Waiting Commuters at Talaba, Bacoor, Cavite -- ang tagal dyan kahit bukana na ng Maynila!

The first is, have you tried combat commuting? I think if you live in Manila, it is essential to know combat commuting. Its a war waged every single weekday in the Philippine capital. The climax of the war at Hell’s Gate? Rush hour madness. Everyday, people try to cram themselves in buses, jeepneys and metros. Well, asi es la vida en Manila! Can’t deal with it? Might as well leave for the provincias.

Now, for a Cavite resident like me, traveling from home to work is a fact of life. Manila has become crowded and the urban expansion reached the doorsteps of its neighboring provinces, one of which is Cavite. There may be 12 million residents in Metro Manila but including the Greater Manila Area (encompassing Cavite, Laguna, Rizal, Bulacan), we may even be comparable with the population of that of Mexico City, Tokyo or Mumbai! Cavite has the largest share of GMA residents–3 million people, tw0-thirds of it lives in towns near Metro Manila and along Aguinaldo Highway–the sole main artery of the province. Three million, the most populous province in the country–and with real estate blooming like lumot in the pond, its like a heart chocked with cholesterol! After all, Cavite IS a bedroom of Metro Manila.

Counterflow or locally known as "Buhos" at Aguinaldo Hghway, Panapaan, Bacoor, Cavite

How does it feel to be a Caviteño commuter? Well, either your still in school or working, you SUFFER the same fate as the rest of Cavite’s commuters, most especially rush hour. How so? Try to imagine yourself, waking up while the sun isn’t yet shining. Took a bath, get dressed and rushed your way to Aguinaldo Highway. Reaching the bus stop, you’ll be with lots of people waiting for the bus to stop for them to ride. Yet, the buses by-pass the said loading and unloading area. You wait, the sun is up, the buses still pass by you, and more people are coming to wait for the bus to ride on. Lawton, Pasay, Buendia, Cubao, Baclaran, Ayala, Ortigas–San Agustin, Jasper Jean, Solid Star, Erjohn and Almark and a lot more bus companies, just–don’t mind you guys at the bus stop at all. Weird no? Why? Because these buses are already full to the brim! Malapit nang magsuka ang mga bus sa sobrang puno, di na nagpapasakay ang mga tsuper ng bus!

Traffic Congestion near SM Bacoor

Then luckily, you rode a bus…but damn! It’s butt-cramped! You can kiss the windshield or make manyak to the person beside you. The only thing that separates us from sardine cans would be the sauce! You have to be an expert in yoga to perform such positions far too uncomfortable for a morning ride! As we went by, we’ve passed by several bus stops along the way…pity, the commuters have been waiting and will be waiting for a bus to ride on. Punong-puno ang sidewalks ng mga mag-kokomyut.

Ooops…its not the end. Then, you came near Bacoor Rotonda–that’s in SM Bacoor, the traffic halted and you’ve waited…and waited…and waited…and waited…until the bus driver went down to puff some cigarettes while…waiting. 20 to 30 minutes later, you’re still waiting…until…swoosh!!! BUHOS TAYM!!! The Manila-bound cars and vehicles head for a mad dash towards Coastal Road…to escape the agony of waiting and the hell called Aguinaldo Highway! You’re lucky if you caught the first hour counter-flow…because it runs all the way to Coastal Road. By around 7AM, its good luck to you! Hephep! Kala ko bawal na ang counterflow sabi ni President Noy? Hehe!

As we reached Coastal Road, as if it was reaching nirvana! Usually, Coastal Road during early mornings is a paradise to motorists. Except for the toll plaza of course. If Aguinaldo Highway was hell, Coastal Road was salvation!

Caviteños have lived for this kind of life for more than a decade already. I can still clearly remember that rush hour traffic was only up to the Revilla residence in Bacoor. But now, it goes as far as Anabu in Imus! That’s umm, almost 10 kilometers of traffic congestion…of hell on earth! No traffic travel time from Anabu to Longos Junction in Coastal Road, less than 30 minutes. Travel time during rush hours, a lovely 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the “mood.”

Approaching Longos Junction in Bacoor Cavite, nearing Coastal Road -- the Gates of Heaven and Hell!

For now, we have to deal with it. Finding innovative ways so that we wouldn’t be scolded by our professors and bosses. But we pray for so long, sana naman may magawa naman para sa mga komyuter ng Cavite!

The morbid fact: CAVITE LACKS URBAN PLANNING OR IS THERE?! It’s a mess! And the residential areas are still growing while the infrastructure for roads and public transport is snail-paced! What the?! Haven’t they forgotten that eating too much pork is dangerous to Cavite’s health?! The incoming flux of migrants, residential and industrial developments of this province is clogging the arteries…and I have no idea if the body of the province, the local officials, are doing any drastic measure to change Cavite’s lifestyle…pero parang di masyadong maramdaman! Daang Hari and Molino Boulevard may be there but it’s not enough for the three million souls to move along! Regarding public transport, LRT South Extension project has been shelved–I heard about that crap since I was GRADE 5! For those who want the Coastal Road Extension to be stopped–kayo lang ba ang babara sa ugat namin dahil sa mga tahong at talaba? May mga ibang trabaho din naman po sa paligid, kumilos naman po tayo at huwag masyadong umasa palagi sa gobyerno! Pigilan nyo ang extension project at 2 milyong katao ang mas maapektuhan!

Coastal Road in Parañaque City -- Its mostly light to moderate traffic on early mornings except the toll plaza and Mia Road junction

It is something that the new leader, Jonvic Remulla, and the rest of the Cavite’s politicos should think and act about swiftly and wisely. There will come a time when the present “Buhos” system wouldn’t work anymore! What’s with being the most urbanized if we don’t have the proper infrastructure? As early as now, the province is already showing urban decay–this early! With the new president installed, I hope they should start acting up…before its too late. Cavite is already heading for a cardiac arrest!

Now, how does it feel being a commuter from Cavite? Ask me, that’s me on the photo.

I say, mabuhay ang mga bagong bayani ng Kabite! Mabuhay ang mga dakilang komyuter ng Kabite!

To Lucban!

Well, I guess I was excited back then. It was my first time going to Lucban for Pahiyas Festival. The feast that I could only see on telly or on books. I’ve seen Sinulog, Dinagyang and Masskara for countless times already but this crowning jewel of Quezon Province’s feasts is something that I would look forward into. Such colourful and attractive feast has made me like a bee, attracted to the colour of the kipings and revelry. It was my first time going there and I’ll be commuting. May 15 is a notorious date to any commuter or motorist going south, as horrific stories of traffic jams linger. But I dared!

Which is which?

I called in the Quezon Provincial Tourism Office and sought advise on what’s the best route going to Lucban. My friends from Quezon and the tourism people have a unanimous answer: Go Laguna-Pagsanjan instead!

Here’s why:

The Notorious Traffic at Lucban

1. We all know that Lucban is in Quezon Province and the main route is through Maharlika Highway which passes through San Pablo City in Laguna and towns of Tiaong, Sariyaya, Candelaria and of course Lucena City, the kabisera. Well, they’ve warned me of the infamous traffic that said to have spanned all the way to Laguna (San Pablo). Reason: Tiaong and Sariyaya have their own version of Pahiyas fiesta. Expect traffic that may last for hours for the whole day. Commuters and motorists are advised to avoid the Maharlika Highway route unless visiting the affected towns or necessary. Much better if mapa-aga na lang kayo pumunta ng Bicol o Lucena.
2. The Laguna Route, which passes by Santa Cruz and Pagsanjan, is the easiest and fastest way to go to Lucban. Besides that there are no feasts in this side, the distance to Manila is much closer. It only takes an hour or less to travel by jeepney from Santa Cruz to Pagsanjan.

So obviously we went on the easier one.

A long and winding road to Pahiyas

Bus Arriving at Santa Cruz Laguna

Travel Log:

• 15 May 2010 | 02:30AM – My friend and I arrived at the Green Star bus terminal at Taft Avenue corner Buendia in Pasay City. It was too early. The guard told us that the first trip leaves the terminal by 3:30AM. So we went to KFC and have our late midnight snack/early breakfast.

Note: There are several bus companies that serve Manila-Santa Cruz route: Green Star (Pasay City terminal/Aircon bus), HM Transport (Cubao Bus Terminal/Aircon bus) and Calamba Megatrans (Alabang Bus Terminal/Ordinary/Non-Air Conditioned bus).

• 15 May 2010 | 03:00AM – The bus is parked and calling in for passengers. Good! We sat comfortably.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:15AM – Whoa! Was there a group booking. A bunch of excursionists went into the bus…At this rate, we’ll be leaving early! The bus is almost full…5 minutes later, the last seat was occupied.
• 15 May 2010 | 03:30AM – We left Pasay and bound for Santa Cruz
• 15 May 2010 | 03:45AM – We have encountered traffic somewhere between Bicutan and Sucat. Skyway construction on-going. We were stuck in the traffic for 30 minutes…ang aga naman ng trapik sa SLEX!
• 15 May 2010 | 04:20AM – We finally made it out of the traffic but saw this huge fire engulfing some houses in Muntinlupa. Only later to find out that it was one of the worst fire disasters in Muntinlupa City.
• 15 May 2010 | 05:00AM – Finally, we reached Calamba City. Ang aga ng trapik dito! The narrow roads and on-going developments (there is a SM mall being constructed near the public market. Good luck for the traffic though).
• 15 May 2010 | 05:30AM – We were in College, Laguna (UPLB junction)
• 15 May 2010 | 05:45AM – We passed by the town of Pila. For the first time, I saw the old houses and heritage buildings in this town. I’m planning to go back here sometime soon.
• 15 May 2010 | 06:15AM – Finally, we reached Santa Cruz. We have to take a ride through a jeepney (a big one) to Lucban. At pila ng bigas ang scenario! The bus stops over at the junction where Lucban-bound jeepneys are parked. Just tell the conductor to advise you to bring you to the jeepney terminal. Most likely, the bus conductor would mention it anyway.

Jeepney bound for Lucban

And those who dared! I wish I was there, hehe!

• 15 May 2010 | 06:20AM – We left Santa Cruz and passed by Pagsanjan. Off we go up in the mountains between Laguna and Quezon Provinces.

Pagsanjan Gate

The Long and Winding Road from Pagsanjan to Lucban

Passing by Pagsanjan Church

• >> Note: Nakakatakot ang daanan! The jeepney was full to the brim, and we have people on the rooftop! The curves were sharp and ravine is just beyond the road gutter!Yet, fear was replaced with appreciation of nature and the sun rising in the east. The air was cool and crisp. May nagpa-andar ba ng aircon? The cool air would remain all the way to Lucban for the rest of the day! Sarap naman! Refreshing!
• 15 May 2010 | 06:40AM – Passed by the town of Cavinti in Laguna

Luisiana Plaza

• 15 May 2010 | 06:50AM – Passed by the town of Luisiana in Laguna (take note of the pronunciation: “Luwisyana”…you might thought its the State of Louisiana in US).

Inside the jeepney

• 15 May 2010 | 07:00AM – Crossed the border of Quezon and Laguna! Yehey! And Mount Banahaw welcomes us!

Bawal na ang Jeepney sa loob ng bayan ng Lucban! Tricycles line up for passengers bound for Lucban's town proper

• 15 May 2010 | 07:15AM – Junction Lucban. Jeepneys are not allowed to enter the town proper. Nagsisimula na! So we rode a tricycle that brought us all the way to San Luis Obispo Parish Church (or Lucban Church). We were just in time for the first activity of the day: The religious procession!

Procession of San Isidro Labrador at Lucban

Its just the start of my Pahiyas de Lucban experience…something that I wouldn’t forget! Mga wala kaming tulog pero nagsisimula pa lang ang araw namin.

Transportation fare:

Okay, for those budget-conscious or just plain cheap, here are the fares:

• Pasay City to Santa Cruz, Laguna (Air-conditioned bus) – PhP149.00 (US$3.00)
• Santa Cruz, Laguna to Lucban, Quezon (jeepney) – PhP45.00 (US$1.00)

More photos here:

Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives

Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

In observance of the Holy Week, HabagatCentral.com would embark on a journey similar to the Filipino tradition during these reflective times. With seven churches visited within the past three weeks in Batangas and Iloilo, tara na at bumisita tayo sa mga simbahan. More than just sites of Filipino religiosity, but also a mirror of the richness of Filipino culture and heritage. Our first stop: Batangas!

It was one hot summer Sunday when my family and I went on to Batangas. Just for a change of environment, especially church days, we went off to Taal. I’ve been here several times but I wanted to bring my family to this famed heritage village. Instead of heading to Pink Sisters in Tagaytay, we decided to go to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay—believed to be the patroness of the Batanguñeos.

Caysasay Belfry

The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay is found besides Pansipit River, just at the foot of the hillside town proper of Taal. The Shrine was believed to be where the image of the Virgin Mary was found amongst the casay-casay or kingfishers, sitting on a sampaguita bush.

The Legend of Juan Maningcad and The Blessed Virgin Mural

According to a legend, in 1603 at the town of Taal, a fisherman named Juan Maningcad found a six-inch image of Our Lady of Caysasay grabbed by his fishing net. Awe-stricken by its aura and presence, Maningcad began to praise the image and returned it home. Having learned the account, the priest of the town went to Maningcad’s house and requested that the image be venerated and celebrated a feast. From then on, under the guardianship of Madam Maria Espiritu, the image frequently disappeared. In 1611, the “Lady” was found on top of a sampaguita bush surrounded by kingfisher birds. Also, there were recorded miraculous appearances by the Lady and has done miraculous things. The people believed that the Lady would like to have her shrine built in the place where she was found, therefore the construction of the Shrine.

Ang Birhen ng Caysasay

The news spread like wildfire, first within Batangas, then beyond.

Inside the "pyramidical dome" of Caysasay Shrine

Up to this day, Batangueno Catholics go here and pay homage to the image of Caysasay. Believed to be miraculous, the image is located at the retablo in the church. Pilgrims have the chance to touch the image’s hair by going to the stairs behind the shrine.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Stairway

I have been here before, passing through Taal town proper then down to the grand staircase linking the uphill poblacion to Caysasay Shrine. Built during the Spanish colonial era, the grand stairway of San Lorenzo Ruiz is one major pedestrian link from the Basilica to the Shrine. Good exercise area too!

Our Lady of Caysasay Seal at the pediment of the shrine

Anyway, while I was taking a photo of candles at the front of the shrine, a local approached me and asked “Nakapunta na ba po kayo sa may balon?” I said, I haven’t. She replied, “dun po kasi huling nakita ang Mahal na Birhen, sana po pumunta po kayo din doon.” I wish I had the luxury of time–the Santa Lucia Wells, as they say, is worth exploring.

Red candles with a human figure

Something tells me that I’ll be returning in this shrine over and over again. Although small as compared to the Basilica just a few metres away, it still maintains its charm to be one of Batangas’s most significant religious places.

Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine Retablo

Next stop: That grand Basilica uphill! Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours–said to be the largest of its kind in Asia!

Inside The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

More photos of Caysasay, Basilica, Batangas and more here:

The Balisong family

Sinong Pinoy ba ang di nakakikilala sa balisong? Perhaps, there is no dagger as (in)famous in Philippine pop culture as balisong. The small, light and foldable dagger is really easy for anyone to hide it in their pockets—that is why it’s a crowd favourite. Being a “star” in Gus Abelgas’s show in the crime scene, balisong’s infamous legacy has developed a stereotypical image that “if you have a balisong, you’re feared by anyone.” Wow, seems that Panday has met his match! But people still wonder where does balisong came from, and they’ll soon find out that its origins are from the Land of A’la eh!

Welcome to Barangay Balisong, Taal, Batangas!

Balisong is a barangay in the heritage town of Taal in the province of Batangas. With more than 2,800 souls living, it’s only about two hours away from Manila via Tagaytay or even through SLEX. Kapeng barako may be strong but true enough, this province forged by fire has a fiery product that most Pinoys either feared or praised—the balisong. In other words, that famous “butterfly dagger” comes from Barangay Balisong, hence the name.

Balisong daggers

Along the highway going up north of the town proper of Taal (only a few metres away from the historic town center), you’ll see several stores along the highway, selling different kinds of balisong—and its affordable too! May Tatay, Nanay, Ate, Kuya, lolo o lola na balisong and whole lot more! Whew! Talk about expanded family!  Passers-by may want to purchase a key chain with a balisong for PhP50 (less than a dollar) or all the way to the size of a Japanese katana (or we know it as “samurai sword”). The handles come in at different colours and designs—choose what fits your lifestyle.

I look at Balisong as somewhat like a swordsman’s town. Seemingly, this would reflect perhaps on the warrior society of the Tagalogs and the courageous attitude of the Batangueños. This is the barangay’s main product, and people make swords and daggers for a living. I might even seek Batangas’s own Hatori Hanzo here (see Kill Bill)!

Balisong For Sale!

Unfortunately, I really don’t have the luxury of time to ask the sentiment of the people of Balisong on their product and their place’s name associated with dagger on a crime scene. However, the way I see it, this swordsman’s community testifies the fine craftsmanship and creativity of the Batanguñeos—a dagger that may rival Japan’s katana. Just take care and be responsible in handling balisong—it does wield power over life and death.

More Balisong and Batangas trip photos here:

Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Philippines

You haven’t been to Vigan if you didn’t set on foot at Calle Crisologo. This is the heart and soul of Spanish colonial Philippine village of Vigan. This brought the city to its prestige as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Indeed, Calle Crisologo, or sometimes called Vigan Heritage Village, transports people back into time when the Philippines was under Madre España.

The streetscape, spanning from Burgos Plaza towards Liberation Avenue, is lined with old bahay-na-bato houses, mostly made of brick or stone at the ground floor and hard wood on its second floor. The complete row of aged ancestral houses survived the onslaught of Mother Nature, wars and Father Time himself. Most of the roofs of the houses though are made of galvanized iron, only a few still use tejas or tiles.

The street is paved in cobblestone, much like any old urban cores during the Spanish colonial era. It is a vestige of colonial Europe in Asian setting.

A Calle Crisologo antique shop

As mentioned earlier, the bahay-na-bato houses are made of stone, brick or masonry in the first level while the second floor, made of hard wood. Houses back then were like this since they use the first floor, not as a residential floor, but as a bodega and garaje for their calesas. Some make their ground level floors as commercial shops. The second floor on the other hand was used as the residential area. It seems to have brought the bahay kubo aspect.

Hero, the calesa horse, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Our calesa stopped here. I was amazed with the number of heritage houses…the streetscape…everything! As if I was brought back a hundred years ago…minus the tourists though.

House under renovation, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Today, Calle Crisologo is frequently used as a shooting location for local films and TV shows. I saw this at Marilou Diaz-Abaya’s film “Jose Rizal” and CCP’s “Noli me Tangere” series. The well-preserved streetscape and houses has brought tourists by the thousands every year. Houses were turned into antique shops or commercial establishments. It gave jobs to local Bigueños and Ilocanos and has boosted Vigan’s economy and commerce. Although the presence of tourists has brought “artificiality” in the area, this proves that old houses can be used for today’s benefit. Not only it teaches us our history and heritage as a Filipino nation, but on how we can create a sustainable living with our heritage held high!

It’s 11:30AM. Time to hit the road again and go back to Manila…(passing by La Union province though for a brief visit). We bid our cucheros farewell at Burgos Plaza, paid them and thanked them for their service. I shall return! Veni Vidi Vicci Vigan!

More photos of Calle Crisologo here:

View Larger Map

Calesa de Vigan

I’ve reiterated before that we only have a short half-day stay in Vigan City in Ilocos Sur. Bitin! But I’ve enjoyed it a lot…that I’m craving for coming back at Vigan in the near future. The laidback and charming heritage city in fairness can be toured within half-a-day, just like what we did last year…with several stops, appreciating Vigan’s nostalgic beauty. Tok-tok-tok-tok, the stomping of horses surrounds the city, somehow giving an ambiance of going back through time…Vigan in a calesa tour.

Plaza Salcedo & Plaza Burgos: Starting Lap

We’ve started the day at Plaza Salcedo, the largest plaza in town. (See related article of Plaza Salcedo) I’ve appreciated the beauty of the heart of Vigan’s power and urbanity. Plaza Salcedo has a wide plaza with a lagoon. Surrounding it is: the provincial capitol, the city hall, and the cathedral, Plaza Maestro shopping arcade and One Mart. Like every Philippine town, the plaza is the most important place during the Spanish colonial era.

Plaza Salcedo, Vigan, Ilocos Sur

On the other hand, Plaza Burgos is located on the southern side of the Cathedral and north of the Vigan Heritage Village of Calle Crisologo. It’s smaller yet it’s a venue for socio-civic activities. It is also here were you can find tourist calesas or horse-drawn carriages. And guess what, the cucheros or calesa-drivers are honest (and I like it!). No hidden fees, they’ll say the price of half-a-day tour around downtown Vigan straightforward. And guess what, its only P250 for the 2 hour trip (8am to 10am)! Incredibly cheaper than their Manila counterparts! And they’re friendly too. Nasingpet ti cucheros!

Along the way to Burnayan

Up ahead, Padre Burgos Museum

Vigan is like just any other Philippine city beyond its heritage charm. I really love the laidback atmosphere as we passed by the Capitolio and through Padre Burgos’s old house. In fairness for Vigan, despite the encroachment of modernity, calesas are still part of the public mode of transportation although they cater more to tourist nowadays. Bigueños on the other hand use tricycles or walking. The streets are narrow, a sign of being an old city planned during the time of the Spanish colonial era.

Burnayan

The burnayan or pottery place is a one stop shop for pottery and any souvenirs from Vigan. It is located at the corner of Liberation Boulevard and Gomez Street.

Burnays of Vigan

Burnay – Ilocano for pot(s). Vigan’s own pot and clay jars…big clay jars I mean. Creating one takes time and skill…with earth forged with water and hardened by fire. It is a distinct mark of the Bigueos.

Liberation Boulevard

Quite a unique name though. This boulevard runs through east to west. It is one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares. It connects the commercial district at Quezon Avenue, the city’s public market, the old cemetery, Vigan Heritage village in Calle Crisologo and the residential areas. A number of bus stations such as Domimion, Partas and Farias pass by this street. This boulevard is usually packed with tricycles, cars and calesas. This is the only area in Vigan where you could experience that traffic congestion that only big cities offer.

Traffic congestion near Vigan Public Market

One landmark in this boulevard though is the old cemetery of Vigan locally called as Bassit Cemetery and the capilla/camposanto. The old graveyard site, along with its baroque chapel, still functions as one of Bigueos’ resting place. The camposanto is whitewashed and the graveyard is still surrounded by its Spanish colonial stone fences. It’s giving a taste of what Philippines were a century ago.

Cemetery Chapel of Bassit (Simbaan a Bassit), Vigan City

Vigan City Public Market / Tiendahan

Locally called “Tiendahan,” this is Vigan’s central public market. This is where you can virtually buy almost any delicacy that Ilocanos can offer. We bought our bagnet here (dried pork deep fried) as well as the sukang Iloko (Ilocano rice vinegar).

Vigan City Public Market

Museo Crisologo

We’re on our way to Calle Crisologo. But before that street, we passed by another Crisologo place in Vigan…which is just along Liberation Boulevard. The ancestral house of the powerful Crisologo clan was turned into a museum. The house, home of solon Floro Crisologo, features the family’s photos, memorabilia and the display on his assassination in 1970s by unknown gunmen. Floro was one of those who worked towards enacting the Tobacco Law (Ilocos’s famed cash crop is tobacco) and the establishment of SSS or Social Security System in the Philippines.

Outside Museo Crisologo

After that brief visit in one of the houses of Vigan’s prominent families, we’re on our way to Calle Crisologo…the climax of the calesa trip at Vigan.

And…it’s just only past ten in the morning! I just love the crisp Ilokano weather!

Wen Manong! Speaketh and ye shall receiveth bargaineth!

Our mamang cuchero in Vigan

Looking for bargain in Ilocos? I know Ilocano is one of the most difficult languages that I have to learn (despite that my lineage is also of Ilocano blood…mom’s Ilocana) but just only say these words and your wallet’s wounds shall be healed:

Buy – Gumatang.

How much is it? – Mano daytoy?

Can you lower the price? Mabalin nga ilaklakam basit ti presyo na manang/manong/adding? (manong, manang or adding refers to the person).

Cheap – Nalaka.

Expensive – Nagngina met.

Thanks – Agyamanak; Thank you very much – agyamanak unay.

I hope these words can bring you bargain souvenirs.

More photos here of Museo Crisologo Inside:

And through the streets of Vigan:

And the Calesa Route that we took a year ago:


View Vigan Calesa Route in a larger map

Manila’s MRT (EDSA Metro Rail Transit/Blue Line) will be rocked from December 6 to December 8 every 2PM as Rock Ed Philippines presents Rock the Riles 2009. 8 MRT stations would join this activity in order to raise and create awareness among the Filipinos of the United Nations’ Millenium Development Goals (MDGs) and for commemorating and seeking justice for the “Maguindanao Martyrs.”

MRT Taft Avenue Station - One of the venues for Rock the Riles 2009

The gigs would simultaneously be held at 8 stations of the MRT representing the 8 MDGs of UN. The stages are at:

• Taft Station – Eradication of Poverty and Hunger
• Quezon Avenue – Universal Primary Education
• Shaw Boulevard Station – Gender Equality
• North Station – Child Mortality
• Boni Station – Maternal Health
• Buendia Station – Combat and prevention of AIDS, Malaria and other diseases
• Cubao Station – Sustainable Environment
• Ayala Station – Global Relation

Performing artists would be Up Dharma Down, Sandwich, Paramita, Radioactive Sago Project, The Ambassadors, Cambio, Imago, Noel Cabangon, Paolo Santos and so much more. There is also a cinemafest dedicated to the late Alexis Tiuseco, one of Philippines’ film critic at Quezon Avenue Station. And visual art exhibit at the North Avenue Station.

It’s also a gathering of artists who would dedicate their performances to the slain media men and innocent lives of the recent Maguindanao massacre. RockEd 2009 seek for justice for those who were slain in one of the worst election-related violence in Philippine history. Donations would be accepted and would be given to the grieving families.

So from Sunday to Wednesday afternoons, the MRT and its stations would be filled with music…for achieving the goals for the Filipino and fighting for justice for the slain innocents. Justice we beg! Rock the Riles!

For more information, log on to their website at: http://www.rockedphilippines.org/

Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

It was my first time conquering Ilocos Sur, the land of my ancestors (mother side). My primary aim there together with my family was to have the grasp of the heritage that our Filipino ancestors left during the Spanish colonial era. Vigan City was one of them of course, but I have set my eyes towards one of the four baroque churches inscribed in the World Heritage List, the Santa Maria Church or Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de la Asuncion (Simbahan iti Asunta sa Ilokano).

The Grand Staircase at the Northwestern Flanks of Santa Maria Church

The Church of Santa Maria or sometimes called Santa Maria de Assunta Church is found at the town of Santa Maria in the province of Ilocos Sur, about an hour away from Vigan City. This magnificent ancient structure is located in the town’s narrow hill overlooking the poblacion (town proper) and its vast plains and hills. The church compound is made up of the church itself, the belfry and the convent in front of it. If you are a Kapamilya fan, you should’ve seen this in their soap opera “Panday.”

Santa Maria Church Hexagonal Belfry, where Jericho Rosales pulled out Panday's sword.

Built starting in 1810, it was believed to be the place where the Blessed Virgin’s image was frequently found after series of disappearance during the Spanish colonial period. (Sounds very familiar to other stories in the islands as well.) The church was made by the Ilocanos under the supervision of the Agustinian friars (therefore it’s an Agustinian church, same as with the rest of UNESCO’s baroque churches in the country!). The church is dedicated to its patroness Our Lady of Assumption or La Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.

Just me and Santa Maria church

Upon entering the church, you’ll be greeted by a grand flight of staircases towards the church on top of the hill. It has 83 steps so better have your bottled water ready for those who haven’t had an exercise in a long time!

Grand Staircase of Santa Maria Church

The church itself is narrow, made up mostly of red bricks, stone and lime. In detail, the church’s decors on the wall have its floral design. The façade itself, although not intricate, yet simply has a rectangle column with massive circular buttresses on its side soaring towards the urn finials on the top of the pediment. The façade of the church is blocked by a bridge linking the church and the convent some few meters away. The buttresses on its sides serve as its protection against possible collapse. On its northwestern walls, there is a mural of Our Lady…but I heard that this is somehow a more recent addition to the church and not during the construction of the church itself. The narrowness of the hill has somehow made this impressive and massive structure a bit smaller compared to its sisters in Ilocos. However, this factor was one of the reasons why it is one of the most outstanding in its simplicity of its baroque features.

The more recent addition of the relief of Our Lady of Assumption in Santa Maria Church's walls

The hexagonal belfry on the other hand is separated from the church itself. One popular theory states that the parish priests tend to move away the belfries to avoid major damages during earthquakes which rattle the country.  It was later remodeled however it began to lean after the foundations have settled…well a bit leaning but it’s still safe to go there though.

The eastern staircase leading to an abandoned Spanish colonial era cemetery, Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur

Because of its uniqueness in execution of the baroque architecture, culture and historical value, it was designated as a national landmark by the National Historical Institute during 1970’s and was finally designated as part of the World Heritage List by 1994. Truly, it is a landmark that Ilocanos are proud and behold of. Too bad I had a short time and the church was closed…haven’t seen the interiors of the church.

The UNESCO World Heritage Marker at Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur...and its fading!

Going there:

We went there upon returning from our trip to Vigan. Again, its about an hour away either by private or public buses. The most convenient way for you to access Santa Maria are Ilocos-bound buses such as Farias, Partas, Viron bus lines that serve either Laoag, Vigan in Ilocos or Bangued in Abra.  The fare directly to Santa Maria is probably approximately between PhP 400 to PhP 500 one way and its about 7 hours trip from Manila. (Well, last year, it was a grueling 14 hour ride, almost all of the cars in Metro Manila I think left for the provinces, and major traffic jams that lasted for miles occurred in Dau, Tarlac and most especially Rosales-Villasis-Urdaneta area!)

View of Santa Maria town proper and several of its seven hills

More photos here on this slideshow:

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery, Laguna

As we ended our Laguna Lake Loop tour, we reached the rustic yet remarkable town of Nagcarlan. Much busier than Liliw perhaps, because it was 5PM and people are flocking the church for the afternoon mass. The air was cool and we had some sprinkles of mountain drizzle while the sun sets. The town of Nagcarlan is about 30 minutes away from San Pablo City in Laguna, the famed “City of Seven Lakes.” We visit two of its famed sites, the church and its underground cemetery.

Iglesia de San Bartolome

Now, this church certainly looks familiar. If you are a Vilmanian and perhaps a kapamilya fan, most likely you saw this church in Pablo S. Gomez’s “Kampanerang Kuba,” our country’s very own “Hunchback of Notre Dame.” The only difference was, its either Ate Vi or Anne Curtis who played a role…definitely female!

San Bartolome Church, Nagcarlan, Laguna

The church itself was established by the Franciscan friar Tomas de Miranda made of light materials in the 16th century. In 1752, a church of brick and stone was built yet it was partially damaged by fire in almost thirty years later. It was reconstructed and added its distinctive choirloft by Father Vicente Velloc. It was declared a historical site by the Philippine government (well, before it was a Commonwealth under Uncle Sam) in 1938.

Historical Marker of Nagcarlan Church

Baroque and grey is its main feature with hints of red bricks, unlike its Liliw counterpart which is covered by all bricks. The church convent is attached on its northern flanks and the belfry itself…which is a landmark in my opinion…with its ummm…peculiar red roof.

Nagcarlan Church Convent

While my companions were spread out taking photos of the church, I myself was satisfied with the facade and the ongoing mass. Oh by the way, did I mentioned Velloc earlier?

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan

I know Todos Los Santos was several days ago but hey, this cemetery is one true blue heritage landmark of the Tagalogs…and something unique.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Camposanto

The Underground Cemetery of Nagcarlan was built under the supervision of none other than the Franciscan missionary Vicente Velloc in 1851. The same priest who expanded San Bartolome de Nagcarlan Church and convent. And during the Philippine Revolution, the leaders of the Laguna revolt secretly held meetings here…I mean below, not six feet under though.

Twilight is fast approaching and we were just in time to see Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery before going home. Unfortunately it wasn’t open. Hanggang gate lang kami but again, the sky gave us a beautiful painting with the old camposanto made of brick, stone and lime from the distance. The red brick aisle towards the camposanto (chapel) is surrounded by verdant grass not meant to be stepped upon. And the walls where the dead rests exudes creepiness…but again, mas marami daw multo sa simbahan kaysa sa sementeryo.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery Gate

The cemetery itself sits beside the uphill climb of the national road going to San Pablo City, you wouldn’t miss it. Just take a jeepney ride from San Pablo City and you’ll surely pass by. For people bringing their cars, good luck because there are no parking spaces available except the road sides itself. And basically the underground cemetery is taken care of by the National Historical Institute and is open everyday…8am to 5pm, the usual government office work plus weekends.

Condo for the dead?, Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery | Photo by Christian Bederico

And a tip…here’s another peculiar rule: “Professional photography for commercial purposes is not allowed (people sometimes discriminate pro-photographers and dSLR camera users) BUT personal photos can be taken (and yes, the handy dandy point and shoot cameras are most welcome).” – Sounds familiar Angono?

Twilight in Nagcarlan | Photo by Christian Bederico

Anyway, our visita iglesia for that summer was over. And as we bid our paalam to Nagcarlan, the Santacruzan frenzy was over the air as we passed by the town of Rizal and its barangays full of marching ladies and gentlemen with lights on their hands…truly, the feast and the tradition still lingers in the Tagalog Republic of Laguna and Rizal…just a few miles away from cosmopolitan Manila. Again, I’ll come back…with a better camera in handy.

Thats us last summer. Me and my barkada in Nagcarlan Laguna!