Waiting Commuters at Talaba, Bacoor, Cavite -- ang tagal dyan kahit bukana na ng Maynila!

The first is, have you tried combat commuting? I think if you live in Manila, it is essential to know combat commuting. Its a war waged every single weekday in the Philippine capital. The climax of the war at Hell’s Gate? Rush hour madness. Everyday, people try to cram themselves in buses, jeepneys and metros. Well, asi es la vida en Manila! Can’t deal with it? Might as well leave for the provincias.

Now, for a Cavite resident like me, traveling from home to work is a fact of life. Manila has become crowded and the urban expansion reached the doorsteps of its neighboring provinces, one of which is Cavite. There may be 12 million residents in Metro Manila but including the Greater Manila Area (encompassing Cavite, Laguna, Rizal, Bulacan), we may even be comparable with the population of that of Mexico City, Tokyo or Mumbai! Cavite has the largest share of GMA residents–3 million people, tw0-thirds of it lives in towns near Metro Manila and along Aguinaldo Highway–the sole main artery of the province. Three million, the most populous province in the country–and with real estate blooming like lumot in the pond, its like a heart chocked with cholesterol! After all, Cavite IS a bedroom of Metro Manila.

Counterflow or locally known as "Buhos" at Aguinaldo Hghway, Panapaan, Bacoor, Cavite

How does it feel to be a Caviteño commuter? Well, either your still in school or working, you SUFFER the same fate as the rest of Cavite’s commuters, most especially rush hour. How so? Try to imagine yourself, waking up while the sun isn’t yet shining. Took a bath, get dressed and rushed your way to Aguinaldo Highway. Reaching the bus stop, you’ll be with lots of people waiting for the bus to stop for them to ride. Yet, the buses by-pass the said loading and unloading area. You wait, the sun is up, the buses still pass by you, and more people are coming to wait for the bus to ride on. Lawton, Pasay, Buendia, Cubao, Baclaran, Ayala, Ortigas–San Agustin, Jasper Jean, Solid Star, Erjohn and Almark and a lot more bus companies, just–don’t mind you guys at the bus stop at all. Weird no? Why? Because these buses are already full to the brim! Malapit nang magsuka ang mga bus sa sobrang puno, di na nagpapasakay ang mga tsuper ng bus!

Traffic Congestion near SM Bacoor

Then luckily, you rode a bus…but damn! It’s butt-cramped! You can kiss the windshield or make manyak to the person beside you. The only thing that separates us from sardine cans would be the sauce! You have to be an expert in yoga to perform such positions far too uncomfortable for a morning ride! As we went by, we’ve passed by several bus stops along the way…pity, the commuters have been waiting and will be waiting for a bus to ride on. Punong-puno ang sidewalks ng mga mag-kokomyut.

Ooops…its not the end. Then, you came near Bacoor Rotonda–that’s in SM Bacoor, the traffic halted and you’ve waited…and waited…and waited…and waited…until the bus driver went down to puff some cigarettes while…waiting. 20 to 30 minutes later, you’re still waiting…until…swoosh!!! BUHOS TAYM!!! The Manila-bound cars and vehicles head for a mad dash towards Coastal Road…to escape the agony of waiting and the hell called Aguinaldo Highway! You’re lucky if you caught the first hour counter-flow…because it runs all the way to Coastal Road. By around 7AM, its good luck to you! Hephep! Kala ko bawal na ang counterflow sabi ni President Noy? Hehe!

As we reached Coastal Road, as if it was reaching nirvana! Usually, Coastal Road during early mornings is a paradise to motorists. Except for the toll plaza of course. If Aguinaldo Highway was hell, Coastal Road was salvation!

Caviteños have lived for this kind of life for more than a decade already. I can still clearly remember that rush hour traffic was only up to the Revilla residence in Bacoor. But now, it goes as far as Anabu in Imus! That’s umm, almost 10 kilometers of traffic congestion…of hell on earth! No traffic travel time from Anabu to Longos Junction in Coastal Road, less than 30 minutes. Travel time during rush hours, a lovely 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the “mood.”

Approaching Longos Junction in Bacoor Cavite, nearing Coastal Road -- the Gates of Heaven and Hell!

For now, we have to deal with it. Finding innovative ways so that we wouldn’t be scolded by our professors and bosses. But we pray for so long, sana naman may magawa naman para sa mga komyuter ng Cavite!

The morbid fact: CAVITE LACKS URBAN PLANNING OR IS THERE?! It’s a mess! And the residential areas are still growing while the infrastructure for roads and public transport is snail-paced! What the?! Haven’t they forgotten that eating too much pork is dangerous to Cavite’s health?! The incoming flux of migrants, residential and industrial developments of this province is clogging the arteries…and I have no idea if the body of the province, the local officials, are doing any drastic measure to change Cavite’s lifestyle…pero parang di masyadong maramdaman! Daang Hari and Molino Boulevard may be there but it’s not enough for the three million souls to move along! Regarding public transport, LRT South Extension project has been shelved–I heard about that crap since I was GRADE 5! For those who want the Coastal Road Extension to be stopped–kayo lang ba ang babara sa ugat namin dahil sa mga tahong at talaba? May mga ibang trabaho din naman po sa paligid, kumilos naman po tayo at huwag masyadong umasa palagi sa gobyerno! Pigilan nyo ang extension project at 2 milyong katao ang mas maapektuhan!

Coastal Road in Parañaque City -- Its mostly light to moderate traffic on early mornings except the toll plaza and Mia Road junction

It is something that the new leader, Jonvic Remulla, and the rest of the Cavite’s politicos should think and act about swiftly and wisely. There will come a time when the present “Buhos” system wouldn’t work anymore! What’s with being the most urbanized if we don’t have the proper infrastructure? As early as now, the province is already showing urban decay–this early! With the new president installed, I hope they should start acting up…before its too late. Cavite is already heading for a cardiac arrest!

Now, how does it feel being a commuter from Cavite? Ask me, that’s me on the photo.

I say, mabuhay ang mga bagong bayani ng Kabite! Mabuhay ang mga dakilang komyuter ng Kabite!

A century and 12 years later, the Republic of the Philippines celebrated its freedom from the Spanish Empire with a float, performance and parade gala at the Quirino Grandstand in Luneta, Manila. Since this is the last year of the outgoing president Gloria Arroyo, the government allotted PhP10 million for the whole programme. The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (Yes, another name change. It was National Historical Institute) was the main organizer of the programme “Kalayaan 2010″ (Freedom 2010). I wasn’t able to see the traditional flag raising at Aguinaldo’s House at Kawit (its too early! Good luck at baka trapik sa Binakayan galing dito sa Imus!) so I went to Luneta that afternoon for the civic and military parade.

Dinagyang of Iloilo performing at Independence Day rites

As usual, Quirino Grandstand has been the venue of such parades in history. Americans did it here. Luneta is one big park comparable to Washington DC’s “The Mall.” In any case, Roxas Boulevard was full of “MIUs” or Men In Uniform (police, military, pulis oyster) and looks like the military parade has been finished. Oh well, there is something left to watch anyway.

Finalé

To my surprise, Iloilo’s Dinagyang Festival and Candaba Pampanga’s Ibun-Ebun Festival performers were there. However, there is something that lacks on their performance…or maybe there is something about in numbers. For the former alone, they didn’t sent the whole battalion that I used to see in their performances–that’s about near 200.

MIUs...Men In Uniform

Anyway, “Kalayaan 2010″ was said to be controversial…a way to glorify Gloria’s legacy. However, the organizers defended that it is about overcoming challenges and the legacy that the outgoing administration left for the progress of the Philippines. Whether politicised or not, its obvious that it presents the accomplishments of the Arroyo administration in almost a decade rule in the Philippines. Its like watching May Day parade minus the fanfare and uhm…crowd cheering for the greatness of the nation…or in their words, “Beat the Odds.”

Rizal Monument

However, I still can’t stop wondering, why are Filipinos at Quirino Grandstand (those ordinary ones) are just…don’t care. It’s like just another ho-hum programme. Although I love the performances and even the theme song, its just that there is something lacking in the hearts and minds of the Filipinos there. Are we taking Independence Day for granted?

Even the date itself is also mired with controversy. Even though if we freed ourselves from Spain as declared in Kawit on June 12, 1898, it wasn’t however recognized by any nation in the world–and bitterly, we were colonized once more, by the “benevolent Yankees.”

Sorbetes anyone?

The program itself really is to celebrate our liberation from oppression yet how come there is more spirit to town fiestas and big city fiestas than this sacred national holiday? I ask myself, could it be because of history or confused identity?

Anyway, after Gloria was “glorified,” we went strolling at Luneta until the time that the fireworks lit up the twilight sky. In a way, I celebrate the day of our liberty. However I am to ask, are we really free?

More photos here:

Rizal Park is located:

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Cebu Pacific Air Airbus A320-200

In the 2003 Gwyneth Paltrow starrer “View from the Top”, Candice Bergen who played accomplished Flight Attendant Sally Weston said “Gone are the days when people traveled in style”.

In the era of budget airlines, people take a plane as though it was just a bus. Flying today is like riding a pedicab or a PUJ where comfort or service does not matter as long as the airline delivers its promise to “get you there”– and in one piece (literally, as you’re dead broke per additional baggage).

Philippine Airlines Airbus A320-200 at NAIA Terminal 2

In the age of legacy airlines, air travel was a holiday in itself. People looked forward to flying to experience pampering in the sky, courtesy of well-screened flight attendants who exude the warmth and hospitality of the countries or cultures they represent. They made the flyer fall in love at 30,000 feet in those days (and I mean that in the most non-mile-high-club way).

Inside Cebu Pacific Airbus A320

In-flight meals were prepared by top (Frenchy) chefs and the aperitif, selected meticulously to please the most Britishly-discriminating traveler. Linen sheets, hot towels, newspapers of all sorts and in-flight entertainment were all part of the legacy airline experience.

Inside Philippine Airlines's Airbus A320

Today, flights take off as unceremoniously as the printing of the eTicket. People are loaded up in packed cabins as airlines value profits in “seat cost per mile”— more than passengers succumbing to Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) after being held for hours on an indecently cramped seat built for people with no legs. Travel is nowhere near “tranquil” as their safety card suggests.

Blame it on the fuel crisis, terrorism and the airlines’ unrelenting hunger for survival.

Passengers these days can only be thankful that their planes did not slam into iconic buildings or explode mysteriously over the ocean. Thanks to well-maintained planes (there goes your in-flight lunch) and the invasiveness of today’s airport security whose x-ray machines are built to detect man’s biggest (or smallest) secrets. Add to that the frisking and occasional “cupping” which makes me want to sue for acts of lasciviousness or slight physical injuries (for rough searches). As a frequent traveler, I go through all these airport molestations habitually.

Cebu Pacific Air Airbus A320

And gone are the days of full service airlines as everyone’s going for ultra low fare. Again the fuel crisis has severed many of the privileges travelers once enjoyed. Planes need to fly light to save on fuel thus passengers should either be stick-thin or they travel naked.

Baggage allowance has decreased to almost nil. Okay, I know Filipinos are not light travelers but promo fares that only allow 7 kilos of baggage (which weighs just about as light as the nation’s self-esteem) is blatantly un-Filipino.

Talk about traveling light. Looks like everyone is enticed not to bring checked-in baggage these days

Nowadays many are forced to travel light or they “pay per succeeding kilo” upon check-in, which actually stalls the long queues in that yellow airline’s counter. On another airline an Econolite passenger’s seat gets a round sticker to indicate (with utmost humiliation) that his ticket is super cheap. The stickers tell flight attendants not to give newspapers or serve snacks that are exclusively for those who paid more.

But not to worry, the snacks they’re serving would really cost less than 20 pesos from a neighborhood sari sari store (you may buy on the way to the airport) as it’s merely soda crackers and water— or menu befitting yoyo dieters and anorexic super models.

The other airline also does not serve free snacks. One has to buy from their trolley-full of Jack n Jill products (big fan of Chippy here but not at airborne prices) or a very expensive bottle of C2— unaffordable even to their supposed budget-challenged guests. Apparently this low fare, great value airline wants to promote its other products at passengers’ expense. Literally.

Zest Air Airbus A320-200

Meantime the other emerging orange juice airline serves—well—orange juice (in doy pack) to its passengers, free of charge. It’s reminiscent of yellow airline’s free chiz curls and pepsi days when it was just starting up. Orange juice air serves free juice in-flight to attract a following. And it’s been a while since I last saw their juice brand outside a memorial park. It’s finally refreshing to have that brand associated with happier times!

Now back to that legacy airline also dabbling in budgetry… I once took its noontime flight to Cagayan De Oro and a group traveling on Econolite brought meals knowing that they will not be served anything on the plane.

The cabin reeked of Chicken Joy for the entire duration of the flight. The rest of us watched (mouth watering with envy) as the Econoliters devoured their lunch of 2-piece-fried-chicken-with-rice-coke-and-peach-mango-pie— while the rest of us reluctantly finished off our sachet of Happy peanuts, gulping it down with a cup of coffee as bland as sugar crisis.

Typical legroom for Cebu Pacific's Airbus A320's seats...better sit up straight!

Passengers in the age of budget travel can really fight back at some of the airlines’ inequities.

After lunching the Econoliters handed over to the flight attendants their trash, plastics, spoons, forks, straws, empty Jollibee upsized cups, styrofoam packs with piles of chicken bones and dripping gravy.

Afterall Econolite does not mean airline will not take your trash as well. Mabuhay!

Fort Santiago Gate

After lunch, we head back to Intramuros and went to our ultimate destination: Fort Santiago. Why ultimate? Because it is where Jose Rizal was incarcerated for the last days of his life. Before he was shot in Luneta (err…Bagumbayan), he was imprisoned here by the Spanish authorities due to accusations of instigating mass revolts that are erupting all over Luzon and some parts of the country.

What is it about Fort Santiago? Except that it is popular as a fieldtrip destination of kids and tourists, it is one focal point of authority during the Spanish colonial era…a manifestation of foreign grip in the Philippines.  It is located at the northernmost part of the walled city, like a sentinel guarding the mouth of Pasig River and the walled city itself. Its location is as strategic as it is important to the Spanish crown colony, as most of the military power emanates from this fuerza real.

Santiago de Matamoros

The name of the fort though is somewhat appropriate to the conquering Spaniards at that time. Dedicated to Santiago de Matamoros or Saint James the Moor Slayer, it somehow depicts their religious zealotry and somehow their encounters with the Muslim Moros of Mindanao have reinforced its namesake.

Fort Santiago Panorama (Click here to view larger image)

According to the legend (umm…it’s a historical fact!), the site of the real fuerza was once the original site of the kingdom of Maynila of Rajah Suleiman.  In other words, Fuerza Santiago IS where Manila sprang into existence. Then the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi came in 1570. He invaded Maynila with his superior fire power and political will and toppled the wooden palisades of the Suleiman Manila and established a fortress in the site of the old Maynila once stood. However, because of outside attacks, especially pirates and the Chinese during the early days of colonization, the Spaniards replaced the old earth and log palisades into stone walls and was finished in 1592. For almost 333 years, the fort also became the hub of the walled city as galleons to Mexico and other ships trade either near the fort of its peripheries. Over the centuries, it has served as a military bastion from the Spanish all the way to the American colonial era.

Rizal, The Fort and The Cathedral

Yet like the rest of Intramuros during World War II, it was heavily damaged…and tales of horror and desperate atrocities hound the dark and damp dungeons. According to a plaque in the fort, there were at least 600 bodies found inside a dungeon as the Japanese imperial troops desperately executed their hostages during the so-called “Liberation” of Manila in 1945. A stone cross is erected for the unsung martyrs of WW2.

Inside Rizal Shrine

Left to decay after the war, it only got a facelift sometime during the Marcos era thru the establishment of Intramuros Administration. It was restored and now, a favorite attraction for school children and tourists alike.

In Memoriam of the Victims in Fort Santiago

Now, moving on to its present era, before you even enter the main fort itself, you’ll be strolling along at a park inside the old walls. I remember entering a tunnel which led us to the chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the office of Intramuros Golf Club. Along the park, you’ll see remnants of the past. It is somehow a legacy or well…ghastly reminder of our past.

The Fort Santiago Park

Moving forward, it is still interesting to take note that there is still a moat in front of the fort’s main gate. Back then, Intramuros was surrounded by this moat…although the Yankee conquerors deemed it as a health hazard since most mosquitoes and disease-laden pests come from the stinking stagnant water of the moat. They have it replaced with a golf course!

The Old and the New Manila From Baluarte de Santa Barbara

As you entered the gate, a wooden relief of Santiago de Matamoros greets the visitors. Upon entering it, there’s another park and more walls to stroll at…on western side though are the ruins of the military offices…and just north of it is the Rizal Shrine in the fort.

Fort Santiago Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine is a museum dedicated to the last days of Rizal…most especially his Mi Ultimo Adios before his execution in Bagumbayan on December 30, 1896.

And as we have our appreciation on Rizal’s last days on the museum-shrine, we went on to Baluarte de Santa Barbara where you could catch a glimpse of the northern banks of Manila…Binondo, Santa Cruz and the Del Pan ghetto. Just imagine what it was before during the Spanish and American colonial era!

Panoramic View of Manila from Baluarte de Santa Barbara | Click to view larger image

As the cool breeze refreshed us (by the way, Pasig River does not reek nowadays! It’s an improvement from its 1990s state!) and heritage unfolded us with the rich history that our people has, Fort Santiago is really the place for us to touch our own culture and history…not more than just kodakan, it’s like walking together with Rizal and our ancestors who left a legacy for us to remind them of their nobleness and sacrifices.

Inside Fort Santiago

For more photos, view here:

Map of Fort Santiago courtesy of Google Maps:


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Monumento, one of the few places in Metro Manila that earned its name as a hub and a bustling commercial center. Lagi nating dinadaanan ang Monumento ni Gat Andres Bonifacio pero di natin napapansin na isa ito sa mga pinakadakilang monumento sa ating republika. For most of us, Monumento in the northern Metro Manila city of Caloocan serves as a landmark for shopping and for those who would like to go up in Central and Northern Luzon since buses and jeepneys pass by this busy thoroughfare at the intersection of Rizal Avenue Extension, MacArthur Highway, Letre and the historical EDSA. This is Caloocan’s most famous landmark.

Bonifacio Monument, Monumento, Caloocan City, Metro Manila

The statues made of bronze was made by Guillermo Tolentino, a renowned artist who also created the Oblation of University of the Philippines. It was erected in 1933 and served as a colossal yet majestic  I wonder, how would Bonifacio feels seeing his monument in the middle of a bustling roundabout?

Aside that right now that the country is celebrating his birthday (ironically not his day of martyrdom unlike other Filipino heroes, thoughts later), this is one way of commemorating Lolo Andres Bonifacio and the Katipuneros, the supremo of the revolutionary group Katipunan (a secret society that initiated a massive rebellion during the Philippine war for independence against the Spaniards) which eventually lead to the country’s independence from the three centuries of Don Quixote’s rule from 1896 to 1898.

Hub

This certain place in Caloocan is so called because of the imposing monument dedicated to the Supremo of the Katipunan. It is indeed Caloocan’s most well-known landmark which greets visitors from the north bound for Metro Manila.

The LRT Yellow Line at Monumento Station bound for Baclaran

And because the monument greets the visitors and people coming from the north, it became a hub for virtually almost anything to Camanava (Caloocan, Malabon, Navotas, Valenzuela area), and Northern and Central Luzon. A transport hub that is.

Victory Liner Caloocan Bus Terminal

Here are some of the public transport terminals that are located in Monumento, Caloocan area:

1. LRT Monumento Station – the northern end of the classic Light Railway Transit Yellow Line (Line 1) which runs from Baclaran in Parañaque, passing through the heart of Manila and towards Monumento. This station indeed is the terminus for those who live in northern Metro Manila and beyond. And just below it are the jeepneys and buses…
2. Bus stations – Most predominant of the provincial bus stations would be Victory Liner. This is one of their terminals where you can ride a bus going to Malolos, Bulacan, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, Pangasinan, Olongapo and Baguio. There are other bus stations surrounding the Monumento area…pero wala akong time para libutin ang buong Monumento, hehe!
3. Bus stop – Buses that ply EDSA to Malanday, Letre/Sangandaan pass by here. You can also catch up Pacita-Laguna and Dasmariñas-Cavite bound buses here too in rare occasions. Monumento is the bus hub for those who are bound for Caloocan City proper in Sangangdaan/Dagat-Dagatan and Malanday.
4. Jeepney hub – Like any other hubs in Metro Manila, this is the main hub for CAMANAVA (or CAloocan, MAlabon, NAvotas and VAlenzuela Cities) area. Jeepneys bound for Malabon Bayan pass by Letre and Puregold while those who are bound to the pilgrimage site of Our Lady of Salambao in Obando can take a jeepney just behind the Victory Lines bus terminal in Caloocan.
5. Soon to be Northrail – when the controversial Northrail would be finished, Caloocan would serve as its main dropping point (not Tutuban in EDSA) just a few meters from Monumento…The question is, when will it be finished and are there any more anomalies left?

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Maguindanao, Philippines | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

Given the degree of the events that happened in Cotabato (Maguindanao to be exact) region, HabagatCentral.com would like to give you a bit of glimpse on the towns now mentioned in the news. Personally, I’ve been to these towns in 2005-2006 as part of my thesis and bears hold personally.

Two of Maguindanao’s towns have been mentioned in the news…and yes, these are the baluartes or strongholds of the warring political clans. These are Buluan, a southern town in Maguindanao almost sandwiched by Christian-dominated towns; and Shariff Aguak, the capital town of the province of Maguindanao.

Buluan: The Mangudadatu’s baluarte

Buluan, Maguindanao and Buluan River (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

The town was established on August 1947 under Executive Order No. 82 by President Manuel Roxas. It is believed to have been once a part of a local kingdom that was ruled by Datu Ali, Datu Inok and his wife Bai Bagungan before the American occupation. The name itself derives from a legend of three brothers who gave iron-implements to the sole family who was living in the area. In memory of the sympathy shown by the brothers, the area was named “buluanen” or bolo-suppliers.

It once has a land area sprawling from present day city of Tacurong, the towns of President Quirino, Columbio, Lutayan at Sultan Kudarat and all the way to M’lang in North Cotabato. It once covered the tilapia-rich Lake Buluan. The current population as of 2007 is 33,702.

And guess what, from this mother town, several new towns were created starting from Tacurong and Columbio in the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Ilocano-town of President Quirino and in the north was General Salipada K. Pendatun town in 1991. Afterwards in 2006, 2 new towns were formed: Manungdadatu and Pandag. Buluan has once having a lakeshore area, and now a landlocked area. It was once the transit hub for the pioneer Christian settlers during the 1950s since Buluan River as I’ve said was the major thoroughfare…long before the highways was built in this once deep Cotabato hinterland.

Buluan, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

The town itself is just less than 30 minutes away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat on a well-paved highway going to North Cotabato, Kidapawan City and eventually Davao City. The poblacion straddles along Buluan River, one of the tributaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao and was the main highway during the “Pioneer Years” of the Christian migration to Mindanao. The town is rather laid back when it comes to economic activities. It was noon time back then and the people were just finished from their prayer duty…it was a quiet town with a main road going inside the town. According to some old Tacurong residents, Buluan looks like the town that they knew during the pioneering days.

Buayan was once known for its crocodile-skin industry…yes, like any other Philippine towns back then, there were a lot of buwayas swimming around fresh-water rivers and lakes. The Moros of the past once hunt these for their precious skin which was in demand back then. Simeon Millan described the town as a “sportsmen’s paradise” because you could go fishing at its lakeshore.

Shariff Aguak: The Ampatuan baluarte

Maguindanao Provincial Capitol | Photo by Jaileen Jimeno of Philippine Center for Investigative Journalism

It was fascinating to know back then that there was a Philippine TV documentary about which is which…who’s the real capital of Maguindanao: the town of Sultan Kudarat, just north of Cotabato City or Shariff Aguak (or formerly known as Maganoy) way down south in Maguindanao? As confirmed, it is Shariff Aguak.

The said Ampatuan Residence in Shariff Aguak (2005) | Photo by HabagatCentral.com

Its old name is Maganoy which was once part of the greater town of Dulawan (modern-day Datu Piang, Maguindanao). In 1963, it separated from its mother municipality and became a capital of the Maguindanao province after the old Cotabato province was further divided into three new provinces in 1973.

An Aerial view of Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao. Seen in the photo is the new provincial capitol of Maguindanao| Photo by Panoramio (Contributed by Datu Piang)

With a population of more than 41,000 and with 14 barangays as of the moment, it serves as the capital of the province of Maguindanao. Basically a third-class town at the foothills of the Tiduray Mountains, going here is quite hard from the major cities in Mindanao, especially from either Cotabato City (which is an hour away by bus or shuttle vans) or General Santos City (2 hours at least). This town has a simple “along the highway” settlement with startling contrasts in its center: The impressive new capitol of Maguindanao which straddles along a hill and the house of the ruling family of the area, the Ampatuans.

Like Buluan, there were several towns that were carved out from its area: Mamasapano, Datu Unsay, Shariff Sayadona Mustapha and Datu Hoffer Ampatuan.

Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao | Map Courtesy of Wikipedia

This particular settlement mostly caters on provincial governmental transactions. It is also somehow a food hub in that particular area in Maguindanao.

I remember passing by Shariff Aguak not so long ago and saw the magnificent edifices. The Ampatuan residence has a golden-dome mosque inside a well-guarded compound of their residence. They are the modern-day datus of the “Kingdom of Maguindanao.” The capitol on the other hand overlooks the town and the vast plains of Maguindanao. It incorporates Islamic architecture together with the traditional Mindanao motif.

On the other hand, surrounding these magnificent edifices are the residences of the commoners. Mostly made of nipa, wood or anything that nature and limited resources could offer. Somehow, it provided a contrasting backdrop of the society in which the people of the area are living in.

Buses at EDSA Crossing (EDSA-Shaw Blvd Junction), Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila, Philippines

Okay, this would be just an advice to those who take a bus in Metro Manila, most especially city operation buses that ply on EDSA…please make sure that the conductor has already gave you the change…sukli, cambio. Or else, face the consequence of inconveniently going to the bus company’s depot which most likely are located in far flung areas and suburbs!

I got that experience last night, Friday the 13^th. After sleeping less than 4 hours, worked for 8 hours and went on an event and watched movies, I was dead tired. My friend and I were bound on the same bus at EDSA Crossing in Mandaluyong. Good thing there was a bus bound for Dasmarias, Cavite! A relief! Since these buses are rare during late night hours. I paid for our fare, that’s about PhP38 per person from Crossing to Imus, Cavite (x2, that’s about a total of PhP76.00) with a PhP500 bill. It’s a no surprise that the conductor didn’t gave me my change by then since they don’t have enough bills for change or sukli. Ayun, nilagyan nya ng pirma nya at P500 para patunay na meron pa syang kailangang bayaran sa akin. And the bus went off to Cavite…and was filled up to the brim in no time! I was so dead tired that I didn’t realized that we’re in Imus, an hour later…just beyond midnight…tapos, pagbaba ko…dun ko narealize, di pa pala naibibigay sa akin ang sukli ko sa P500 ko!!! It’s quite big since its about 424 pesosesoses!!! Dalawa o tatlong araw na halaga na ng allowance ko…without hesitation, I said to myself….”Pupunta ako sa Lunes sa garahe ng bus na yun!”…It was Friday, obviously a weekend, so I have to wait.

Rush Hour Waiting at a No Loading/Unloading Zone in EDSA-Buendia (south bound), Makati City, Philippines

Monday came, I went to their office. I gave the boletas or tickets to the officer in charge. At first they got confused why are there tickets that have different ticket numbers which is out of sequence…kumbaga, may mga tiket na wala sa series ng ticket number ng sinakyan ko na bus…to my mistake, I mixed up older bus tickets! Kaya nagtagal kami…but the issue was resolved as quickly as possible, thank heavens that manong konduktor was there at the garage. He immediately gave me my change and apologized for inconvenience. On my part, nagpasensya na rin ako at pinahirapan ko pa sila mag-trace. At least that was resolved, but I’ve learned my lesson: always be attentive!

And a lesson, you really have to keep your ticket for inspection…and for ease of transaction between you and the bus company.

Pagsanjan Church, Laguna (Photo by Jeffrey Garcia)

My camera’s dead…malfunctioning upon the time of our arrival at Pagsanjan, Laguna. It was disheartening for my aim was to take the photos of all the towns we pass by during our road trip. Alas, felt with heavy heart. But it’s a good thing my barkada would let me borrow their cameras and photos.

Okay, enough of sentiments. Lets not spoil our trip. Hehe!

Pagsanjan is in eastern Laguna. For the heritage buff, it’s Laguna’s answer to Taal, Batangas and Vigan, Ilocos Sur. For the majority of the Filipinos, it is where that famed Pagsanjan Falls are located (yet technically, like Angono Petroglyphs, its on another town). We had our short stop and parked just in front of the church. While my companions went around the town center and plaza taking pictures of the old heritage structures, I was left at the car, pondering on my malfunctioning camera…but luckily, my companions lend me their cameras for this.

Pueblo Central de Pagsanjan

A lot of us know that Pagsanjan is the home of the Ejercitos and of the Pagsanjan Falls that we see in post cards. A lot of dekada nobenta babies would recognize the place as Tabing Ilog’s location. Definitely, this town besides the river has the natural wonders and the heritage sites that it can boast. Unfortunately, Pagsanjan Falls would take a whole day excursion for us to explore it deep in the mountains.

On the other hand, the heritage houses, dating back from Spanish colonial all the way to American colonial still survives. Upon entering the town from Santa Cruz or Manila (from the west), you’ll be greeted by the Spanish-colonial stone arch. According to a legend, the townsfolk constructed this stone arch in gratitude of Virgen de Guadalupe who miraculously protected the town against the looters or tulisanes. Well, it stands as a monument to its rich glorious past.

While Calle Real is lined up by these old houses, the Church of Pagsanjan, dedicated to the town’s patroness. Although the current church is a reconstruction because the original was destroyed during the “Liberation” in 1945, and as the old people would say that it’s dome dominates its beauty, it is still a manifestation of their Catholic faith. First built under Franciscan friarAgustin de la Magdalena in 1688 and later built in stone and brick stone masonry, the dome was later added by Fray Joaquin Coria.

Of course, its already afternoon and we’re running out of time before the sun sets. We have to reach at least our ultimate destination for the roadtrip, Nagcarlan. I know, I’ll be back in this town, this time with a better camera…but for now, I won’t worry my life away. On to the next stop…”The Hollywood of Laguna…the town of Magdalena.”

Pilipinas: Sa Delubyo at Ligaya

(mula sa The Bamboo Bayou ng berniemack.i.ph – published November 12, 2005)

Filipinos smiling despite the catastrophe (Photo from Felixberto Baguyo Jr.'s Blog http://www.bleuken.com/)

Ang Pilipinas ay itinuturing na isa sa mga pinadelikadong lugar pagdating sa mga sakuna na dulot ng lindol, pagputok ng bulkan, bagyo at iba’t ibang delubyo na dala ng inang kalikasan. Kung tutuusin, binibisita tayo ng humigit-kumulang na 18 o 20 na bagyo kada taon, may habagat na nagdadala ng malakas na bugso ng ulan tuwing Hunyo hanggang Oktubre. Mga lindol na aakalain mong katapusan na ng mundo tulad ng nangyari noong 1990 na sumira sa mga lungsod ng Baguio, Cabanatuan at Dagupan. Akala mo ang dagat dito hindi lumalamon ng lupa, noong 1976 ang Moro Gulf Tsunami ay kumitil ng libo-libong buhay sa baybayin ng Mindanao. Ang pagputok ng Pinatubo ay maituturing isa sa mga pagputok ng ika-20 siglo. Ayoko nang isa-isahin at baka maubos oras ko sa blog.

Sa palagay ko, maaaring dahil sa mga paghihirap nating nararanasan hindi lamang sa lipunan o ekonomiya, kundi sa pagharap sa mga delubyo na maaaring tayong mga tao ang nagdulot o di kaya’y paghihiganti ni Inang Kalikasan, ang nakapagpatibay sa atin habang dumadaan ang panahon. Kung tutuusin, para tayong mga kawayan na kahit anong lakas ng hangin, bumabaluktot lang tayo at hindi napuputol hanggang sa mamatay.

Nasabi nga pala sa Time Magazine noong Enero 2005 na ang Pilipinas daw ay isa sa pinakamasayang bansa sa buong mundo! Nakita ko sa larawan ng artikulong yaon na ang mga bata kahit nasa baha, nakangiti pa rin sa camera. Aba, napansin ko nga pala na kung andyan ang kamera ng media sa mga nasalantang lugar, hindi maiiwasan na ang iba ay kumakayaw sa likod o background ng taga-ulat. Akala mo’y di sila nadaanan ng delubyo! Sanay na si Juan de la Cruz sa mga ganitong pangyayari sa kanyang buhay, kahit mayaman siya o mahirap.

An Ode to Iloilo’s Catastrophe and Recovery

(mula saTragedy and Hope: An Ode to Iloilo’s Catastrophe and Recovery ng habagat.i.ph – published June 24, 2008 )

Storm Fengshen (Frank) ravages Iloilo / Photo by Ricky Alejo | AFP

Saturday, I was at the class. I was informed that Typhoon Frank would probably hit Manila since the public signal warning was at signal number two yet there was sunshine. I didn’t took “Frank” seriously as I thought as earlier foretasted, would evade the Philippines and go to Japan instead, but it made a landfall.

Saturday afternoon after class, me and my friend went to Antipolo to do some research but failed due torrential rains…and this text from one of my best buds shocked me: “Bro, grbe bha sa Pvia, ara sa a2p akn u2d. (Bro, the flood in Pavia was at the worst. My brother was even at the rooftop.)..I was numb. I called my grandmother and she told me that she evacuated our house as half of it was submerged all of the sudden by floodwaters. The appliances and everything has not been saved…She’s all alone. She said that it was the worst flood that hit Pavia in recent memory.

CNN coverage of Fengshen's devastation in Iloilo, Philippines

And as I went home and watched CNN, the scene of Iloilo’s catastrophe was flashed for few minutes…familiar places which traditionally don’t have floods were like Atlantis! Emotionally I was uneasy. I’ve been to the floods of Iloilo, experienced it first hand. But not this devastating.

“]

Fireman and members of a rescue group help an elderly woman out of the Jaro river near Iloilo city, central Philippines June 21, 2008. Typhoon Fengshen killed at least 17 people in floods and landslides in the Philippines and left a ferry adrift with over 700 passengers and crew on Saturday. REUTERS/Stringer [From BuhaysaKorea.com

Mother Nature’s wrath was awesome, I was dumbstruck. Never seen Iloilo this miserable, this state that anyone was caught on a surprise. Disaster!!!

Typhoon Frank floods Diversion Road, Mandurriao, Iloilo City | Photo by The News Today

Despite hell broke loose, I am thankful that my loved ones are Ok. Although my home at Pavia was devastated and appliances were not salvaged, nothing of it could replace the lives of my loved ones who survived the wrath. And although my loved ones survived, I still sympathize and pray for those who lost their relatives and friends, hoping that they would soon recover and see the light behind the dark clouds.

Fellow kasimanwas, we will prevail. Our spirits would not be dampened, yet learned our lesson from this tragedy. We Ilonggos in history has this attitude of never-say-die, we fought for our freedom from the colonists, we’ve thread the murky waters of depression, we stood mighty despite the dethronement, we still stand. This is the time that we can prove that we as Ilonggos are courageous despite our gentleness. Padayon guihapon Ilonggo! Pagkatapos sang sini nga kalaut na aton nga ginabatyag, amo na ni ang tiyempo sang panibag-ong pagsugod!

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And I thought this would be the last time I’ll be ever seeing such disastrous flood like that of Ormoc and Iloilo, but I was wrong…a year later, mud and flood waters swept the our nation’s capital and northern Luzon.

To be continued…

Buendia Avenue, Makati City, Philippines (Photo from Skyscrapercity.com)

26 September 2009 – While working, our office is being bombarded with nature’s fury as Tropical Storm Ondoy unleashes his full fury in Philippines’ capital Manila. While we were busy taking calls, he was busy creating havoc and destruction in Manila that would make Filipinos shocked and awed with nature’s awesome power.

1 PM – Dismissal. The company would like to have their employees be safe at their site, so it was recommended that they wouldn’t leave the premises and would be given food. I decided to just leave since I was so worried with my family in Cavite. I ate a heavy meal before launching a journey in which I would never ever forget in my lifetime. Location: Market Market, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig

2.30PM – Got an approval from my trainer but he reminded me to update him and at the same time, stay safe. I took the Fort Bus from Market Market in Fort Bonifacio Taguig. The driver said that the floods have subsided in some parts but EDSA was still a virtual parking lot for south bound vehicles.

2.45PM – I reached Ayala-EDSA corner. EDSA was at standstill for south bound vehicles while north bound was virtually empty. I tried to ride on a Cavite bound bus but after 15 minutes, I left and diverted to Ayala Avenue towards Buendia. For I thought that there would be an easier way up there going out of Makati through Buendia-LRT and Pasay.

3.00PM – I started walking from Ayala-EDSA through Greenbelt and Glorietta. Some shops were closed. Ayala Avenue was in the field of desolation. It was my first time seeing Makati CBD battered by a storm.

While walking the elevated walkway from Greenbelt to Rufino, Ondong unleashes again his missiles of rain and gusts. I was getting wet, but no bother…I stopped over at a 7-11 convenience store to buy me an energy drink. My motive was to at least walk all the way to Baclaran. And so I went off all the way to Makati Med.

4.00PM – The sky was sinisterly dark and rains still pour as if Chino Roces/Pasong Tamo was flooded. So, I passed through the shanty community near Makati Med which leads toward Buendia. Upon reaching Buendia, I was happy to see that there is a Buendia bus bound for Baclaran but thought why there are no Ayala bound buses around. And so I rode in the bus which was in a standstill for 30 minutes of no movement at all…I paid yet I left the bus afterwards. To my surprise, Buendia-Washington was in a torso-deep flood.

Flooded Street, Manila, Philippines (Photo by Romeo Ranoco-Reuters)

Buendia-Washington area was submerged under flood waters that smelled like oil…really! People made the center islands as their pathway since it’s much higher…but I thought it wouldn’t reach the soles of my feet…but no…it was ankle deep. May mga lugar nga na abot kalahati ng binti na. And everytime there is a vehicle that passes by, waves come crashing our feet…some would lost their balance and fell off to the flood waters. However, smiles and tons of smiles amidst the deluge still prevailed. It made the crossing somehow light and bearable. And for a moment, I thought the flood waters would end just at SLEX…but I was wrong.

4.45PM – Just as I thought that everything was over after 45 minutes of carefully threading the waters of Buendia-Washington towards SLEX, I thought there are no flood waters waiting…but I was wrong. I was about to face the toughest challenge yet…Crossing the waist deep flood waters of SLEX and Buendia all the way to Pasay City boundary! God in heavens name help me I said! But no matter, I said to myself, kakayanin ko poi to sir! With a grin, I started threading the deep waters of Rio Buendia. Never had I lost that sense of humor and smile upon crossing the waters. It’s almost a kilometer or two to cross all the way to Pasay! Despite the difficulty, the people surrounding me never lost hope of reaching their destinations safely…we’ve kept holding on with our dear lives and our sanity…

Just as I thought that I am confident to cross this avenue turned river, the unexpected happened. Cramps! I had cramps in the middle of the waist-deep waters! I was a bit nervous but nevertheless someone heard my prayers…a container truck is managing itself to cross the flood who is bound for Pasay. Four of us rode the backside of the truck. I was still managing my cramps when I started to talk to one of my companions at the truck. She said, “Oo nga, ganito sa Makati! Sana hindi naman ganito ang buong bayan!” I laughed at her remarks. She still managed to create a satire in the middle of the catastrophe.

West Avenue Flooded, Quezon City, Philippines (Photo by: Wally Tiu - Reuters)

We were lucky, we reached Pasay City boundary. We thanked the manong driver. Sana dumami pa ang mga tulad nila!

5.20PM – I reached Pasay Buendia area and gearing towards LRT station. Hahaha! It was also flooded…but unlike Makati, their sidewalks are very uneven and we even took precaution over opened manholes that are existent in the area. And so we moved on.

LRT Buendia Station seems very fine but it was operating. Taft Avenue is another long Venetian canal. I heard that the flood waters stretched from Baclaran all the way to Lawton! That’s the whole length of the avenue!

Anyway, LRT came in at around 5.45PM already. It was jam-packed with drenched and tired people. Upon arriving EDSA Pasay Rotunda station, it was a disaster! Pasay Rotunda, the already chaotic junction of EDSA…was in its eerie silence of vehicular traffic. No wonder, it was also waist deep down there! Good thing MMDA constructed the elevated footbridges!

Pasay Rotunda was also in a virtual standstill. Vehicles cannot push through north bound. No wonder there are no north bound vehicles down at EDSA-Ayala! And so the walk to Baclaran resumes…

6.30PM. Heritage Hotel Area (EDSA corner Roxas Blvd). Upon reaching the area, there was a bus who is bound for Cavite…I thought it would be the end of our kalbaryo! I was already tired but still managing to keep up my spirits high. I paid for my fare our bus was full. Then off we go to Coastal Road.

Along the way, I was quite shocked that Roxas Boulevard and Macapagal Boulevard were also flooded. These areas are not flood-prone areas if I’m not mistaken.

By the time we’ve reached Coastal Mall, the bus turned left towards MIA Road. Macapagal Boulevard just at Marina Village and Sentosia Apartments are also flooded. What?! Those areas are not flood-prone areas and yet binaha pa rin sila?! With that thought plus the fact that the traffic was not moving more than 30 minutes, looks like this is no ordinary flooding of Metro Manila.

7.15PM. I said to manong konduktor, bababa na lang ako. Dami atang naglalakad. And so I did. I disembarked the bus and walked…and was shocked that Coastal Road was dark and virtually a parking lot for south bound vehicles and a runway for north bound vehicles. And as PEATC closed Coastal Road to vehicular traffic, pedestrian traffic became its major concessionaire. Zapote-Talaba, the southern end of Coastal Road, was reported to have been flooded as well. The already notorious traffic of Cavite has another culprit to blame…no, not CTMO, BTMO or Buhos…but literally, buhos or outpouring of flood waters!

7.30PM to 9PM I started walking at Coastal Road from MIA Road junction towards Cavite. Mass exodus of people walking in the darkness, with only their phones lighting up the dark Coastal Road…thank goodness the rain stopped a bit. But the thought of walking all the way to Cavite was unimaginable…not until yesterday!

It’s a good thing that I have people to talk with while walking in the dark. I was not alone. I think there were thousands who were going back to Cavite from Manila. The scene was eerie. It’s as if like Manila was bombarded by an invasion…the scenes of World War 2 were reminiscent as people left by the thousands. Para syang scene sa Independence Day or War of the Worlds!

By the time we’ve reached Longos Junction, traffic was at a virtual standstill. Fast flowing floods are consuming the “Talaba Bottleneck” to its knees…and I mean knee-deep fast flowing flood coming from Zapote. So we need to hang on to vehicles or anything. I reached Talaba-Evangelista Junction (Bacoor Bayan) and the way towards poblacion Bacoor was dark and turned into rapids…Finally I reached Cavite after an hour and a half of walking 6 kilometers of silence, darkness and standstill!

Saint Dominic junction as we call it. It was already 9PM and Tropical Hut was full to the brim…I’m exhausted and hungry. Yet I was still thinking of walking all the way home to Imus…about another 5 kilometers away from here. Aguinaldo Highway was a river of strong waters. Buses and trucks cannot push through because of the deep waters in Talaba-Niog-Panapaan area. By the looks of it, I cannot push through with going through Aguinaldo Highway. I bet its flooded all the way to SM City Bacoor…but that was just an estimate…I turned myself instead towards Molino Boulevard…at least there is a way there to our place.

Ortigas Extention flooded, Pasig City, Metro Manila (Photo by Erik de Castro - Reuters)

And as I crossed the fast-moving waters at the junction, I hanged on with my dear life. Never had I seen this place having deep waters! And at last, I crossed the last “river” and homeward bound. I was desperate; I even told myself if there would be a tricycle or a motorcycle that is willing to send me home at Imus or Bahayang Pag-Asa/Molino. But thank goodness, there is a jeepney bound for Paliparan! And from that point off, it was smooth…except the fact that I was hanging at the back of the jeepney.

9.45PM – I reached Bahayang Pag-asa and called in a tricycle bound to our subdivision in Imus. I was already tired and my body is aching all over. Manong Driver told me that some flood waters reached some areas in Imus and Molino. Areas that are not flood prone.

Finally, I reached home…safely! Wet and tired…I told my mother about the experience that never would I ever forget for the whole lifetime.

If Frank had my hometown devastated, Ondoy did the same for Manila. An event that most people here thought it only happens in other Philippine cities and provinces. The only thing that surfaces is the will to survive…and not only that…but to make happiness out of misery, a strong trait that we Pinoys are made of. There was no looting, no panic, and no kaartehan! There was only the will, the smiles that shone in the darkness and the bayanihan spirit, thought long dead in Manila.

Manila shines through and still gives her friendly grin, courage and care to her people still despite the wrath. And as of my journey, it wasn’t an ordinary one…but a reflection of me and of the society in which I am living with.