The armada of floating rafts ashore Matabungkay Beach

Vivid memories of summer of my childhood. Floating rafts at the sea while watching the sunset over the western horizon. This is how I remember the ever famous beach of Matabungkay in Batangas Province. Tagal na pala nun! The last way I went here, it was during my childhood days. I remember eating our merienda to dinner in the middle of the sea…err, just a few meters off shore actually. Together with my family, I was reunited with the pigment of my past.

Matabungkay Beach is situated at the town of Lian (nope, its not Nasugbu which is north of the town), more than a hundred kilometers south of busy Manila. Passing through the panoramic Tagaytay and down into the foothills of  Batulao and Pico de Loro, Matabungkay was 0nce one of the most popular recreational sites near the big city. Because of its easy accessibility from the capital and the rest  of the Region Tagala, it became a tourist fave. Kaya pag-weekend, dagsa ang mga tao dito, mula noon hanggang ngayon!

The floating cottage raft of Matabungkay

What made Matabungkay distinct from other beach destinations in the country? Well, we all know that beaches here in the Philippines have cottages at the beach coast right? Matabungkay offers something different–floating cottage rafts a few meters of the coast. Yes mi cmpadres y compadrinas! Tama narinig nyo. Cottages are floating at the sea! You get to experience eating at the sea. Roast your barbecue, seafood and have your picnic offshore and just swim just beside your cottage! No need to endure running the sandy shores just to get your refreshment under the sun and salt water! Andyan lang ang tubig sa tabi ng cottage mo!

Nope, hindi sya na-Ondoy. He's just selling ice cream to customers at the floating cottage rafts

Banana Boat anyone?

Don’t panic! The shores are shallow enough for a grown-up man to stand. Of course, safety first. Have a life vest or salbabida–pero wag naman yung built-in na sa katawan mo ah!

Like any popular beaches in the islands, it has its own share of water and dry activities. You can rent a jetski (I don’t know the price) or your own pedal-powered boat for P200 per hour per person. What I took though was that banana boat experience for umm, P200 for 15-minute ride-to-experience-thrill-falling-at-the-sea activity. If those doesn’t sound interesting, try singing your hearts out at the nearest videoke–basta walang ‘My Way’ at “Skyline Pigeon.”

Cottages crowding at Matabungkay Beach's shore

This is Matabungkay Beach Today

However, over the years, the beach became overcrowded. Due to its over-popularity, urban growth has somehow became uncontrolled. The view of the sea from the coastal road that runs through Matabungkay is no more. The coastline is full of structures of concrete and makeshift houses. And the once tranquil and relaxing beach is now like Boracay or Copacabana–crowded. Even the floating cottages crowd the shores now–therefore its difficult to maneuver your floating raft at sea!

Summer Girls at Matabungkay

I even saw a discarded floating diaper while swimming. For crying out loud, can you just practice being a responsible and mature citizen of this republic! Kung kanino man yun, nanay naman huwag ka namang burara! Di lang kalikasan ang napapahamak! Pano kung ikaw ang nasampal ng diaper sa mukha no? Anong pakiramdam ‘nay?!

Talk about dating far from the crowd!

Despite its shortcomings, I still would go back to this beach. I just hope that Ate Vi, the local government and/or the Tourism Department to execute proper  urban planning in this place in order to promote sustainable growth of tourism and environment–wag na po sanang humantong sa isa nanamang sakit ng ulo tulad ng Boracay.

Fortune Island looming over the horizon. Beneath the sea lies the shipwreck of the Spanish galleon San Diego

Too bad, we need to leave before sunset. We have to rush to Taal to visit the Sanctuario de Virgen de Caysasay to fulfill the Sunday obligation. As the sun sets over South China Sea, that vivid memory of orange and pink gave me a flashback of my childhood memories. As we leave the beach and headed inland, the escort of hundreds of fire trees gave a fiery and breathtaking colour of the afternoon. Indeed, Matabungkay still lives in my memory…and its nice to be back once more.

P.S. There is something with the official barangay emblem…hehe!

The barangay seal of Matabungkay, Lian, Batangas...something peculiar, hehe!

More photos of Matabungkay Beach and Western Batangas here:

Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours - Taal Batangas

Standing 96 metres long and 45 metres wide, the Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours is said to be the largest Catholic Church in Asia. The church is located at the highest point of the hillside town centre of Taal in Batangas Province, surrounded by centuries-old houses or bahay na bato. She is  likened for a palace and a sentinel over the whole town. Kitang-kita at animo’y kastilyo sa isang fairy tale story! It sits prominently and majestically in front of the town plaza. This grand edifice is dedicated to the town’s patron saint, San Martin de Tours.

Details on Taal Basilica's facade

Built by the Agustinian friars, the basilica that you see now is the third incarnation of Taal’s church of Saint Martin of Tours. The first church was built somewhere in today’s San Nicolas in Batangas in 1575 by Fray Diego Espina. However, the eruption of Taal Volcano in 1754 destroyed that church. Later, it was moved to its current location and started constructing the new church in 1755. An earthquake toppled the church to the ground in 1849. It didn’t stop the Agustinians and the Taalenos to construct a brand new church designed by Spanish architect Luciano Oliver. The current church was built in 1856 to 1878. From that point on, it became the crowning jewel of the historical and heritage town of Taal—declared as a basilica in 1954 and as a national shrine in 1974.

If my Humanities 2 in college serves me right, Taal Basilica’s architectural design was more of neo-classical since the presence of Doric and Corinthian columns, two triangular and one arch pediment dominate its facade. Sometimes, I even thought that this was more of a civil building rather than a religious edifice. However, the facade is reminiscent of some great European churches. The basilica somehow differs from the usual baroque architecture that seems to dominate Philippine Spanish colonial churches.

The Main Retablo of Taal Basilica (From 2008 photo archives)

Side retablo and the church pulpit of Taal Basilica (From the photo archives of 2008)

Go inside and you’ll see how humongous this church is! Spacious and somehow, the baroque interiors are ever present—from retablos to chandeliers.

Outside, before you get into the church, you’ll be flocked by children selling red candles with a human figure on it. It’s kinda’ creepy for a first time but later on, you’ll get used to it. People here are friendly and are willing to help you out whenever you’re in need…something I’m longing for a buhay probinsya.

It was not my first time coming to the Basilica but somehow, it never fails to give me that gasp and awe that out Filipino ancestors left for us to marvel upon. Indeed, this goes to show that we Filipinos can aim for the best or even the greatest!

Taal Basilica peeking

Next stop…teka, lilipad na tayo. Tawid dagat! From the land of Kapeng Barako, we’ll be flying to the land of Batchoy–Iloilo, my hometown.

More photos of Taal Basilica and the Batangas quick trip here:

From the archives

Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

In observance of the Holy Week, HabagatCentral.com would embark on a journey similar to the Filipino tradition during these reflective times. With seven churches visited within the past three weeks in Batangas and Iloilo, tara na at bumisita tayo sa mga simbahan. More than just sites of Filipino religiosity, but also a mirror of the richness of Filipino culture and heritage. Our first stop: Batangas!

It was one hot summer Sunday when my family and I went on to Batangas. Just for a change of environment, especially church days, we went off to Taal. I’ve been here several times but I wanted to bring my family to this famed heritage village. Instead of heading to Pink Sisters in Tagaytay, we decided to go to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay—believed to be the patroness of the Batanguñeos.

Caysasay Belfry

The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay is found besides Pansipit River, just at the foot of the hillside town proper of Taal. The Shrine was believed to be where the image of the Virgin Mary was found amongst the casay-casay or kingfishers, sitting on a sampaguita bush.

The Legend of Juan Maningcad and The Blessed Virgin Mural

According to a legend, in 1603 at the town of Taal, a fisherman named Juan Maningcad found a six-inch image of Our Lady of Caysasay grabbed by his fishing net. Awe-stricken by its aura and presence, Maningcad began to praise the image and returned it home. Having learned the account, the priest of the town went to Maningcad’s house and requested that the image be venerated and celebrated a feast. From then on, under the guardianship of Madam Maria Espiritu, the image frequently disappeared. In 1611, the “Lady” was found on top of a sampaguita bush surrounded by kingfisher birds. Also, there were recorded miraculous appearances by the Lady and has done miraculous things. The people believed that the Lady would like to have her shrine built in the place where she was found, therefore the construction of the Shrine.

Ang Birhen ng Caysasay

The news spread like wildfire, first within Batangas, then beyond.

Inside the "pyramidical dome" of Caysasay Shrine

Up to this day, Batangueno Catholics go here and pay homage to the image of Caysasay. Believed to be miraculous, the image is located at the retablo in the church. Pilgrims have the chance to touch the image’s hair by going to the stairs behind the shrine.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Stairway

I have been here before, passing through Taal town proper then down to the grand staircase linking the uphill poblacion to Caysasay Shrine. Built during the Spanish colonial era, the grand stairway of San Lorenzo Ruiz is one major pedestrian link from the Basilica to the Shrine. Good exercise area too!

Our Lady of Caysasay Seal at the pediment of the shrine

Anyway, while I was taking a photo of candles at the front of the shrine, a local approached me and asked “Nakapunta na ba po kayo sa may balon?” I said, I haven’t. She replied, “dun po kasi huling nakita ang Mahal na Birhen, sana po pumunta po kayo din doon.” I wish I had the luxury of time–the Santa Lucia Wells, as they say, is worth exploring.

Red candles with a human figure

Something tells me that I’ll be returning in this shrine over and over again. Although small as compared to the Basilica just a few metres away, it still maintains its charm to be one of Batangas’s most significant religious places.

Our Lady of Caysasay Shrine Retablo

Next stop: That grand Basilica uphill! Basilica Minore de San Martin de Tours–said to be the largest of its kind in Asia!

Inside The Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

More photos of Caysasay, Basilica, Batangas and more here:

The Balisong family

Sinong Pinoy ba ang di nakakikilala sa balisong? Perhaps, there is no dagger as (in)famous in Philippine pop culture as balisong. The small, light and foldable dagger is really easy for anyone to hide it in their pockets—that is why it’s a crowd favourite. Being a “star” in Gus Abelgas’s show in the crime scene, balisong’s infamous legacy has developed a stereotypical image that “if you have a balisong, you’re feared by anyone.” Wow, seems that Panday has met his match! But people still wonder where does balisong came from, and they’ll soon find out that its origins are from the Land of A’la eh!

Welcome to Barangay Balisong, Taal, Batangas!

Balisong is a barangay in the heritage town of Taal in the province of Batangas. With more than 2,800 souls living, it’s only about two hours away from Manila via Tagaytay or even through SLEX. Kapeng barako may be strong but true enough, this province forged by fire has a fiery product that most Pinoys either feared or praised—the balisong. In other words, that famous “butterfly dagger” comes from Barangay Balisong, hence the name.

Balisong daggers

Along the highway going up north of the town proper of Taal (only a few metres away from the historic town center), you’ll see several stores along the highway, selling different kinds of balisong—and its affordable too! May Tatay, Nanay, Ate, Kuya, lolo o lola na balisong and whole lot more! Whew! Talk about expanded family!  Passers-by may want to purchase a key chain with a balisong for PhP50 (less than a dollar) or all the way to the size of a Japanese katana (or we know it as “samurai sword”). The handles come in at different colours and designs—choose what fits your lifestyle.

I look at Balisong as somewhat like a swordsman’s town. Seemingly, this would reflect perhaps on the warrior society of the Tagalogs and the courageous attitude of the Batangueños. This is the barangay’s main product, and people make swords and daggers for a living. I might even seek Batangas’s own Hatori Hanzo here (see Kill Bill)!

Balisong For Sale!

Unfortunately, I really don’t have the luxury of time to ask the sentiment of the people of Balisong on their product and their place’s name associated with dagger on a crime scene. However, the way I see it, this swordsman’s community testifies the fine craftsmanship and creativity of the Batanguñeos—a dagger that may rival Japan’s katana. Just take care and be responsible in handling balisong—it does wield power over life and death.

More Balisong and Batangas trip photos here:

After Carmel, after much debate about where to go next, me and my barkada went to the “Cattle Trading Capital of the Philippines.” Well, minalas because it was Black Saturday, so nothing much to do for that day except for some people who are practicing for the upcoming Easter rituals the day after. Sayang, I wanted to see the action of cattle trade in this place. May next time naman.

The old name of the said town was “Lumang Bayan” where it was once the seat of power of its neighboring town Rosario. Later, the town was renamed in honor of one of Batangas’ prominent sons, Padre Vicente Garcia.

So we went to the church of Padre Garcia. Officially called the Church of the Holy Rosary (Iglesia de Santo Rosario), it is grey and squat, it looks like as if it was covered by concrete yet still manifest its Baroque influence. Some say it pre-dates the establishment of Batangas Basilica by several years.

Also managed to inspect the convent which has some of its original parts still standing along with the new convent.

As we entered the church, it was coloured pastel orange of some sorts. Quite dark but it was cool enough inside to protect us from the searing summer heat. Kasi nga Abril. The parish priest was kind enough (and a kababayan from Panay Island) to let us climb the belfry…

Well, the belfry is where Bruce Wayne and Quasimodo meet. As you enter the narrow and dark stairs going up, the stench of pee-pee is so strong, I wasn’t able to breathe until I reached the top. Once there, you’ll get a magnificent view of the town and nearby Lipa. The floor was full of bat droppings! Talk about guano (but seriously, the bellboy said that they sell belfry guano at the market for farmer fertilizer).

As noon is nearing, we decided to go back to Lipa City, another 15 minute jeep ride back.

Black Saturday, the whole Philippines (well except for some pockets of it) is at its somber state. Having a big Catholic population, the economy would correspond to the religious needs in this country. Because no business whatsoever will be done for the day, my barkada (peers) and I decided to visit several heritage sites in the province of coffeebeans and balisongs, Batangas.

7:00AM. Assembly time. Good thing walang traffic. The bus terminal at Buendia corner Taft Avenue in Pasay City is not filled unlike the previous days. So, off for a 2 hour sojourn for Lipa City, ate Vi’s hometown and known for the miracles at Carmel. A bus ride from Manila to Lipa would cost you more or less PhP150+/- for air conditioned trip.

Catedral de San Sebastian de Lipa. We disembarked near La Salle Lipa, the hub of transport going to downtown Lipa City. At first we were searching for Ate Vi (mga diehard fans ba? hehe!!). Our first stop is the Cathedral of Saint Sebastian.

Being the ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Lipa which occupies all of Batangas, it is the center of religious activities of the said archdiocese. The current church itself was built under the supervision of an Agustinian priest named Benito Varas OSA which started from 1856 all the way to the last days of the Spanish colonial era at 1894. It’s magnificence was partially destroyed during World War II and was restored after the great diluge.

The Cathedral today, featuring a very tall belfry and a baroque facade and a dome (which was not present at the original plan), it has somewhat emulated the skyline similar to that of the Vatican City. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why it has earned the title of being the “Rome of the Philippines.”

The Miraculous Rose Petals of Carmel. Who would not have remembered the miraculous falling of the rose petals in Lipa? So after a visit to our first church of the day, off we go to the Carmel Convent which according to the locals, is just a few blocks away….and a few blocks away….man, these locals are so used in walking, ang layo pala! But our walking was rewarded with refreshing veranda, chapel and atmosphere of the said convent. The story is that in the late 1940′s, a nun had received an apparition from the Blessed Virgin Mary, and as a manifestation of Her power, rose petals with her face fell from nowhere. The Batangueños believed it was a miracle. Since then, thousands of devotees seek the tranquility of the said convent.

Actually after Carmel Convent, we decided to go to Padre Garcia instead of going to Batangas City. So may part 2 pa tayo dito sa Lipa, the hometown of Ate Vi, miracles and coffee plantations. So stay tuned.

Sino nga bang mag-aakalang pupunta ako ng Maynila sa kalagitaan ng semestre? Wala di ba? So, ayun, dahil na rin sa spirit of adventurism ko, napasabak akong mapa-Roro.

Sinubukan ko naman ang isang natatanging alternatibo na bukod sa mura na, marami ka pang lugar na makikita, ito ang pumunta sa Maynila sa pamamagitan ng “Strong Republic Nautical Highway” na pinasimunuan ni Pangulong Arroyo para magkaroon ng alternatibo ang “Maharlika Pan-Philippine Highway” sa may silangang bahagi ng Pilipinas.

ISLA PAN DE HAY!
Sumakay ako ng Philtranco. Bus Number 720. Aircon ito pero alam nyo kung saan ito dadaan? Sa Calinog. Opo, imbes na sa Pototan dumaan, eh napadaan pa kami sa Calinog na medyo napalayo sa destinasyon. (Gumising pa ako ng maaga tapos hinatid na ako sa terminal tapos dadaan lang pala sila sa amin! Gastos sa pamasahe!). Pumick-up sila ng pasahero sa daan na may tiket tapos nag-stop over kami sa Lungsod Passi at makainom nga ng kape at makakain ng “linagang pata na may alugbati” (surprised?!). Dalawang oras pa sa pawindang-windang, lubak lubak at makitid na daan patungo sa republika ng “mga taga-hawak ng puting perlas ng Pilipinas” (Aklan) bago kami sumapit sa kabisera nito, ang Kaeibo (Kalibo,hehe!). Nagkita kami ng matagal ko nang hindi nakikitang schoolmate na si Ate Jai-Jai, papunta rin syang Maynila kaso sa kabilang bus sya. Isa nanamang oras at kalahati ang lumipas (sa Ibajay, nakita kong nakaupo sa veranda ang isa naming kaklase nang napadaan ang bus sa kanila) at nakarating kami sa pier ng Caticean (Caticlan), ang sinasabing “gateway to the world’s best beach”, Boracay…

Noong nakaraan, pumunta ako dito kaso ako’y nanghinayang sa ganda na sinira ng masyadong komersalisyadong paligid nito. Kung maligo ka pa doon, para kang naligo sa pond na may puting buhangin dahil sa dami ng lumot sa dagat! Yuck! Anyway, balik sa biyahe, pinakain kami sa isang resto na kinontrata ng kumpanya ng bus. Aba! Medyo mahal ata ang pagkain, P40! Tapos, naghantay pa kami sa Caticlan ng 3 oras hanggang sa umalis kami sa pantalan ng bandang alas-3 ng hapon. Napadaan sa Boracay na parang wala lang at limang oras kami nagbiyahe sa laot patungo sa bayan ng Roxas sa Mindoro Oriental.

MV MAHARLIKA S**T-E
Ang limang oras ng nasa loob ng oven dahil sira ang aircon ng kwartong kinapapahingahan namin. Boring, grabe! Atat na atat na akong makadaong sa Mindoro! Buti na lang andyan si Ate JaiJai kundi baka nagwala na ako sa barko sa sobrang walang magawa! Ang bagal kasi! Tapos as usuall, ang pagkain ay mahal pa, kala mo lahat eh nasa dolyar ang presyo! 8:30 na ng gabi ng makarating kami ng Mindoro.

BATO BATO SA BUS, ANG RAMBUTAN MURA-MURA LANG
Kung tutuusin, ito ang kauna-unahang kong pagkakataong makatungtong sa Mindoro kaso gabi pa! Bwisit! Hindi ko ma-unawaan ang kagandahan ng islang ito dahil madilim ang paligid! Talk about first time huh?! Anyway, kumain ako sa kainan na sa uulitin, kinontrata ng kumpanya ng bus at sa aking paga-gulat sa presyo ng kakatiting na ulam at kanin na P50 ang halaga, para akong hinoldap! Sabi ko, “malapit na ako sa Maynila”. Ayun, dahil sa gutom sa biyahe sa laot, walang magawa. Nakita ko ang senyas: 126 KM to Calapan City-ang kabisera ng lalawigan. 3 oras pa, pero bago kami lumabas ng bayan ng Roxas, kami’y pagod at handa ng pumahinga ng pinatay ang ilaw sa bus at pinasasara ang mga kurtina dahil may mga nambabato daw sa daan. Binalewala ko na lang ang sinabi ng konduktor, baka pakulo lang ito, hindi pala.

Matapos ang 2 oras na biyahe, tumigil kami sa Happy Valley, bayan ng Socorro. Animio’y Davao ang simoy ng hangin ng dahil sa….DURIAN! DURIAN sa Southern Tagalog? Kala ko ba sa Davao lang ito?! Medyo maliliit at may konting kamahalan kung ihahambing mo siya sa durian sa Davao. May mangosteen at marang din. Amoy galing Mindanao ang bus tuloy! Pero ang napansin kong marami-raming binebenta rito ay ang rambutan. Sa halagang beinte pesos kada kilo (mura na ‘to) sabi nga ng aking ina, matamis ini! Kaya bumili ako (pasalubong ko kay mama ito). Umalis kami at nagpatuloy sa pagewang-gewang na kalsada sa Mindoro.

Pagsapit ng bayan yata malapit sa Naujan, nagkatotoo nga ang sinabi ng konduktor! Binato nga kami ng mga gago na walang magawa sa buhay! Patuloy pa rin kami sa pagbiyahe kahit na nangyari ang pambabato ng mga gago. Iniisin ko, bakit kaya binato kami? Gago nga ba sila o may rason? Nakaabot kami sa munting syudad ng Calapan ng hatinggabi ng antok at pagod! Sa pier, pinalipat kami sa bapor at doon nagpalipas ng 2 oras ng biyahe patungong Luzon, ang destinasyon: Lungsod ng Batangas.

ANG HARUROT SA TIMOG KATAGALUGAN

Hindi ako masyadong nakatulog sa barko habang binabagtas namin ang isa sa pinaka-busy na daanan ng barko sa bansa, ang Isla Verde Passage. Maraming barko ang dumaraan dito, araw-araw, gabi-gabi. Sa maliit naming bapor na kung tawagin ay StarLite Nautica, tinawid namin ang kipot. Sa Calapan pa lamang, sinubukan kong patugtugin ang mumurahin kong radio-walkman at sa aking surpresa, mga radyo na sa Maynila ang naririnig ko!

Ang Lungsod ng Batangas ay maliwanag kung makikita mo sa laot. Ang ganda pagmasdan ang mga ilaw na sumasaliw sa dilim at liwanag ng buwan. Nakita ko ang dati kong napuntahang paraiso, ang Ilijan, na ngayo’y pinatayuan na ng isang istrakturang planta. Paparating na kami sa pier ng makaamoy kami ng amoy-tae! Ang baho talaga, pero ok lang. Nakarating rin kami sa pier na sa palagay ko eh, pinakamoderno na yata sa bansa! At sa pagbaba namin sa pantalan ay ang pagkakataong masilayan ang sira ng bintana na binato noong gabing iyon sa Mindoro. Buti na lang walang nasaktan. Kami’y lumakad na…

Ang bagong expressway na STAR o Southern Tagalog Arterial Road ay nakapagpabilis ng biyahe namin patungong Maynila mula sa Lungsod ng Lipa. Hindi ko pala akalain na nasa Calamba na kami! Ang bilis! At isang oras o mas mababa pa, nakita ko ang mga bulwagang bago ng Alabang. Nakarating na pala ako ng Maynila. Puro expressways na ngayon no?!

MAYNILA SA KUKO NG LIWANAG

Nakarating ako ng Maynila, umaga na. Eksaktong 24 oras ng ako’y umalis sa Iloilo. Petsa: ika-21 ng Hulyo taong 2005. Bumaba ako sa Araneta Center Cubao. Tila gumanda ito mula sa nakakaligmok na itsura nito noon. Pangkumpetensya sa Makati! Sumakay ako ng MRT na may dalang bagahe at tumungo sa bahay sa Cavite. Bumaba sa Taft nang biglang bumuhos ang ulan. Sumakay sa isa nanamang bus patungong Imus. Himala sa aming biyahe at hindi trapik sa isang umaga na tila katapusan na ng mundo kung hindi magtatrapik sa Coastal Road hanggang Imus. Kung tutuusin, 5 kilometro lamang ang distansya ng Coastal Road sa Imus, pero 1 hanggang 2 oras ang biyahe kung rush hour! Believe it or not, dumaan dito ang Amazing Race 5 contestants! What a challenge!

Patuloy pa rin akong maglalakbay sa mga daanan sa Pilipinas…masaya. Maraming matutuklasan. Sa loob ng 24 oras, ang dami kong napuntahan. Pagod man ako o puyat, masasabi ko lang, sa mga nadaanan ko pa laman na lugar, ang dami na sana nating ipagmamalaki sa bansang tila yata lugmok dahil sa katarantaduhan ng iilan. Potensyal na tila hindi uusbong kung hindi ito aayusin at palalaguin. Tila, ironic lang talaga ang pangalan ng Nautical Highway na ito…