A century and 12 years later, the Republic of the Philippines celebrated its freedom from the Spanish Empire with a float, performance and parade gala at the Quirino Grandstand in Luneta, Manila. Since this is the last year of the outgoing president Gloria Arroyo, the government allotted PhP10 million for the whole programme. The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (Yes, another name change. It was National Historical Institute) was the main organizer of the programme “Kalayaan 2010″ (Freedom 2010). I wasn’t able to see the traditional flag raising at Aguinaldo’s House at Kawit (its too early! Good luck at baka trapik sa Binakayan galing dito sa Imus!) so I went to Luneta that afternoon for the civic and military parade.

Dinagyang of Iloilo performing at Independence Day rites

As usual, Quirino Grandstand has been the venue of such parades in history. Americans did it here. Luneta is one big park comparable to Washington DC’s “The Mall.” In any case, Roxas Boulevard was full of “MIUs” or Men In Uniform (police, military, pulis oyster) and looks like the military parade has been finished. Oh well, there is something left to watch anyway.

Finalé

To my surprise, Iloilo’s Dinagyang Festival and Candaba Pampanga’s Ibun-Ebun Festival performers were there. However, there is something that lacks on their performance…or maybe there is something about in numbers. For the former alone, they didn’t sent the whole battalion that I used to see in their performances–that’s about near 200.

MIUs...Men In Uniform

Anyway, “Kalayaan 2010″ was said to be controversial…a way to glorify Gloria’s legacy. However, the organizers defended that it is about overcoming challenges and the legacy that the outgoing administration left for the progress of the Philippines. Whether politicised or not, its obvious that it presents the accomplishments of the Arroyo administration in almost a decade rule in the Philippines. Its like watching May Day parade minus the fanfare and uhm…crowd cheering for the greatness of the nation…or in their words, “Beat the Odds.”

Rizal Monument

However, I still can’t stop wondering, why are Filipinos at Quirino Grandstand (those ordinary ones) are just…don’t care. It’s like just another ho-hum programme. Although I love the performances and even the theme song, its just that there is something lacking in the hearts and minds of the Filipinos there. Are we taking Independence Day for granted?

Even the date itself is also mired with controversy. Even though if we freed ourselves from Spain as declared in Kawit on June 12, 1898, it wasn’t however recognized by any nation in the world–and bitterly, we were colonized once more, by the “benevolent Yankees.”

Sorbetes anyone?

The program itself really is to celebrate our liberation from oppression yet how come there is more spirit to town fiestas and big city fiestas than this sacred national holiday? I ask myself, could it be because of history or confused identity?

Anyway, after Gloria was “glorified,” we went strolling at Luneta until the time that the fireworks lit up the twilight sky. In a way, I celebrate the day of our liberty. However I am to ask, are we really free?

More photos here:

Rizal Park is located:

View Luneta in a larger map

Arroyo Fountain, the logo for Panubli-on

After several years of dormancy, Panubli-on: The Iloilo Heritage Blog, will come back. To bring Iloilo’s rich cultural heritage and history into the cyberspace. Sharing the legacy of Iloilo’s glorious past and for a brighter future. Soon, we’ll be adding up articles, activities and a whole lot more. For now, a bit of tweaking in the blog is needed.

To Lucban!

Well, I guess I was excited back then. It was my first time going to Lucban for Pahiyas Festival. The feast that I could only see on telly or on books. I’ve seen Sinulog, Dinagyang and Masskara for countless times already but this crowning jewel of Quezon Province’s feasts is something that I would look forward into. Such colourful and attractive feast has made me like a bee, attracted to the colour of the kipings and revelry. It was my first time going there and I’ll be commuting. May 15 is a notorious date to any commuter or motorist going south, as horrific stories of traffic jams linger. But I dared!

Which is which?

I called in the Quezon Provincial Tourism Office and sought advise on what’s the best route going to Lucban. My friends from Quezon and the tourism people have a unanimous answer: Go Laguna-Pagsanjan instead!

Here’s why:

The Notorious Traffic at Lucban

1. We all know that Lucban is in Quezon Province and the main route is through Maharlika Highway which passes through San Pablo City in Laguna and towns of Tiaong, Sariyaya, Candelaria and of course Lucena City, the kabisera. Well, they’ve warned me of the infamous traffic that said to have spanned all the way to Laguna (San Pablo). Reason: Tiaong and Sariyaya have their own version of Pahiyas fiesta. Expect traffic that may last for hours for the whole day. Commuters and motorists are advised to avoid the Maharlika Highway route unless visiting the affected towns or necessary. Much better if mapa-aga na lang kayo pumunta ng Bicol o Lucena.
2. The Laguna Route, which passes by Santa Cruz and Pagsanjan, is the easiest and fastest way to go to Lucban. Besides that there are no feasts in this side, the distance to Manila is much closer. It only takes an hour or less to travel by jeepney from Santa Cruz to Pagsanjan.

So obviously we went on the easier one.

A long and winding road to Pahiyas

Bus Arriving at Santa Cruz Laguna

Travel Log:

• 15 May 2010 | 02:30AM – My friend and I arrived at the Green Star bus terminal at Taft Avenue corner Buendia in Pasay City. It was too early. The guard told us that the first trip leaves the terminal by 3:30AM. So we went to KFC and have our late midnight snack/early breakfast.

Note: There are several bus companies that serve Manila-Santa Cruz route: Green Star (Pasay City terminal/Aircon bus), HM Transport (Cubao Bus Terminal/Aircon bus) and Calamba Megatrans (Alabang Bus Terminal/Ordinary/Non-Air Conditioned bus).

• 15 May 2010 | 03:00AM – The bus is parked and calling in for passengers. Good! We sat comfortably.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:15AM – Whoa! Was there a group booking. A bunch of excursionists went into the bus…At this rate, we’ll be leaving early! The bus is almost full…5 minutes later, the last seat was occupied.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:30AM – We left Pasay and bound for Santa Cruz
• 15 May 2010 | 03:45AM – We have encountered traffic somewhere between Bicutan and Sucat. Skyway construction on-going. We were stuck in the traffic for 30 minutes…ang aga naman ng trapik sa SLEX!
• 15 May 2010 | 04:20AM – We finally made it out of the traffic but saw this huge fire engulfing some houses in Muntinlupa. Only later to find out that it was one of the worst fire disasters in Muntinlupa City.
• 15 May 2010 | 05:00AM – Finally, we reached Calamba City. Ang aga ng trapik dito! The narrow roads and on-going developments (there is a SM mall being constructed near the public market. Good luck for the traffic though).
• 15 May 2010 | 05:30AM – We were in College, Laguna (UPLB junction)
• 15 May 2010 | 05:45AM – We passed by the town of Pila. For the first time, I saw the old houses and heritage buildings in this town. I’m planning to go back here sometime soon.
• 15 May 2010 | 06:15AM – Finally, we reached Santa Cruz. We have to take a ride through a jeepney (a big one) to Lucban. At pila ng bigas ang scenario! The bus stops over at the junction where Lucban-bound jeepneys are parked. Just tell the conductor to advise you to bring you to the jeepney terminal. Most likely, the bus conductor would mention it anyway.

Jeepney bound for Lucban

And those who dared! I wish I was there, hehe!

• 15 May 2010 | 06:20AM – We left Santa Cruz and passed by Pagsanjan. Off we go up in the mountains between Laguna and Quezon Provinces.

Pagsanjan Gate

The Long and Winding Road from Pagsanjan to Lucban

Passing by Pagsanjan Church

• >> Note: Nakakatakot ang daanan! The jeepney was full to the brim, and we have people on the rooftop! The curves were sharp and ravine is just beyond the road gutter!Yet, fear was replaced with appreciation of nature and the sun rising in the east. The air was cool and crisp. May nagpa-andar ba ng aircon? The cool air would remain all the way to Lucban for the rest of the day! Sarap naman! Refreshing!
• 15 May 2010 | 06:40AM – Passed by the town of Cavinti in Laguna

Luisiana Plaza

• 15 May 2010 | 06:50AM – Passed by the town of Luisiana in Laguna (take note of the pronunciation: “Luwisyana”…you might thought its the State of Louisiana in US).

Inside the jeepney

• 15 May 2010 | 07:00AM – Crossed the border of Quezon and Laguna! Yehey! And Mount Banahaw welcomes us!

Bawal na ang Jeepney sa loob ng bayan ng Lucban! Tricycles line up for passengers bound for Lucban's town proper

• 15 May 2010 | 07:15AM – Junction Lucban. Jeepneys are not allowed to enter the town proper. Nagsisimula na! So we rode a tricycle that brought us all the way to San Luis Obispo Parish Church (or Lucban Church). We were just in time for the first activity of the day: The religious procession!

Procession of San Isidro Labrador at Lucban

Its just the start of my Pahiyas de Lucban experience…something that I wouldn’t forget! Mga wala kaming tulog pero nagsisimula pa lang ang araw namin.

Transportation fare:

Okay, for those budget-conscious or just plain cheap, here are the fares:

• Pasay City to Santa Cruz, Laguna (Air-conditioned bus) – PhP149.00 (US$3.00)
• Santa Cruz, Laguna to Lucban, Quezon (jeepney) – PhP45.00 (US$1.00)

More photos here:

San Joaquin Church Rendicion d' Tetuan

Last week, we were in Batangas for a visita iglesia in Taal’s prominent religious structures—the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours and Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine. Today, we fly all the way to the Visayas to visit Iloilo. Our first stop would go all the way to the southernmost town of the province, San Joaquin. This town is known to be one of the landing sites of the mythical Ten Bornean Datus. However, the crowning jewel of this southern town would be its 19^th century church and its cemetery. The church however tells the story of the San Joaquin’s history, carved in stone.

San Joaquin Church is located a few metres away from the highway. It’s situated on an elevated hill near the coast. It’s pretty good location for a church. This greyish-white church was constructed under the supervision of the Spanish priest Tomas Santaren, together with Spanish and Mexican artists. It was built in 1859. Made with coral stone or limestone, egg whites, blood, sweat and tears by our ancestors, this church became a fort when the Moro raiders invade the southern Panay coast. According to Funtecha, the church became an evacuation centre during the Japanese occupation. However, Col. Macario Peralta, leader of the guerrilla resistance in Panay, ordered the church and the rest of the town to be burned to the ground in 1943 (talk about the burning culture). In 1948, a powerful earthquake toppled down the old belfry—yup, the same tremor that destroyed Jaro’s belfry and the magnificent old Oton Church!  Good thing though, the church facade remained intact. Later on, in 1974, it was declared as a national historical site by the National Historical Institute.

San Joaquin Church

Although architecturally baroque, the church has its own crown jewel—the Rendicion d’Tetuan stone relief (The Surrender of Tetouan) carved in its pediment. This obra maestra is one of its kind in Western Visayas, and perhaps the whole country, since this is one of the most militaristic motifs in any religious structure in the country.

The Agustinian Seal in San Joaquin Church

Depicting the Battle of Tetuan in 1860, the relief features Spanish forces defeating the Moorish forces in the siege of Tetuan—which resulted Spanish victory. The medieval town is shown on the upper part of the pediment while the Spanish forces moved in towards Tetuan. Horses, men with guns and a medieval city dominate the pediment. However, the lush tropical fauna was incorporated in the relief. The legendary Santiago Matamoros was said to have been included in the carvings. On top of the pediment, instead of a cross, a carving of Nuestra Señora de Angustias was installed.

The legendary Santiago de Matamoros?

Nuestra Señora de las Angustias at the top of the pediment of San Joaquin Church

The battle somehow reflects the Moro-Moro thinking during the Spanish colonial era in the Visayas, given that the Visayans were frequently raided by the Moros of Mindanao during three centuries that the Philippines was under the rule of the Cross and the Sword. Perhaps, it gave San Joaquinhons some boost in their morale during those times–a manifestation that San Joaquinhon Christians see their victory over the marauding Moros back then.

San Joaquin Church

The San Joaquin Church is a testament of the way our ancestors lived during the Spanish colonial rule. Behind the beautiful stone carvings of the church, lie the stories of the San Joaquinhons’ struggles, faith and victories.

More photos here:

Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives

Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

In observance of the Holy Week, HabagatCentral.com would embark on a journey similar to the Filipino tradition during these reflective times. With seven churches visited within the past three weeks in Batangas and Iloilo, tara na at bumisita tayo sa mga simbahan. More than just sites of Filipino religiosity, but also a mirror of the richness of Filipino culture and heritage. Our first stop: Batangas!

It was one hot summer Sunday when my family and I went on to Batangas. Just for a change of environment, especially church days, we went off to Taal. I’ve been here several times but I wanted to bring my family to this famed heritage village. Instead of heading to Pink Sisters in Tagaytay, we decided to go to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay—believed to be the patroness of the Batanguñeos.

Caysasay Belfry

The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay is found besides Pansipit River, just at the foot of the hillside town proper of Taal. The Shrine was believed to be where the image of the Virgin Mary was found amongst the casay-casay or kingfishers, sitting on a sampaguita bush.

The Legend of Juan Maningcad and The Blessed Virgin Mural

According to a legend, in 1603 at the town of Taal, a fisherman named Juan Maningcad found a six-inch image of Our Lady of Caysasay grabbed by his fishing net. Awe-stricken by its aura and presence, Maningcad began to praise the image and returned it home. Having learned the account, the priest of the town went to Maningcad’s house and requested that the image be venerated and celebrated a feast. From then on, under the guardianship of Madam Maria Espiritu, the image frequently disappeared. In 1611, the “Lady” was found on top of a sampaguita bush surrounded by kingfisher birds. Also, there were recorded miraculous appearances by the Lady and has done miraculous things. The people believed that the Lady would like to have her shrine built in the place where she was found, therefore the construction of the Shrine.

Ang Birhen ng Caysasay

The news spread like wildfire, first within Batangas, then beyond.

Inside the "pyramidical dome" of Caysasay Shrine

Up to this day, Batangueno Catholics go here and pay homage to the image of Caysasay. Believed to be miraculous, the image is located at the retablo in the church. Pilgrims have the chance to touch the image’s hair by going to the stairs behind the shrine.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Stairway

I have been here before, passing through Taal town proper then down to the grand staircase linking the uphill poblacion to Caysasay Shrine. Built during the Spanish colonial era, the grand stairway of San Lorenzo Ruiz is one major pedestrian link from the Basilica to the Shrine. Good exercise area too!

Our Lady of Caysasay Seal at the pediment of the shrine

Anyway, while I was taking a photo of candles at the front of the shrine, a local approached me and asked “Nakapunta na ba po kayo sa may balon?” I said, I haven’t. She replied, “dun po kasi huling nakita ang Mahal na Birhen, sana po pumunta po kayo din doon.” I wish I had the luxury of time–the Santa Lucia Wells, as they say, is worth exploring.

Red candles with a human figure

Something tells me that I’ll be returning in this shrine over and over again. Although small as compared to the Basilica just a few metres away, it still maintains its charm to be one of Batangas’s most significant religious places.

Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine Retablo

Next stop: That grand Basilica uphill! Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours–said to be the largest of its kind in Asia!

Inside The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

More photos of Caysasay, Basilica, Batangas and more here:

Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


View Larger Map

It was almost 11AM when we left Luneta for Intramuros as we continue our walk in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps. Sure enough, Intramuros is just a walk away from the park…but beware of crossing Padre Burgos Street though…big trucks and cars rush over the road…just wait for the pedestrian crossing light to turn green, ok? In anyways, it was just a short walk entering Puerta Real and Revellin de Real de Bagumbayan…the Royal Gates of the medieval Manila that was.

Intramuros in a glimpse was THE Manila of the Spanish colonial era. The Spaniards live here amidst the protection of its walls and fully-armed cannoned baluartes from the foreigners or extranjeros such as piratas, Moros, Briton, Neerlandes, Portugues and most especially Chinos infiel. Built from Rajah Matanda’s old wooden palisade community called Maynilad, the settlement grew to be the colony’s center of governance. It survived all the way until World War II when it was heavily damaged during “The Liberation” in 1945 which was also the venue for hundreds of thousands slain by the Japanese imperial troops in the wake of the American forces “liberating” Manila. Three decades later, it was restored and now managed by the Intramuros Administration under the Office of the Philippine President.

Puerta Real de Intramuros

Puerta Real

Back to the journey, Puerta Real is the southern gate of the walled city of Manila. PLMayers, tourists and ordinary Pinoys pass by this gate frequently, but going to Intramuros was never easy for any extranjero of the past. One has to pass the mosquito-infested moat that surrounds the walled city which has been filled up and turned into a golf course. The puerta is also protected by the Revellin Real de Bagumbayan, another defense fortification for the walled city…talk about medieval ages, Manila was then like those of the medieval walled European cities way back then…proyectado por las conquistadores espaoles. The revellin today is more like a garden and a mini activity venue…but inside Puerta Real, there are relics and tombstones from the old walled city…creepy huh?

When you enter Puerta Real, Calle General Luna or known as Calle Real during the Spanish era, was the main road of Intramuros. Most of the important edifices of governance and commerce in the colony can be found along the road. It leads the Palacio del Gobernador, Iglesia de San Agustin and Catedral de Manila to the outside world. We head on towards Fort Santiago when we decided to take a visit on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site located at the heart of Philippines’s capital.

Iglesia y Mueso de San Agustin: One of Foundations of Catholic faith in Manila

The Church of San Agustin is said to be one of the oldest stone edifices in Manila. Completed in 1607, the present structure is the third generation church, which was established by the Agustinian friars in 1571…from nipa and bamboo to wood and to stone. Aside from being one of the oldest, it is also one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in the Philippines which was declared in 1993.

San Agustin Church

The church has been a silent witness of changes in history…from earthquakes, foreign invasions, typhoons, revolution to the atrocities of war and change of government.

The church’s architecture is of baroque with an orange-yellow palitada covering its exterior walls and façade. Two Chinese foo dogs (or lions I guess) stand guard the church plaza entrance and church entrance. Perhaps it is a gift of the Chinese coverts to Catholicism to the friars. Although it lost its northern bell tower during an earthquake in the 19^th century and very simple in its design, when you come inside…the trompe-l’oeil in the ceiling would give you a gasp…as if they are real carvings but…they are paintings! Talk about IMAX and 3D glasses, the painters who made the ceiling décor sure has the vision to make it 3D! Aside from it, the interior looks like a grand church in Europe.

A lot of people don’t know that the tomb of the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi can be found just beside the main altar of the church…I mean a room just beside the main altar. Aside from it, it has been the place where the the Spanish government’s preparation for surrender to the Americans in 1898. Yet the most memorable could’ve been during World War 2, when the Japanese used this as a garrison and a concentration camp…and many of Intramuros’ citizens were held hostage here which a lot of them would never see the free sun again.

San Agustin Museum Hallway...You can take pictures here but not in the exhibition room

The museum and convent is located just beside the church. Entrance fee for adults here is PhP70.00 (US$1.50) and has a good collection of paintings and antique religious artifacts from different churches of the country. You can also access the crypt within its premises. The museum itself is open from 9AM to 5pm with a lunch break at 12PM to 1PM daily.

Foo Dogs/Lions guarding the gate of San Agustin Church

By the way, they do allow photos within the musuem EXCEPT EXHIBITION AREAS! Huwag na po sanang pasaway ang iba!

And as we leave San Agustin Church, we went on towards Plaza Roma, the center of power in Spanish colonial Philippines.

Plaza Mayor: Center of Power

Plaza Roma Manila. Click the Photo to view larger picture

I’ve mentioned earlier that plazas are heart and soul of every Philippine ciudad, pueblo or Spanish-governed settlement during the three centuries of rule of the Spaniards. In Manila perhaps, Plaza Roma or Plaza Mayor as it was called back then, was the main square of the colony. If you ask me, probably this was the equivalent of Mexico’s Zocalo back then. You have the seat of ecclesiastical power, colonial government power and city’s local government in just one area! The plaza was the site of the bull fights and other public activities until it became a green park sometime in the 18^th century according to Intramuros Administration. In its center is the bronze statue of Rey Carlos IV de Espana, erected in 1824. A dedication to the king sent in the package of smallpox vaccine in the Philippines.

Surrounding the Plaza Mayor are the following:

• Manila Cathedral – also called as Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepcion, it is the symbol of ecclesiastical power of Catholic faith in Spanish colonial Manila and the Philippines. First built as a bamboo and nipa church in 1581, the one that you see now is the sixth incarnation (constructed in the 1950s) of those previous cathedrals that were built and was toppled down by fires, typhoons, earthquakes and bombardment. In 1981, the cathedral became a basilica minore as approved by Pope John Paul II. The cathedral is of neo-Romanesque in architecture, with wide-arched doorways and a rose window in its façade. It’s belfry is separated from the main church body. It is also here were Archbishops of Manila is traditionally lie in state…but former presidents Carlos Garcia and Corazon Aquino were also interred and had their requiem mass held.

Manila Cathedral

• Palacio del Gobernador Building – To your right when you’re facing the cathedral would be the Palacio del Gobernador…nope, don’t expect skyscrapers during Rizal’s time. That building is just recent. Remember that Intramuros was heavily bombarded and only San Agustin Church remained standing. The site has also been abandoned in favor of the summer palace of Malacañang after the original palacio was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1863 and was laid to ruins for more than a century until 1970s. It was once the residence of the gobernador-general of colonial Philippines from 1645 to 1863. It is also here where the Real Audiencia or the Supreme Court of the islands was located back then. Today, it is known to be the headquarters of the Commission on Elections or we Pinoys know as COMELEC. The current building sure houses life and death of Philippine democracy through elections.

New Palacio del Gobenador Building

• Ayuntamiento site – It’s just a big parking lot with a Spanish colonial era inspired walls surrounding it to cheaply imitate the ruins of once the city hall of Manila. Yup, ladies and gentlemen, this site was once the seat of local power and authority of the city of Manila through its Cabildo de Manila (Council of Manila). During the American colonial era, it became the seat of colonial power from military to civil government. Supreme Court and Bureau of Justice were also located here until it suffered bombardment during the “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. Unlike his neighbors, the ayuntamiento never rose again from its ruins…and is now…a glorified parking lot. It’s such a loss indeed.

And it’s 12 noon…we’re searching where to eat lunch. But that was December 30, starting of one of the longest holidays in the country and most restaurants in Intramuros (fastfood and cheap ones that is) were closed. And because of the search, we’ve managed to encounter another important civil building before ending up in SM City Manila for lunch because there was no rice at the nearest Chowking (the only open fast food chain at that time).

Aduana

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Intendiencia/Aduana de Manila ruins

This was the bagsakan of imported goods or we all know as “Customs.” Built in 1823, it served as the Customs house of Manila. During those times folks, the port was still beside Pasig River, not North and South Harbour. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1863 but was restored and in turn, would be the grandfather of Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas. Check your 100 peso bills please and look for that building on the upper left of the bill…on the upper left of the bill…yung picture na isiningit sa itaas ng litrato ng Bangko Sentral ngayon…that was the Intendencia back then in its glorious days…the casa de moneda (mint), office of the Treasury. The edifice though did somehow managed the bombardment of Manila in 1945 and resumed to be the office of BSP, COMELEC and Bureau of Treasury until it was razed by fire in 1979. Today, there is a big sign stating that it would be the future site of the National Archives (which is occupying some space of the National Library as of now)…but Intramuros Administration said that…restoration for the Intendencia was in 1998…oh, okay para din palang ilan sa mga di natapos na proyekto ng gobyerno dahil wala nang badyet. It’s more than a decade and this magnificent ruin still stands as a ruin. I wonder when they will resume the restoration?

It’s after lunch…as I’ve said, no rice at Chowking…so of we go to SM City Manila to find some grub. Later that afternoon, we’ll be back in our ultimate destination in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps…his incarceration at Fort Santiago.

For now, chow time!

More photos here:

Map of the Route:


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Bacolor Church at Simbang Gabi, Pampanga, Philippines

It was a surprise visit, really. I never knew that we would go back to Bagong Pag-asa! It was just last Palm Sunday when we visited Bacolor, Pampanga for my visita iglesia. It’s the usual sightseeing and appreciation of our ancestor’s legacy to our country. This was no ordinary visita iglesia this time. For the longest time, I would like to see and listen to different misas del gallo in different provinces of the country…and Bro heard my prayers. For the first time, I’ve heard mass in vernacular…Kapampangan!

It was 4AM and our van driver was searching for the venue of the activity of Kraft Eden Cheese on a Simbang Gabi in a church in Pampanga. Like the three kings, we seeketh the venue like searching for Christ until the name “San Guillermo Church” was mentioned. It was music to my ears; I’ll be coming back where Santino is!

The cool breeze of Christmas dawn embraced the weary travelers and welcomed by the lights and the smell of incense. For me, it was heaven…savouring the smell of incense once more…after three years!

The Church of San Guillermo (or Saint William Parish Church) of Bacolor was of baroque feature built by the Agustinian friars sometime in the Spanish colonial era (More details here) Half-buried in lahar, it is a testament of resiliency of the Kapampangans to face the trials of living after Apo Namalyari unleashed his fury over the Philippines through Pinatubo. 18 years later, the belfry, the façade, the church, the old convent and the sementeryo where “Bro”was…half buried yet with their ravaged beauty held high above the new ground.

There were no Latin songs in the simbang gabi in Bacolor like the way we used to in Iloilo. Yet one thing that caught my attention was the heavy usage of Kapampangan language in the mass. Again, it was music to my ears and really made me listen even though I only understand “mangan tamu,” “mekeni,” and “kaluguran.” I think given if I was assigned in Pampanga, I might speak and understand the language well…how I wish I could be as polyglot as Rizal.

Here’s a glimpse of Kapampangan Gospel reading according to the book of Luke:

Before the priest gave his final blessing, the Bacolor youth presented their cultural performance of traditional Filipino dances. Celebrating the last day of misa del gallo and the day before Christmas. It was a joyous sight!

Facade of Bacolor Church, Pampanga, Philippines

And as fireworks explode up in the skies of Bacolor and the bells o’ringing…the sunrise greeted the people who attended the mass. It was a rare treat for me to hear Kapampangan in such way it was eloquently said and used. Truly, the beauty of our Filipino culture and the spirit of Christmas brought cheers and hope to all.

Merry Christmas to all!

Here’s the map of Bacolor Church, Pampanga courtesy of Google Maps:


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Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Philippines

You haven’t been to Vigan if you didn’t set on foot at Calle Crisologo. This is the heart and soul of Spanish colonial Philippine village of Vigan. This brought the city to its prestige as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Indeed, Calle Crisologo, or sometimes called Vigan Heritage Village, transports people back into time when the Philippines was under Madre España.

The streetscape, spanning from Burgos Plaza towards Liberation Avenue, is lined with old bahay-na-bato houses, mostly made of brick or stone at the ground floor and hard wood on its second floor. The complete row of aged ancestral houses survived the onslaught of Mother Nature, wars and Father Time himself. Most of the roofs of the houses though are made of galvanized iron, only a few still use tejas or tiles.

The street is paved in cobblestone, much like any old urban cores during the Spanish colonial era. It is a vestige of colonial Europe in Asian setting.

A Calle Crisologo antique shop

As mentioned earlier, the bahay-na-bato houses are made of stone, brick or masonry in the first level while the second floor, made of hard wood. Houses back then were like this since they use the first floor, not as a residential floor, but as a bodega and garaje for their calesas. Some make their ground level floors as commercial shops. The second floor on the other hand was used as the residential area. It seems to have brought the bahay kubo aspect.

Hero, the calesa horse, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Our calesa stopped here. I was amazed with the number of heritage houses…the streetscape…everything! As if I was brought back a hundred years ago…minus the tourists though.

House under renovation, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Today, Calle Crisologo is frequently used as a shooting location for local films and TV shows. I saw this at Marilou Diaz-Abaya’s film “Jose Rizal” and CCP’s “Noli me Tangere” series. The well-preserved streetscape and houses has brought tourists by the thousands every year. Houses were turned into antique shops or commercial establishments. It gave jobs to local Bigueños and Ilocanos and has boosted Vigan’s economy and commerce. Although the presence of tourists has brought “artificiality” in the area, this proves that old houses can be used for today’s benefit. Not only it teaches us our history and heritage as a Filipino nation, but on how we can create a sustainable living with our heritage held high!

It’s 11:30AM. Time to hit the road again and go back to Manila…(passing by La Union province though for a brief visit). We bid our cucheros farewell at Burgos Plaza, paid them and thanked them for their service. I shall return! Veni Vidi Vicci Vigan!

More photos of Calle Crisologo here:

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