and heritage. Our first stop: Batangas!

It was one hot summer Sunday when my family and I went on to Batangas. Just for a change of environment, especially church days, we went off to Taal. I’ve been here several times but I wanted to bring my family to this famed heritage village. Instead of heading to Pink Sisters in Tagaytay, we decided to go to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay—believed to be the patroness of the Batanguñeos.

Caysasay Belfry

The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay is found besides Pansipit River, just at the foot of the hillside town proper of Taal. The Shrine was believed to be where the image of the Virgin Mary was found amongst the casay-casay or kingfishers, sitting on a sampaguita bush.

The Legend of Juan Maningcad and The Blessed Virgin Mural

According to a legend, in 1603 at the town of Taal, a fisherman named Juan Maningcad found a six-inch image of Our Lady of Caysasay grabbed by his fishing net. Awe-stricken by its aura and presence, Maningcad began to praise the image and returned it home. Having learned the account, the priest of the town went to Maningcad’s house and requested that the image be venerated and celebrated a feast. From then on, under the guardianship of Madam Maria Espiritu, the image frequently disappeared. In 1611, the “Lady” was found on top of a sampaguita bush surrounded by kingfisher birds. Also, there were recorded miraculous appearances by the Lady and has done miraculous things. The people believed that the Lady would like to have her shrine built in the place where she was found, therefore the construction of the Shrine.

Ang Birhen ng Caysasay

The news spread like wildfire, first within Batangas, then beyond.

Inside the "pyramidical dome" of Caysasay Shrine

Up to this day, Batangueno Catholics go here and pay homage to the image of Caysasay. Believed to be miraculous, the image is located at the retablo in the church. Pilgrims have the chance to touch the image’s hair by going to the stairs behind the shrine.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Stairway

I have been here before, passing through Taal town proper then down to the grand staircase linking the uphill poblacion to Caysasay Shrine. Built during the Spanish colonial era, the grand stairway of San Lorenzo Ruiz is one major pedestrian link from the Basilica to the Shrine. Good exercise area too!

Our Lady of Caysasay Seal at the pediment of the shrine

Anyway, while I was taking a photo of candles at the front of the shrine, a local approached me and asked “Nakapunta na ba po kayo sa may balon?” I said, I haven’t. She replied, “dun po kasi huling nakita ang Mahal na Birhen, sana po pumunta po kayo din doon.” I wish I had the luxury of time–the Santa Lucia Wells, as they say, is worth exploring.

Red candles with a human figure

Something tells me that I’ll be returning in this shrine over and over again. Although small as compared to the Basilica just a few metres away, it still maintains its charm to be one of Batangas’s most significant religious places.

Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine Retablo

Next stop: That grand Basilica uphill! Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours–said to be the largest of its kind in Asia!

Inside The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

More photos of Caysasay, Basilica, Batangas and more here:

Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


View Larger Map

Bacolor Church at Simbang Gabi, Pampanga, Philippines

It was a surprise visit, really. I never knew that we would go back to Bagong Pag-asa! It was just last Palm Sunday when we visited Bacolor, Pampanga for my visita iglesia. It’s the usual sightseeing and appreciation of our ancestor’s legacy to our country. This was no ordinary visita iglesia this time. For the longest time, I would like to see and listen to different misas del gallo in different provinces of the country…and Bro heard my prayers. For the first time, I’ve heard mass in vernacular…Kapampangan!

It was 4AM and our van driver was searching for the venue of the activity of Kraft Eden Cheese on a Simbang Gabi in a church in Pampanga. Like the three kings, we seeketh the venue like searching for Christ until the name “San Guillermo Church” was mentioned. It was music to my ears; I’ll be coming back where Santino is!

The cool breeze of Christmas dawn embraced the weary travelers and welcomed by the lights and the smell of incense. For me, it was heaven…savouring the smell of incense once more…after three years!

The Church of San Guillermo (or Saint William Parish Church) of Bacolor was of baroque feature built by the Agustinian friars sometime in the Spanish colonial era (More details here) Half-buried in lahar, it is a testament of resiliency of the Kapampangans to face the trials of living after Apo Namalyari unleashed his fury over the Philippines through Pinatubo. 18 years later, the belfry, the façade, the church, the old convent and the sementeryo where “Bro”was…half buried yet with their ravaged beauty held high above the new ground.

There were no Latin songs in the simbang gabi in Bacolor like the way we used to in Iloilo. Yet one thing that caught my attention was the heavy usage of Kapampangan language in the mass. Again, it was music to my ears and really made me listen even though I only understand “mangan tamu,” “mekeni,” and “kaluguran.” I think given if I was assigned in Pampanga, I might speak and understand the language well…how I wish I could be as polyglot as Rizal.

Here’s a glimpse of Kapampangan Gospel reading according to the book of Luke:

Before the priest gave his final blessing, the Bacolor youth presented their cultural performance of traditional Filipino dances. Celebrating the last day of misa del gallo and the day before Christmas. It was a joyous sight!

Facade of Bacolor Church, Pampanga, Philippines

And as fireworks explode up in the skies of Bacolor and the bells o’ringing…the sunrise greeted the people who attended the mass. It was a rare treat for me to hear Kapampangan in such way it was eloquently said and used. Truly, the beauty of our Filipino culture and the spirit of Christmas brought cheers and hope to all.

Merry Christmas to all!

Here’s the map of Bacolor Church, Pampanga courtesy of Google Maps:


View Bacolor Church, Pampanga in a larger map

Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Philippines

You haven’t been to Vigan if you didn’t set on foot at Calle Crisologo. This is the heart and soul of Spanish colonial Philippine village of Vigan. This brought the city to its prestige as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Indeed, Calle Crisologo, or sometimes called Vigan Heritage Village, transports people back into time when the Philippines was under Madre España.

The streetscape, spanning from Burgos Plaza towards Liberation Avenue, is lined with old bahay-na-bato houses, mostly made of brick or stone at the ground floor and hard wood on its second floor. The complete row of aged ancestral houses survived the onslaught of Mother Nature, wars and Father Time himself. Most of the roofs of the houses though are made of galvanized iron, only a few still use tejas or tiles.

The street is paved in cobblestone, much like any old urban cores during the Spanish colonial era. It is a vestige of colonial Europe in Asian setting.

A Calle Crisologo antique shop

As mentioned earlier, the bahay-na-bato houses are made of stone, brick or masonry in the first level while the second floor, made of hard wood. Houses back then were like this since they use the first floor, not as a residential floor, but as a bodega and garaje for their calesas. Some make their ground level floors as commercial shops. The second floor on the other hand was used as the residential area. It seems to have brought the bahay kubo aspect.

Hero, the calesa horse, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Our calesa stopped here. I was amazed with the number of heritage houses…the streetscape…everything! As if I was brought back a hundred years ago…minus the tourists though.

House under renovation, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Today, Calle Crisologo is frequently used as a shooting location for local films and TV shows. I saw this at Marilou Diaz-Abaya’s film “Jose Rizal” and CCP’s “Noli me Tangere” series. The well-preserved streetscape and houses has brought tourists by the thousands every year. Houses were turned into antique shops or commercial establishments. It gave jobs to local Bigueños and Ilocanos and has boosted Vigan’s economy and commerce. Although the presence of tourists has brought “artificiality” in the area, this proves that old houses can be used for today’s benefit. Not only it teaches us our history and heritage as a Filipino nation, but on how we can create a sustainable living with our heritage held high!

It’s 11:30AM. Time to hit the road again and go back to Manila…(passing by La Union province though for a brief visit). We bid our cucheros farewell at Burgos Plaza, paid them and thanked them for their service. I shall return! Veni Vidi Vicci Vigan!

More photos of Calle Crisologo here:

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Calesa de Vigan

I’ve reiterated before that we only have a short half-day stay in Vigan City in Ilocos Sur. Bitin! But I’ve enjoyed it a lot…that I’m craving for coming back at Vigan in the near future. The laidback and charming heritage city in fairness can be toured within half-a-day, just like what we did last year…with several stops, appreciating Vigan’s nostalgic beauty. Tok-tok-tok-tok, the stomping of horses surrounds the city, somehow giving an ambiance of going back through time…Vigan in a calesa tour.

Plaza Salcedo & Plaza Burgos: Starting Lap

We’ve started the day at Plaza Salcedo, the largest plaza in town. (See related article of Plaza Salcedo) I’ve appreciated the beauty of the heart of Vigan’s power and urbanity. Plaza Salcedo has a wide plaza with a lagoon. Surrounding it is: the provincial capitol, the city hall, and the cathedral, Plaza Maestro shopping arcade and One Mart. Like every Philippine town, the plaza is the most important place during the Spanish colonial era.

Plaza Salcedo, Vigan, Ilocos Sur

On the other hand, Plaza Burgos is located on the southern side of the Cathedral and north of the Vigan Heritage Village of Calle Crisologo. It’s smaller yet it’s a venue for socio-civic activities. It is also here were you can find tourist calesas or horse-drawn carriages. And guess what, the cucheros or calesa-drivers are honest (and I like it!). No hidden fees, they’ll say the price of half-a-day tour around downtown Vigan straightforward. And guess what, its only P250 for the 2 hour trip (8am to 10am)! Incredibly cheaper than their Manila counterparts! And they’re friendly too. Nasingpet ti cucheros!

Along the way to Burnayan

Up ahead, Padre Burgos Museum

Vigan is like just any other Philippine city beyond its heritage charm. I really love the laidback atmosphere as we passed by the Capitolio and through Padre Burgos’s old house. In fairness for Vigan, despite the encroachment of modernity, calesas are still part of the public mode of transportation although they cater more to tourist nowadays. Bigueños on the other hand use tricycles or walking. The streets are narrow, a sign of being an old city planned during the time of the Spanish colonial era.

Burnayan

The burnayan or pottery place is a one stop shop for pottery and any souvenirs from Vigan. It is located at the corner of Liberation Boulevard and Gomez Street.

Burnays of Vigan

Burnay – Ilocano for pot(s). Vigan’s own pot and clay jars…big clay jars I mean. Creating one takes time and skill…with earth forged with water and hardened by fire. It is a distinct mark of the Bigueos.

Liberation Boulevard

Quite a unique name though. This boulevard runs through east to west. It is one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares. It connects the commercial district at Quezon Avenue, the city’s public market, the old cemetery, Vigan Heritage village in Calle Crisologo and the residential areas. A number of bus stations such as Domimion, Partas and Farias pass by this street. This boulevard is usually packed with tricycles, cars and calesas. This is the only area in Vigan where you could experience that traffic congestion that only big cities offer.

Traffic congestion near Vigan Public Market

One landmark in this boulevard though is the old cemetery of Vigan locally called as Bassit Cemetery and the capilla/camposanto. The old graveyard site, along with its baroque chapel, still functions as one of Bigueos’ resting place. The camposanto is whitewashed and the graveyard is still surrounded by its Spanish colonial stone fences. It’s giving a taste of what Philippines were a century ago.

Cemetery Chapel of Bassit (Simbaan a Bassit), Vigan City

Vigan City Public Market / Tiendahan

Locally called “Tiendahan,” this is Vigan’s central public market. This is where you can virtually buy almost any delicacy that Ilocanos can offer. We bought our bagnet here (dried pork deep fried) as well as the sukang Iloko (Ilocano rice vinegar).

Vigan City Public Market

Museo Crisologo

We’re on our way to Calle Crisologo. But before that street, we passed by another Crisologo place in Vigan…which is just along Liberation Boulevard. The ancestral house of the powerful Crisologo clan was turned into a museum. The house, home of solon Floro Crisologo, features the family’s photos, memorabilia and the display on his assassination in 1970s by unknown gunmen. Floro was one of those who worked towards enacting the Tobacco Law (Ilocos’s famed cash crop is tobacco) and the establishment of SSS or Social Security System in the Philippines.

Outside Museo Crisologo

After that brief visit in one of the houses of Vigan’s prominent families, we’re on our way to Calle Crisologo…the climax of the calesa trip at Vigan.

And…it’s just only past ten in the morning! I just love the crisp Ilokano weather!

Wen Manong! Speaketh and ye shall receiveth bargaineth!

Our mamang cuchero in Vigan

Looking for bargain in Ilocos? I know Ilocano is one of the most difficult languages that I have to learn (despite that my lineage is also of Ilocano blood…mom’s Ilocana) but just only say these words and your wallet’s wounds shall be healed:

Buy – Gumatang.

How much is it? – Mano daytoy?

Can you lower the price? Mabalin nga ilaklakam basit ti presyo na manang/manong/adding? (manong, manang or adding refers to the person).

Cheap – Nalaka.

Expensive – Nagngina met.

Thanks – Agyamanak; Thank you very much – agyamanak unay.

I hope these words can bring you bargain souvenirs.

More photos here of Museo Crisologo Inside:

And through the streets of Vigan:

And the Calesa Route that we took a year ago:


View Vigan Calesa Route in a larger map