I was a bit irked earlier this morning when a media person interviewed a NAIA (Ninoy Aquino International Airport) official regarding the flight diversion that happened yesterday, after strong thunderstorms lashed Manila that led to zero visibility around the airport. Of course, I know the fact that ordinary people doesn’t understand the technicalities of airport operations…and so do I. I may not be an official or an expert in aircraft navigation nor a pilot myself, but somehow, I understand the consequences that NAIA faced yesterday. What irked me though was a seemingly sarcastic tone of “mauulit nanaman yan muli?” (“Will it ever repeat again?”). Of course it will! That is about mother nature and life and death! Its the standard operating procedure whenever Mother Nature has gone nuts! Safety over convenience!

The Filipino travelers and commuters alike already knew about the problem that NAIA has encountered in the past recent days. The VOR or VHF omnidirectional radio range is a navigational aid for the pilots for them to land the aircraft safely, especially during poor weather conditions, had broken down. I don’t like to sound techie here but this is one main goal of the said instrument. Of course, it is a critical instrument since landing, in my opinion (and based on my flight simulator experiences) has been one of the most risky, tricky and even dangerous phase in a flight of an aircraft. A lot of plane crashes in the past were due to pilot error or weather disturbance, and a big percentage of it was during approach. With this instrument, at least it would provide help for a safe landing.

Of course, given the bureaucracy that we have in this country, the facility has to endure the long periods of time…napaglulumaan na kumbaga. Given also the appropriations and the conspiracy of corruption, the multi-million dollar instrument, broke down. Of course, being a critical instrument in airport operations, it has to be replaced. But lo and behold the politics. Don’t tell me, we’re gonna get some another spanking from foreign aviation organisations?

Anyway, its a good thing they made a “first-aid” treatment by transferring the unused instrument from Subic Bay to Manila…but that too needs to be changed as soon as possible. And I hope Noynoy wouldn’t dilly-dally on this issue or its another blow in our “Philippine pride.” Worse, lives are at stake!

All right, to cut the story short, kahit anong moderno ng airport at kumpleto ang facilities at top of the class na mga air traffic controllers at piloto, kung Inang Kalikasan na ang nagbibigay ng kanyang banta’t galit, walang magagawa ang VOR-DME, ILS o kahit ano pa mang navigational aids sa airport! When the visibility is down to zero and the thunderstorm is great, there is a greater chance of having a fatal aircraft approach crash or crash landing. The possibility of microbursts or daluyong/squall is imminent and are avoided by aircraft worldwide. Ang daming bumagsak na eroplano nang dahil sa mabagsik na mukha ng isang thunderstorm na yan. Isa pa, kelangan din ng piloto kahit papaano ang tulong ng visual aids tulad ng ilaw…at dapat ding malinaw ito. Sa nasabi ko kanina, mahirap talaga ang landing, because it takes careful planning and estimating on how to safely land a plane safely. Its about the throttles, the flaps, the wind direction, the visual reference, the ailerons, the pilot, the flight attendants and most especially the lives of the passengers.

Yes, we all know about some dismal and anomalous things going on at the Philippines’ premiere gateway, but the situation yesterday was very different.

For those who felt inconvenience because of the diversion and was irked about it, I say…try to understand please. Buhay mo o ginhawa lamang? The pilot and the air traffic controller’s top priority has always been safety. Whatever technology that we have, we still cannot beat the fury of Mother Nature. The inconvenience of flight diversion and delay is a small price to pay for the safety of the passengers. Better live or have your lives being dramaticised on National Geographic’s “Air Crash Investigation.”

For some people who still view it as incompetence of NAIA–think again! Even the best airports in the world face shut down when the weather is awfully bad. Alam naman natin yun di ba? Its not about incompetence, politics or Category 2 rating of the Imperialist Yankees. Its about standard operating procedure for the safety of hundreds of lives flying over the air. So, even before the sarcasm, lets have a second look first. This time, please understand NAIA.

NAIA Terminal 3

A century and 12 years later, the Republic of the Philippines celebrated its freedom from the Spanish Empire with a float, performance and parade gala at the Quirino Grandstand in Luneta, Manila. Since this is the last year of the outgoing president Gloria Arroyo, the government allotted PhP10 million for the whole programme. The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (Yes, another name change. It was National Historical Institute) was the main organizer of the programme “Kalayaan 2010″ (Freedom 2010). I wasn’t able to see the traditional flag raising at Aguinaldo’s House at Kawit (its too early! Good luck at baka trapik sa Binakayan galing dito sa Imus!) so I went to Luneta that afternoon for the civic and military parade.

Dinagyang of Iloilo performing at Independence Day rites

As usual, Quirino Grandstand has been the venue of such parades in history. Americans did it here. Luneta is one big park comparable to Washington DC’s “The Mall.” In any case, Roxas Boulevard was full of “MIUs” or Men In Uniform (police, military, pulis oyster) and looks like the military parade has been finished. Oh well, there is something left to watch anyway.

Finalé

To my surprise, Iloilo’s Dinagyang Festival and Candaba Pampanga’s Ibun-Ebun Festival performers were there. However, there is something that lacks on their performance…or maybe there is something about in numbers. For the former alone, they didn’t sent the whole battalion that I used to see in their performances–that’s about near 200.

MIUs...Men In Uniform

Anyway, “Kalayaan 2010″ was said to be controversial…a way to glorify Gloria’s legacy. However, the organizers defended that it is about overcoming challenges and the legacy that the outgoing administration left for the progress of the Philippines. Whether politicised or not, its obvious that it presents the accomplishments of the Arroyo administration in almost a decade rule in the Philippines. Its like watching May Day parade minus the fanfare and uhm…crowd cheering for the greatness of the nation…or in their words, “Beat the Odds.”

Rizal Monument

However, I still can’t stop wondering, why are Filipinos at Quirino Grandstand (those ordinary ones) are just…don’t care. It’s like just another ho-hum programme. Although I love the performances and even the theme song, its just that there is something lacking in the hearts and minds of the Filipinos there. Are we taking Independence Day for granted?

Even the date itself is also mired with controversy. Even though if we freed ourselves from Spain as declared in Kawit on June 12, 1898, it wasn’t however recognized by any nation in the world–and bitterly, we were colonized once more, by the “benevolent Yankees.”

Sorbetes anyone?

The program itself really is to celebrate our liberation from oppression yet how come there is more spirit to town fiestas and big city fiestas than this sacred national holiday? I ask myself, could it be because of history or confused identity?

Anyway, after Gloria was “glorified,” we went strolling at Luneta until the time that the fireworks lit up the twilight sky. In a way, I celebrate the day of our liberty. However I am to ask, are we really free?

More photos here:

Rizal Park is located:

View Luneta in a larger map

The chief of the Lopez Group of Companies, Oscar “Oskie” Lopez, tells the story of the family’s triumphs and trials through time. He traced his roots from the earliest of times in the late Spanish colonial era. With his rediscovery of his past, he researched more about the heritage of his family and its contributions to the Filipino society. He believes that looking into the past would strengthen the foundation of their family and the Filipino society. In his 80^th birthday, the musical “Undaunted” was produced. It was played at the Meralco Theatre on April 23 and 24, 2010.

Originally conceived as a musical presentation for the 80^th anniversary of the Lopez Group of Companies, it has relived the history of the Lopezes from their ancestry in Iloilo, towards today’s generation and how the family kept the Lopez values of a pioneering entrepreneurial spirit, business excellence, nationalism, unity and team work, strong work ethic, integrity, social justice, and an over-riding concern for employee welfare and wellness. In the musical, they have emphasised these as something that strengthened the family’s business and prosperity towards the society. The musical’s title “Undaunted” reflects the strength of the family and sometimes referred to as like the phoenix who rises up from the ashes. As what Eugenio Lopez Sr once said, “this shall pass.”

Audie Gemora plays Oscar Lopez, together with Jake Macapagal, Mayen Bustamante-Cadd and more.

I still believe that we couldn’t move on to the future, if we do not look on to the past. Sounds familiar eh? “Ang di lumingon sa pinang-galingan, ay hindi makakarating sa paroroonan”. This (in)famous maxim that history students have to carry it by heart has given the perspective that we could do better every day of our lives. As a history graduate, I am always curious about the colourful and seemingly melodramatic story of Iloilo’s past—my hometown. A lot doesn’t know that this busy port in Panay Island in Western Visayas region of the Philippine Islands was a major trading port for the once lucrative sugar industry. The Lopezes contributed to its progress and shared its height, and also its fall from grace. Oscar, I believe, is very sentimental in the origins of his family, Iloilo. In a way, the family history of the Lopezes adds to what is called the history of the Ilonggo people.

I could still remember the old slogan of ABS-CBN, “In the service of the Filipino.” Perhaps, this is one value that the Lopezes cherish that still lingers. Perhaps, through the musical, one could see what the Lopezes has contributed in nation-building and its history.

Follow the Lopez Link on Facebook and Twitter for more information.

More photos of Undaunted:

In the late afternoons at the sprawling UP Diliman campus in Quezon City, the iskos and iskas ng bayan gather at a vacant lot in front of Kalayaan freshie hall and beside UP Post office. A simple barbeque stand under a few scantly trees is where the people assemble in line, ordering that one delectable street food that is one of my favourites—isaw. The place where I’m referring at—Mang Larry’s Isawan! And I say, parang box office hit ang pila dahil patok na patok sa mga estudyate ang isaw ni Mang Larry!

Lining up at Mang Larry's isawan

This barbeque stand has been known for ages by the students of the University of the Philippines. Every late afternoon to evening, Mang Larry and his crew sets up a stand for his barbeque. Students from the nearby dormitories (Kalayaan, Molave, Yakal, Sanggumay, Ipil) and the nearby staff housing take a hike and go satisfy their cravings for chicken or pork innards skewered and barbequed till golden brown. Isaw refers to either pork or chicken intestine that has been roasted over charcoal—inihaw na bituka ng baboy o manok! On the other hand, the barbeque stand also offers goto (pork large intestine), betamax (pork blood cubes), walkman (pig ears), chicken isaw (chicken intestines), pork barbeque and more. You dip the isaw at either sweetened vinegar or spicy vinegar…nomnom!

Isaw!

Enjoy isaw for only PhP6.00 per stick. The usual price for food in the BBQ stand ranges from PhP4.00 to PhP10.00. Ang drinks lang naman ang mahal—PhP10.00 hanggang kinse ata.

More skewered barbeque, betamax, baticulon, etc.

The simple barbeque stand is so popular, that even students from nearby Ateneo, Miriam and other schools come to UP. Cars line up the vacant lot at Mang Larry’s—at palaging buong barkada ang kasama. Rich and poor alike, they come here just to satisfy and enjoy their craving for Filipino street food. Life’s simplest pleasures.

Sawsaw isaw

Indeed, this institution of Buhay Peyups culture is said to be a success story. Mang Larry was able to send his kids to school, all because of what he earns from his popular barbeque stand. I was caught with surprise that the Mang Larry’s barbeque stand near Kalayaan Hall is already Cart Number 11! Kumikitang kabuhayan! Mang Larry must’ve a fleet of barbeque stands nearby.

Whew! Init!

Basta isawan tayo mamaya mga repapips!

How to get there? Simple.

Just ride any jeep going to UP Diliman from EDSA, North Avenue or Katipunan. UP Ikot, Pantranco/MRT Hi-Way, Katipunan and North EDSA jeepneys pass by in front of Kalayaan Residence Hall or beside UP Post Office. Just go there late in the afternoon or early evening, just to be sure.

Here’s the location map courtesy of Google

View Mang Larry’s Isawan in a larger map

Slow-cooked corned beef of Le Bistro Vert

The stress of fast-paced city life has left us something to crave beyond the usual stuff that we see, feel or eat. We look at the countryside and imagine the fresh foods that the people consume there. How we wish we could have those in the metropolis, however, we are imprisoned with a whole lot of love from MSG and other stuff. The good thing though, fresh farm produce cooked to perfection and served by one of the country’s best chefs, is just located right at the heart of Philippines’ financial capital—right at the heart of Makati City!

Le Bistro Vert (“The Green Bistro” in English) promotes sustainable food by sourcing out its food ingredients locally, from small farmers, organic farms or community groups. In turn, these fresh produce–void of those fertilisers and other harmful ingredients—are cooked to perfection by Chef Sau Del Rosario, one of the finest chefs in the country.

Bento Meal by Le Bistro Vert

The restaurant got its inspiration from Chit Juan, Jeanie Javelosa and Reena Francisco after conceiving the popular green store ECHOstore Body Basics (which offers products that promote sustainability in our local economy, some of their products such as the peppermint hand sanitizer spray and rosemary mint soap—all came from local organic farms). They realised that the small time farmers have a lot to offer with their produce. The idea of “directly from farm to the plate” was conceived. Together with the coffee shop entrepreneur Lot Tan, they gave birth to Le Bistro Vert.

ECHOStore Body Basics Peppermint Hand Sanitizer Spray

If there could be anything that is remarkable, it’s the food. I am one of those who look into the provinces and bring fresh farm produce back in Manila. The food at Le Bistro Vert was simply sumptuous and delectable—thanks to the fresh ingredients from the small farmers. I am also touched by the way that they promote our very own goods, like what the owners did to their successful ECHOstore. It’s an aid for our farmers in the countryside who live in meagre income, and at the same time, a support to our local economy. I could really say that, even if the restaurant is French-inspired, our fellow Filipinos get the most out of its benefits.

My order: Slow-cooked corned beef and organic rice! Yummy!

Tamarind Tea of Le Bistro Vert

I tried their slow-cooked corned beef and all that I can say is…finally a break from carne norte! It was delish! Beef was cooked slowly until it is very tender. Beef extract coming from the meat gave the dish its delectable flavour.

Menu of the day at Le Bistro Vert

Part of promoting our very own, Le Bistro Vert offers Kape Isla Philippine coffee. Have a free cup of Kape Isla sustainable coffee at Le Bistro Vert. To avail, just say the code “KapeIsla164” upon ordering your food at the restaurant. This is only available at Le Bistro Vert in Fraser Place, Valero Street, Makati City (just near Citibank and Pacific Star Buildings).

Living towards sustainability of our environment and local economy is something that we Filipinos should cherish about—Le Bistro Vert captured all of these aspects and also my palate. After all, it’s not just an ordinary restaurant, but a restaurant with a dream for a better and healthier Philippines.

Buen comer!

An Epic Struggle: Inside Manila's MRT on a rush hour

Saturday, 28 February 2010. 5:45PM Manila Time. Ayala MRT Station – It was rush hour (on a Saturday ha!) and the northbound MRT was late for more than 5 minutes. Obviously, if the train is late, passengers-in-waiting increase. I was running out of time, so I forced myself to get into a jam-packed MRT and went to Ortigas. A lot of foul words are hurling inside the MRT as people still struggle to push themselves in already full MRT. Kulang na lang sarsa, we are packed and smelled like sardines!

6PM Manila Time, Shaw MRT Station – I thought there would be many passengers that would go out of Shaw Boulevard Station. I was wrong. Instead, it went towards the extreme of kissing your fellow passenger beside you or the door. The driver may have lost patience because of so many people forcing themselves to come in. He then said in a firm tone, “sa susunod na lang po na tren ang iba. Next train na lang po ang iba!” But his plea fell on deaf (and stupid) ears. The train closed its door and moved towards Ortigas. Bueno, viva sardinas!

6:05PM Manila Time, Ortigas MRT Station – Time for me to alight the train…but goodness, it was a struggle! Passengers who are alighting the train find themselves in a verbal tussle of “excuse me’s, paraan po, lalabas, and pu**** i**s” Some maintained their courteous stance. Others lost their patience—and I was about to lose mine as well. For crying out loud, why are the incoming passengers not allowing the outgoing passengers to alight first! Paraanin mo muna ang bababa bago sumakay! But no, they insisted in staying in their places and not budge till kingdom come! I shouted “makikiraan lang po, may lalabas, pwede ba?” But like the driver, it fell on deaf (and stupid) ears. I have no other choice but to force myself out. I don’t care whether someone from these people would be hurt. Wala na akong paki-alam kung may masaktan pa. I need to get out of the train before the door closes. I shouted ‘excuse me, makikiraan po’ while struggling myself to get out. In a jiffy, I got out! Fresh air…FINALLY! Sorry na lang sa mga nabangga. Alangan na magbayad pa ako ng panibagong ticket galing Santolan! It’s just a matter of survival—this is just one example of an art that any city dweller in Manila should practise and memorize by heart—the art of combat commuting.

MRT Taft Avenue Station Platform

While most of us blame the government of the commuters’ struggle, this is not unique in Manila or in the Philippines. Have you seen the train passenger pushers in rush hour Tokyo subway? How about in Mexico City and the rest of megalopolises in this planet? That is really indeed a facet of life living in a metropolis of 12 million (urgh…almost 20 million including suburbia.) Nagkataon lang talaga na hindi maayos ang urban planning sa Metro Manila, lalo na sa public transport sector.

If you indeed would like to live in Manila, you have to learn the art of combat commuting. Nope, this is not about turning yourself into Jason Ivler…but impose your right as a commuter, maintain your controlled aggressiveness (take note: controlled…huwag maging Jason Ivler ng mga komyuter!) and assert your right to get out of the train…or loading a bus. Living in a big metro makes the competitiveness within us. After all, this is a “jungle of concrete trees and asphalt trails.”

MRT Taft Avenue Station Crowd

Combat commuting is not all about getting into a brawl or being rude with your fellow commuter, this also incorporate changing of the mindset. Yes, the government lacked foresight in urban planning (alas Manila and Ondoy), we can complain to the authorities, but reality bites—it takes time for a bloody government project to move ahead! Since that is the case, the only thing we can do is TO DEAL WITH IT.

MRT at EDSA-North Avenue

In the case of the MRT, if you are really maarte, then taking a taxi is not an option either—especially during rush hours. For women, good for them because they have their own coach…but if they opted to go in the unisex coaches, like a soldier preparing for war…they have to prepare for the worse, and better watch out for pick-pockers and animals called Maniacis Hubris!

Courteous?

Commuting in Metro Manila is like a battlefield. A lot of soldiers…umm commuters, are out there–competing with “prime seats” and “managing to go home.” But unlike the real battlefield where soldiers have alliances, in commuting, you are the General of the Army…and the army is yourself!

The only tips that I can give you are these:

• Watch out for orcs called magnanakaw. They don’t worship anyone. That’s why, secure your belongings like an OC.
• Observe. Try to observe the attitude of the commuters and formulate a solution. Parang problem solving lang yan.
• Assert your right as always, but try to manage your aggressiveness as well. Delikado na kung sumobra, di ba Marlene?
• Eat a light snack before going on a long ride home (heavy meal if going to work). Kahit yung Hong Kong-style fried noodles with siomai, oks na yun!
• Lastly and most importantly, patience. It pays off. Bawal mainitin ang ulo sa Maynila, or else…

MRT on a rush - Araneta Center Cubao Station

Living in a megalopolis is already a challenge, and one of its aspects is traveling within the city. Metro Manila is one giant battlefield that we all have to deal with. While our policymakers are making “improvements” in our public transport (and their pockets), we have to make a way in order to survive this concrete jungle. I suggest you have to learn “The Art of Combat Commuting.”

Deco's La Paz Bathoy

I haven’t eaten La Paz Batchoy since…I don’t remember. Heck, I haven’t eaten Batchoy when I went home in Iloilo just a couple of weeks ago! Although there are batchoyans here in Metro Manila, but I wanted to taste something different from the usual batchoy (yes, Lucky Me! therapy! Haha!)

I just found out that Deco’s La Paz Batchoy has opened up its first branch here in Manila…even though if the outlet has been open since last year pa! It’s located in the newly-opened Southgate Mall near Magallanes Interchange in  Makati (for commuters, its the big blue building with a television on top…and its on “EDSA-Mantrade”…sabihin nyo lang sa konduktor na “Mantrade”).

Oops, Halfway Done!

Had my “Super Bowl” for about P70+. (The La Paz Batchoy comes in three sizes, I got the medium-sized “super” bowl). Quite expensive as compared to its counterparts in Iloilo (oh yeah, reality check, I’m in Manila pala!) but it still retains that authentic La Paz Batchoy back home. The usual meke noodles (You can choose your type of noodles: the original meke, bihon or sotanghon) with pork innards, chicharon and that caldo that I’ve been “slurping” eversince! Put some pepper on it and voila! I miss that pre-war pan de sal that they sell which is often partnered with the soup…or you can go puto Manapla instead (pasaylo sa mga kasimanwa nga ari diri sa Manila, wala pandesal ni Pa-a diri).

It was my dinner, and I’m satisfied already. Finally, more choices for the big Ilonggo population in Metro Manila. We got Teds La Paz Batchoy already in several key locations in the Metro, and Deco’s is out here to compete–the authentic La Paz Batchoy wars have finally reached Manila! At least, I got a taste of home, away from home.

Deco’s is open from 10AM to 8:30PM and it’s just beside Mang Inasal.
Location map courtesy of Google Maps:


View Deco’s La Paz Batchoy in Manila in a larger map

Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


View Larger Map

Image of the Black Nazarene

Thousands of faithful will gather again this Saturday, January 9 for the annual feast of the Black Nazarene in Quiapo district, Manila. As old as tradition, Manila’s streets will be jam-packed with thousands of devotees flocking the Quiapo Church, Plaza Miranda and the streets of downtown Manila. The Manila Police District, in cooperation with the Quiapo Parish, released the 2010 procession route of the image of the Black Nazarene. It would still start at Quirino Grandstand and will pass by Lawton towards the streets of Quiapo, just like last year. However, the Quiapo area of the procession has been changed back to its traditional route because nakasanayan na ng mga deboto ang ruta na ito to prevent another untoward incident like that of last year. The reason is to accommodate the growing number of devotees to have contact with the image. And along with that would be the closure of some streets right at the heart of downtown Manila.

Here’s the route as per Manila Police District – Traffic Enforcement Unit:

Map courtesy of Google Maps:


View The Black Nazarene Procession Route 2010 in a larger map

ROUTE OF GRAND PROCESSION OF BLACK NAZARENE / CLOSED TO VEHICULAR TRAFFIC AREAS:

Route-From Quirino Grandstand going to Katigbak Drive thru P. Burgos, straight to McArthur Bridge, right Palanca, left Estero Cegado, right Carriedo, left Evangelista, right Raon, right Quezon Blvd., thru under Quezon Bridge, left Palanca, left Globo de Oro, left Gunao, right Arlegui, left Nepomuceno, left Aguila, right Carcer, right Hidalgo thru Plaza del Carmen, left B. Viejo thru G. Puyat, left Guzman, right Hidalgo, left Barbosa, right Globo de Oro St., thru under Quezon Bridge, right Palanca, right Villalobos thru Plaza Miranda going to Quiapo Church.

Motorists are advised to stay away from the streets of downtown Manila, especially Lawton and Quiapo areas. However, the Police District has provided instructions on re-routing of vehicular traffic posted in their website.

Quezon Boulevard, Quiapo. One of the roads to be used in the procession

It was almost 11AM when we left Luneta for Intramuros as we continue our walk in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps. Sure enough, Intramuros is just a walk away from the park…but beware of crossing Padre Burgos Street though…big trucks and cars rush over the road…just wait for the pedestrian crossing light to turn green, ok? In anyways, it was just a short walk entering Puerta Real and Revellin de Real de Bagumbayan…the Royal Gates of the medieval Manila that was.

Intramuros in a glimpse was THE Manila of the Spanish colonial era. The Spaniards live here amidst the protection of its walls and fully-armed cannoned baluartes from the foreigners or extranjeros such as piratas, Moros, Briton, Neerlandes, Portugues and most especially Chinos infiel. Built from Rajah Matanda’s old wooden palisade community called Maynilad, the settlement grew to be the colony’s center of governance. It survived all the way until World War II when it was heavily damaged during “The Liberation” in 1945 which was also the venue for hundreds of thousands slain by the Japanese imperial troops in the wake of the American forces “liberating” Manila. Three decades later, it was restored and now managed by the Intramuros Administration under the Office of the Philippine President.

Puerta Real de Intramuros

Puerta Real

Back to the journey, Puerta Real is the southern gate of the walled city of Manila. PLMayers, tourists and ordinary Pinoys pass by this gate frequently, but going to Intramuros was never easy for any extranjero of the past. One has to pass the mosquito-infested moat that surrounds the walled city which has been filled up and turned into a golf course. The puerta is also protected by the Revellin Real de Bagumbayan, another defense fortification for the walled city…talk about medieval ages, Manila was then like those of the medieval walled European cities way back then…proyectado por las conquistadores espaoles. The revellin today is more like a garden and a mini activity venue…but inside Puerta Real, there are relics and tombstones from the old walled city…creepy huh?

When you enter Puerta Real, Calle General Luna or known as Calle Real during the Spanish era, was the main road of Intramuros. Most of the important edifices of governance and commerce in the colony can be found along the road. It leads the Palacio del Gobernador, Iglesia de San Agustin and Catedral de Manila to the outside world. We head on towards Fort Santiago when we decided to take a visit on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site located at the heart of Philippines’s capital.

Iglesia y Mueso de San Agustin: One of Foundations of Catholic faith in Manila

The Church of San Agustin is said to be one of the oldest stone edifices in Manila. Completed in 1607, the present structure is the third generation church, which was established by the Agustinian friars in 1571…from nipa and bamboo to wood and to stone. Aside from being one of the oldest, it is also one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in the Philippines which was declared in 1993.

San Agustin Church

The church has been a silent witness of changes in history…from earthquakes, foreign invasions, typhoons, revolution to the atrocities of war and change of government.

The church’s architecture is of baroque with an orange-yellow palitada covering its exterior walls and façade. Two Chinese foo dogs (or lions I guess) stand guard the church plaza entrance and church entrance. Perhaps it is a gift of the Chinese coverts to Catholicism to the friars. Although it lost its northern bell tower during an earthquake in the 19^th century and very simple in its design, when you come inside…the trompe-l’oeil in the ceiling would give you a gasp…as if they are real carvings but…they are paintings! Talk about IMAX and 3D glasses, the painters who made the ceiling décor sure has the vision to make it 3D! Aside from it, the interior looks like a grand church in Europe.

A lot of people don’t know that the tomb of the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi can be found just beside the main altar of the church…I mean a room just beside the main altar. Aside from it, it has been the place where the the Spanish government’s preparation for surrender to the Americans in 1898. Yet the most memorable could’ve been during World War 2, when the Japanese used this as a garrison and a concentration camp…and many of Intramuros’ citizens were held hostage here which a lot of them would never see the free sun again.

San Agustin Museum Hallway...You can take pictures here but not in the exhibition room

The museum and convent is located just beside the church. Entrance fee for adults here is PhP70.00 (US$1.50) and has a good collection of paintings and antique religious artifacts from different churches of the country. You can also access the crypt within its premises. The museum itself is open from 9AM to 5pm with a lunch break at 12PM to 1PM daily.

Foo Dogs/Lions guarding the gate of San Agustin Church

By the way, they do allow photos within the musuem EXCEPT EXHIBITION AREAS! Huwag na po sanang pasaway ang iba!

And as we leave San Agustin Church, we went on towards Plaza Roma, the center of power in Spanish colonial Philippines.

Plaza Mayor: Center of Power

Plaza Roma Manila. Click the Photo to view larger picture

I’ve mentioned earlier that plazas are heart and soul of every Philippine ciudad, pueblo or Spanish-governed settlement during the three centuries of rule of the Spaniards. In Manila perhaps, Plaza Roma or Plaza Mayor as it was called back then, was the main square of the colony. If you ask me, probably this was the equivalent of Mexico’s Zocalo back then. You have the seat of ecclesiastical power, colonial government power and city’s local government in just one area! The plaza was the site of the bull fights and other public activities until it became a green park sometime in the 18^th century according to Intramuros Administration. In its center is the bronze statue of Rey Carlos IV de Espana, erected in 1824. A dedication to the king sent in the package of smallpox vaccine in the Philippines.

Surrounding the Plaza Mayor are the following:

• Manila Cathedral – also called as Basilica Minore de Imaculada Concepcion, it is the symbol of ecclesiastical power of Catholic faith in Spanish colonial Manila and the Philippines. First built as a bamboo and nipa church in 1581, the one that you see now is the sixth incarnation (constructed in the 1950s) of those previous cathedrals that were built and was toppled down by fires, typhoons, earthquakes and bombardment. In 1981, the cathedral became a basilica minore as approved by Pope John Paul II. The cathedral is of neo-Romanesque in architecture, with wide-arched doorways and a rose window in its façade. It’s belfry is separated from the main church body. It is also here were Archbishops of Manila is traditionally lie in state…but former presidents Carlos Garcia and Corazon Aquino were also interred and had their requiem mass held.

Manila Cathedral

• Palacio del Gobernador Building – To your right when you’re facing the cathedral would be the Palacio del Gobernador…nope, don’t expect skyscrapers during Rizal’s time. That building is just recent. Remember that Intramuros was heavily bombarded and only San Agustin Church remained standing. The site has also been abandoned in favor of the summer palace of Malacañang after the original palacio was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1863 and was laid to ruins for more than a century until 1970s. It was once the residence of the gobernador-general of colonial Philippines from 1645 to 1863. It is also here where the Real Audiencia or the Supreme Court of the islands was located back then. Today, it is known to be the headquarters of the Commission on Elections or we Pinoys know as COMELEC. The current building sure houses life and death of Philippine democracy through elections.

New Palacio del Gobenador Building

• Ayuntamiento site – It’s just a big parking lot with a Spanish colonial era inspired walls surrounding it to cheaply imitate the ruins of once the city hall of Manila. Yup, ladies and gentlemen, this site was once the seat of local power and authority of the city of Manila through its Cabildo de Manila (Council of Manila). During the American colonial era, it became the seat of colonial power from military to civil government. Supreme Court and Bureau of Justice were also located here until it suffered bombardment during the “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. Unlike his neighbors, the ayuntamiento never rose again from its ruins…and is now…a glorified parking lot. It’s such a loss indeed.

And it’s 12 noon…we’re searching where to eat lunch. But that was December 30, starting of one of the longest holidays in the country and most restaurants in Intramuros (fastfood and cheap ones that is) were closed. And because of the search, we’ve managed to encounter another important civil building before ending up in SM City Manila for lunch because there was no rice at the nearest Chowking (the only open fast food chain at that time).

Aduana

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Intendiencia/Aduana de Manila ruins

This was the bagsakan of imported goods or we all know as “Customs.” Built in 1823, it served as the Customs house of Manila. During those times folks, the port was still beside Pasig River, not North and South Harbour. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1863 but was restored and in turn, would be the grandfather of Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas. Check your 100 peso bills please and look for that building on the upper left of the bill…on the upper left of the bill…yung picture na isiningit sa itaas ng litrato ng Bangko Sentral ngayon…that was the Intendencia back then in its glorious days…the casa de moneda (mint), office of the Treasury. The edifice though did somehow managed the bombardment of Manila in 1945 and resumed to be the office of BSP, COMELEC and Bureau of Treasury until it was razed by fire in 1979. Today, there is a big sign stating that it would be the future site of the National Archives (which is occupying some space of the National Library as of now)…but Intramuros Administration said that…restoration for the Intendencia was in 1998…oh, okay para din palang ilan sa mga di natapos na proyekto ng gobyerno dahil wala nang badyet. It’s more than a decade and this magnificent ruin still stands as a ruin. I wonder when they will resume the restoration?

It’s after lunch…as I’ve said, no rice at Chowking…so of we go to SM City Manila to find some grub. Later that afternoon, we’ll be back in our ultimate destination in reminiscing Rizal’s last footsteps…his incarceration at Fort Santiago.

For now, chow time!

More photos here:

Map of the Route:


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