Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery, Laguna

As we ended our Laguna Lake Loop tour, we reached the rustic yet remarkable town of Nagcarlan. Much busier than Liliw perhaps, because it was 5PM and people are flocking the church for the afternoon mass. The air was cool and we had some sprinkles of mountain drizzle while the sun sets. The town of Nagcarlan is about 30 minutes away from San Pablo City in Laguna, the famed “City of Seven Lakes.” We visit two of its famed sites, the church and its underground cemetery.

Iglesia de San Bartolome

Now, this church certainly looks familiar. If you are a Vilmanian and perhaps a kapamilya fan, most likely you saw this church in Pablo S. Gomez’s “Kampanerang Kuba,” our country’s very own “Hunchback of Notre Dame.” The only difference was, its either Ate Vi or Anne Curtis who played a role…definitely female!

San Bartolome Church, Nagcarlan, Laguna

The church itself was established by the Franciscan friar Tomas de Miranda made of light materials in the 16th century. In 1752, a church of brick and stone was built yet it was partially damaged by fire in almost thirty years later. It was reconstructed and added its distinctive choirloft by Father Vicente Velloc. It was declared a historical site by the Philippine government (well, before it was a Commonwealth under Uncle Sam) in 1938.

Historical Marker of Nagcarlan Church

Baroque and grey is its main feature with hints of red bricks, unlike its Liliw counterpart which is covered by all bricks. The church convent is attached on its northern flanks and the belfry itself…which is a landmark in my opinion…with its ummm…peculiar red roof.

Nagcarlan Church Convent

While my companions were spread out taking photos of the church, I myself was satisfied with the facade and the ongoing mass. Oh by the way, did I mentioned Velloc earlier?

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan

I know Todos Los Santos was several days ago but hey, this cemetery is one true blue heritage landmark of the Tagalogs…and something unique.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Camposanto

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan was built under the supervision of none other than the Franciscan missionary Vicente Velloc in 1851. The same priest who expanded San Bartolome de Nagcarlan Church and convent. And during the Philippine Revolution, the leaders of the Laguna revolt secretly held meetings here…I mean below, not six feet under though.

Twilight is fast approaching and we were just in time to see Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery before going home. Unfortunately it wasn’t open. Hanggang gate lang kami but again, the sky gave us a beautiful painting with the old camposanto made of brick, stone and lime from the distance. The red brick aisle towards the camposanto (chapel) is surrounded by verdant grass not meant to be stepped upon. And the walls where the dead rests exudes creepiness…but again, mas marami daw multo sa simbahan kaysa sa sementeryo.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Gate

The cemetery itself sits beside the uphill climb of the national road going to San Pablo City, you wouldn’t miss it. Just take a jeepney ride from San Pablo City and you’ll surely pass by. For people bringing their cars, good luck because there are no parking spaces available except the road sides itself. And basically the underground cemetery is taken care of by the National Historical Institute and is open everyday…8am to 5pm, the usual government office work plus weekends.

Condo for the dead?, Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery | Photo by Christian Bederico

And a tip…here’s another peculiar rule: “Professional photography for commercial purposes is not allowed (people sometimes discriminate pro-photographers and dSLR camera users) BUT personal photos can be taken (and yes, the handy dandy point and shoot cameras are most welcome).” – Sounds familiar Angono?

Twilight in Nagcarlan | Photo by Christian Bederico

Anyway, our visita iglesia for that summer was over. And as we bid our paalam to Nagcarlan, the Santacruzan frenzy was over the air as we passed by the town of Rizal and its barangays full of marching ladies and gentlemen with lights on their hands…truly, the feast and the tradition still lingers in the Tagalog Republic of Laguna and Rizal…just a few miles away from cosmopolitan Manila. Again, I’ll come back…with a better camera in handy.

Thats us last summer. Me and my barkada in Nagcarlan Laguna!

Liliw Laguna's own kipings for Tsinelas Festival

Who would have thought that in the middle of vast coconut forest at the foothills of Mount Banahaw could you find a town full of people! Magdalena was laid back but the next town came into our surprise…it was busy and there are people everywhere. May pa-liga pa nga sa covered court nila nang dumating kami!

But anyway, this town is famed for being the footwear capital of Laguna, and perhaps can pose a challenge to Marikina’s shoe industry. However, it is the bakya and the tsinelas that made it very famous.

Liliw, like Magdalena, sits at the foothils of the ever holy Mount Banahaw. 17 kilometers from the cabisera of Laguna province which is Santa Cruz. It’s surprisingly cooler here though, thanks to the mountain. And like Magdalena, it is surrounded by verdant coconut trees and lush vegetation.

San Juan Bautista Parish Church, Liliw, Laguna | Photo by Jeffrey Garcia and Bernardo Arellano III

Now, what’s with Liliw? Again, the main attraction here may be the cold springs and that red church on the top of the hill, but you can buy bargain shoes and flip flops far affordable than those in the shopping centers of Metro Manila…and mind you, their quality is good as far as reviews that I’ve heard.

Liliw Church's retablo | Photo by Christian Bederico

San Juan de Bautista is their patron saint and the church was constructed starting 1605 when it was still under Nagcarlang (today’s Nagcarlan). It has been a survivor of an earthquake and fire in its history. Today, this imposing yet majestic structure guarding the tsinelas republic township is one of Laguna’s best preserved churches.

The footwear industry made Liliw famous and tourists and shoppers come in droves just to have a piece of this Laguna product. The Liliweños even celebrate their industry through “Liliw Gat Tayaw Festival.” Named after Gat Tayaw, believed to be the founder of the said town.

Tsinelas kiping of Liliw Laguna | Photo by Raphael Dorilag

Now, drive into their main street and you’ll see rows of shoes and slippers for sale. Now, that’s the main attraction. From the immortal tsinelas, to the classical bakya and to the useful sapatos…name it, and it’s there. Of course, if I have money by that time, I could’ve bought one for my mom.

Anyway, the clouds are covering the sun which is nearing twilight. Got one last visita iglesia for the Laguna de Bai loop…and it gave us a very dramatic vista for ending our trip…Nagcarlan Laguna.

For now Liliw, paalam! Nawa’y bumalik kami muli sa iyong bayan at makabili na ng tsinelas.

More photos of Laguna here:

By Christian Bederico:

By Raphael Dorilag:

HabagatCentral Photos:

Santa Maria Magdalena Church, Magdalena, Laguna

I would like to go to Laguna, the off-beaten track. Palagi na lang kasi sa highway kaya di masyadong maka-pasyal! I was thinking of going to Majayjay with its massive church…however it is very off the way and the sun is setting in few hours time. We’ve finally decided, from Pagsanjan all the way to Nagcarlan via Magdalena and Liliw then San Pablo then head home. We went far interior, into the foothils of the Holy Banahaw.

By the time we reached Magdalena, I was surprised by several billboards claiming its title: “Hollywood of the Philippines.” Really now? How come it became “Hollywood” in the middle of the coconut plantations? I was really clueless.

Yet upon arriving at the town’s church plaza and the municipal hall, I gasped and said, “Ah! Dito pala ang pinagshootingan nung mga pelikula ni FPJ at iba pa!” Indeed, it was a familiar sight and delight. No wonder this rustic town got its own exposure to stardom. At di na nya kinailangang pumasok sa “Bahay ni Kuya” o magpa-audition sa “Starstruck!” True enough, there’s a facility nearby that was donated by FPJ himself!

One of Philippine cinema’s favorite towns indeed!

Magdalena Church Interiors | Photo by Christian Benderico

Magdalena is located several kilometers away interior from Pagsanjan. Nestled at the foothills of Banahaw and covered with lush vegetation and coconut trees everywhere, this charming town has been one of Philippine cinema’s most favorite shooting locations. I saw numerous movies with the church and the municipal hall…mostly about a rustic town far from Manila or a town from the colonial periods. And so far, this was the largest plaza we have been through since we started our journey at Rizal Province.

Magdalena Church Belfry

The stone church, dedicated to the town’s patroness (and often the most controversial…paging Da Vinci Code) Santa Maria Magdalena, was built in 1821 to 1860’s from the services of the Magdale os. The tall church convent was finished later in the century. One interesting thing about the church though is that the blood stains of the revolutionary hero Emilio Jacinto can still be seen inside the church. He was injured and sought refuge inside the church during the 1896 Philippine Revolution.

Blood stain marker of Emilio Jacinto in Magdalena Church | Photo by Christian Benderico

Like any old Spanish colonial towns, the century-old municipio or the municipal hall sits on the other side of the plaza, in this case a bit north-east from the church. The red roof and the grand staircase leading to the terraced main hall of this petite yet charming edifice is a landmark on its own right…seeing that several times in the movies.

That familiar Municipio you always see on Philippine movies, Magdalena, Laguna

The plaza itself is charming enough that Sunday afternoon. Cool breeze coming from Banahaw was refreshing, and kids are playing and the friendly residents give their curious smile. Our stay was very short but I have the feeling that this town has a lot to offer other than it’s church, plaza, municipio, “Walk of Fame.” Like other towns that we’ve passed, I said, “I shall return!” (pasintabi kay MacArthur po)

Magdalena Plaza & Church | Photo by Christian Bederico

I could’ve got more photos of this directors’ favorite town…but anyway, the sun is setting. We’re off to Liliw…the so called “Bakya/Sandal Capital of the Philippines.”

More photos of Laguna here:

From Chris Bederico [xtian008.multiply.com]

Pagsanjan Church, Laguna (Photo by Jeffrey Garcia)

My camera’s dead…malfunctioning upon the time of our arrival at Pagsanjan, Laguna. It was disheartening for my aim was to take the photos of all the towns we pass by during our road trip. Alas, felt with heavy heart. But it’s a good thing my barkada would let me borrow their cameras and photos.

Okay, enough of sentiments. Lets not spoil our trip. Hehe!

Pagsanjan is in eastern Laguna. For the heritage buff, it’s Laguna’s answer to Taal, Batangas and Vigan, Ilocos Sur. For the majority of the Filipinos, it is where that famed Pagsanjan Falls are located (yet technically, like Angono Petroglyphs, its on another town). We had our short stop and parked just in front of the church. While my companions went around the town center and plaza taking pictures of the old heritage structures, I was left at the car, pondering on my malfunctioning camera…but luckily, my companions lend me their cameras for this.

Pueblo Central de Pagsanjan

A lot of us know that Pagsanjan is the home of the Ejercitos and of the Pagsanjan Falls that we see in post cards. A lot of dekada nobenta babies would recognize the place as Tabing Ilog’s location. Definitely, this town besides the river has the natural wonders and the heritage sites that it can boast. Unfortunately, Pagsanjan Falls would take a whole day excursion for us to explore it deep in the mountains.

On the other hand, the heritage houses, dating back from Spanish colonial all the way to American colonial still survives. Upon entering the town from Santa Cruz or Manila (from the west), you’ll be greeted by the Spanish-colonial stone arch. According to a legend, the townsfolk constructed this stone arch in gratitude of Virgen de Guadalupe who miraculously protected the town against the looters or tulisanes. Well, it stands as a monument to its rich glorious past.

While Calle Real is lined up by these old houses, the Church of Pagsanjan, dedicated to the town’s patroness. Although the current church is a reconstruction because the original was destroyed during the “Liberation” in 1945, and as the old people would say that it’s dome dominates its beauty, it is still a manifestation of their Catholic faith. First built under Franciscan friarAgustin de la Magdalena in 1688 and later built in stone and brick stone masonry, the dome was later added by Fray Joaquin Coria.

Of course, its already afternoon and we’re running out of time before the sun sets. We have to reach at least our ultimate destination for the roadtrip, Nagcarlan. I know, I’ll be back in this town, this time with a better camera…but for now, I won’t worry my life away. On to the next stop…”The Hollywood of Laguna…the town of Magdalena.”

Lake Caliraya, Laguna

Caliraya Lake in Laguna Province is a man-made reservoir or lake perched 1,200 feet above sea level in the Sierra Madre. Built to provide electricity to Manila and the surrounding areas during the American Colonial Era (1930′s) by US Army Engineer Major General Hugh J. Casey, it has become one of the most popular resort lakes near Metro Manila. Having a benign and cool climate, its a popular alternative to an already overcrowded summer getaways such as Tagaytay and Baguio. On the way up here gives a breathtaking panorama of the eastern fork of Laguna de Bai and Sierra Madre.

Panorama of Laguna de Bai from the foothills of Sierra Madre (Click the Photo to enlarge)

As seen from the distance, those big tubes from the side of Sierra Madre that descends all the way to Laguna de Bai, are for that man-made lake located across the towns of Lumban, Kalayaan and Cavinti in Eastern Laguna. Eventually, a popular belief though that this sucks up water from Laguna de Bai for power generation and vice-versa.

A Caliraya Resort

Even up today, it still serves its main purpose, although its beauty has attracted the crowd, nevertheless it has maintained its pristine touch despite the increasing onslaught of tourists making this as a great place windsurfing, camping, bass fishing and other recreational activities and relaxation.

Well, we just parked at a public parking and enjoyed a breeze after one hot afternoon. Fresh and cool air coming from the east really brings back the energy lost in the journey…before we knew it, its time to go.

Caliraya Lake

This was the last destination for my year-old Olympus Mu-800 digital camera before it went gaga and malfunctioned due to unknown reasons. But at least, she took greens and blues before eventually collapsing her sanity. Actually, we don’t have Caliraya Lake on our itinerary but since there is still the luxury of time, we went on.

Resorts in Lake Caliraya, Laguna:

There are several resorts in Lake Caliraya. Mostly it caters to mid and high-end tourists, but do check out Department of Tourism office at Manila or call Laguna Provincial Tourism Office at +63(49)808-0464 for more information.

Here are some of the resorts in Lake Caliraya, just click the titles for more information and contact numbers:

1. Calirana Resort – +63(2)726-1812; +63(2)416-4130; +63(2)416-4131
2. Caliraya Recreation Center – +63(2)632-1010 extension number 265, +63(2)638-0515
3. Lagos del Sol – +63(2)910-4203 up to 05
4. Caliraya Hilltop
5. Lake Caliraya Country Club

——————————————–

In case you didn’t know, Lake Caliraya is quite inaccessible to public transport except if you’ve negotiated to have a van or someone from Lumban town to take you to Lake Caliraya. If you have more information, feel free to add it up at the comments section. Thanks!

Santiago de Compostela Church, Paete, Laguna

Paete in Laguna is just a short 5-minute drive (or even a jeepney ride) from Pakil. Still within the local narrow winding road below the cliff. It’s somehow more bustling than Pakil on a high afternoon. Cool breeze still blows from the lake but the heat under the sun has somehow made it quite unbearable.

Paete is known to be the “Wood Carving Capital of the Philippines.” The tradition of pag-ukit dates back since time immemorial. Even the national hero, Jose Rizal, mentioned its works in one of his novels. The exquisite talent of the Paeteños have reached overseas with some of their works reportedly displayed and used in some countries such as the Vatican and United States. Even the name itself of the town, Paete, is believed to have come from the Tagalog word “paet” meaning chisel…obviously tool used for woodcarving of course, hehe!

The town’s center is a few meters away between the main town road and Manila East Road. Compact but bustling, the town center is reminiscent still of the reducciones or the plaza complex that the Spaniards imposed in establishing pueblos or townships to better administer the Indios of the past.

Paete Town Hall and Plaza

Along the way, there are some wood carver’s shops but most of them were closed. Probably because it was a Sunday afternoon. Upon reaching the plaza, the town hall and the old yellowish Spanish colonial church dominate the scene.

Santiago de Compostela Church

Paete Church from the Church Plaza

There was a mass being held at that time, so we didn’t have the luxury of going in or out or just taking photos. The facade though, still of baroque artistry, does have that “woodcarver’s touch in stone” as elaborate floral carvings dominate most. Floracious! Somehow reminiscent of baroque-rococo like that of Miag-ao though. And those spires on the top (called balustrades…please correct me if I’m wrong) of the pediment look like that of Chinese clouds.

And surrounded by floracious motif, is the seal of Santiago de Compostela, the town’s patron saint.

Floral motifs of Paete Church

The church is made of yellow stone and was constructed under the supervision of the Franciscan friars starting 1646 under Padre Andres de Puertellano. From then on, it has been devastated several times by earthquakes. The current church motifs were completed around 1840. And the church suffered major damages in 1884 and 1937. But like the Paeteño spirit, it survived and now a glorious manifestation of the talent and strength.

Paete Church and Santiago de Compostela Seal

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the luxury of time to explore more of Paete’s town center or poblacion in which wood carvers shops abound everywhere.

I’ll go back to Paete once more. To explore more of its hidden wealth.

Now driving, onwards to our next unexpected destination: Lago Caliraya!

More photos of Paete and Pakil here:

Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara and drying the rice grains at town plaza, Pakil, Laguna

It was an a hour drive crossing the verdant foothills of Sierra Madre from Pililia, Rizal to the first stop over in eastern Laguna, Pakil. We passed by the junction where the road leads to the Pacific shores of Quezon province, Mabitac, Siniloan and Pangil.

We turned left towards an old and narrow winding road towards Pakil.

I love the place and topography so much. This is the Laguna barely known or touched by tourists and mainstream urbanity. This is rustic Laguna. Peculiar though is the topography, green hills cascade steeply towards the shore of Laguna de Bai. And later we found out, we are at the pilgrimage center of Laguna, just past 12:30 in high noon.

Iglesia and Turumba

It was harvest time, people were drying the rice grains in the town plaza. It’s so laid back and the breeze is cool. First reaction is, gusto kong matulog sa ilalim ng puno sa may plaza! (I want to sleep in the shade at the plaza). Imposing from the town square is the Iglesia de San Pedro Alcantara, home of the famed Nuestra Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) which is so associated with the Pakileños tradition of “Turumba” feast.

Inside San Pedro Alcantara Church, Pakil, Laguna

The church, another manifestation of baroque architecture in the Philippines, gleams with yellowish colour and very charming. Founded by the Franciscanos (Franciscan Friars) under the priest Fernando Haro, the stone church and convent was constructed from 1732 to 1767. The Virgin of Turumba (La Nuestra Señora de Dolores) was enshrined here in 1788. After that, the church has undergone damages and restorations due to fires and earthquakes that burned and rattled the church. Today, it stands as a landmark of Pakil and the center of devotion to the Turumba.

Nuestra Señora de Turumba (Photo by Sidney Snoeck and Wikipedia)

Now, I’ve been mentioning Turumba for already several times here. I-eexplain ko. According to folklore in September 1788, some fishermen found the statue of the birhen at the shores of the lake. They couldn’t carry it but when they pulled it towards Pakil, the winds cooperated and reached the town. From then on, the Pakileños enshrined her in the church and devotion spread all over Laguna.

The Oil of the Virgin, Pakil, Laguna

Nobody knows where the term “turumba” came from but the song and the dancing with the so-called “Dancing Virgin” is still the main centerpiece of devotion in Laguna.

Convento de San Pedro Alcantara, Pakil, Laguna

Yet out of curiosity, I asked the locals at the plaza on how do they celebrate this feast? They said that they do it 7 times for one year with 9 days of Novena. Then when the feast comes, the birhen is processioned in the town proper with the song and brass bands in tune with the song:

Turumba, Turumba Maraingga
Matuwa tayo’t magsaya
Sumayaw ng Tu-Turumba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen!

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Matuwa tayo’t mag-aliw
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen, Sa Birhen!

Biyernes ng makita Ka
Linggo ng i-ahin Ka
Sumayaw ng Tu-Tuturmba
Puri sa Birhen Maria, Sa Birhen (2x)

Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba, Turumba sa Birhen
Turumba’y ating sayawin
Puri sa Mahal na Birhen
(Repeat over)

Some Youtube clips of the Turumba Festival of Pakil (by Kampanilya):

I have yet to see this seemingly Filipino folk Catholic practice. Somehow its reminiscent to that of Obando and Sinulog of Cebu. Worship in the act of dance and songs.

Pakil Church Facade

I will come back here, hopefully in the near future. Hoping I would witness the Turumba in this charming and laid back eastern Laguna town. I’ve seen only the glimpse of its religious-cultural aspect, I haven’t seen yet the famed heritage of Pakileños when it comes to music. Small town, lot of things to explore.

It’s time to move on…next stop, the famed neighboring chisel and wood carver’s town of Laguna.

Going Here:

There are no buses that ply from Santa Cruz (capital 0f Laguna) towards the eastern towns. Jeepneys do serve from that transit point towards the fronteir eastern towns of Mabitac, Famy & Siniloan. Ask a local about where can you ride a jeepney passing by Pakil town proper at the terminal.

More photos of Pakil and Paete Laguna here: