Deco's La Paz Bathoy

I haven’t eaten La Paz Batchoy since…I don’t remember. Heck, I haven’t eaten Batchoy when I went home in Iloilo just a couple of weeks ago! Although there are batchoyans here in Metro Manila, but I wanted to taste something different from the usual batchoy (yes, Lucky Me! therapy! Haha!)

I just found out that Deco’s La Paz Batchoy has opened up its first branch here in Manila…even though if the outlet has been open since last year pa! It’s located in the newly-opened Southgate Mall near Magallanes Interchange in  Makati (for commuters, its the big blue building with a television on top…and its on “EDSA-Mantrade”…sabihin nyo lang sa konduktor na “Mantrade”).

Oops, Halfway Done!

Had my “Super Bowl” for about P70+. (The La Paz Batchoy comes in three sizes, I got the medium-sized “super” bowl). Quite expensive as compared to its counterparts in Iloilo (oh yeah, reality check, I’m in Manila pala!) but it still retains that authentic La Paz Batchoy back home. The usual meke noodles (You can choose your type of noodles: the original meke, bihon or sotanghon) with pork innards, chicharon and that caldo that I’ve been “slurping” eversince! Put some pepper on it and voila! I miss that pre-war pan de sal that they sell which is often partnered with the soup…or you can go puto Manapla instead (pasaylo sa mga kasimanwa nga ari diri sa Manila, wala pandesal ni Pa-a diri).

It was my dinner, and I’m satisfied already. Finally, more choices for the big Ilonggo population in Metro Manila. We got Teds La Paz Batchoy already in several key locations in the Metro, and Deco’s is out here to compete–the authentic La Paz Batchoy wars have finally reached Manila! At least, I got a taste of home, away from home.

Deco’s is open from 10AM to 8:30PM and it’s just beside Mang Inasal.
Location map courtesy of Google Maps:


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Bacolor Church at Simbang Gabi, Pampanga, Philippines

It was a surprise visit, really. I never knew that we would go back to Bagong Pag-asa! It was just last Palm Sunday when we visited Bacolor, Pampanga for my visita iglesia. It’s the usual sightseeing and appreciation of our ancestor’s legacy to our country. This was no ordinary visita iglesia this time. For the longest time, I would like to see and listen to different misas del gallo in different provinces of the country…and Bro heard my prayers. For the first time, I’ve heard mass in vernacular…Kapampangan!

It was 4AM and our van driver was searching for the venue of the activity of Kraft Eden Cheese on a Simbang Gabi in a church in Pampanga. Like the three kings, we seeketh the venue like searching for Christ until the name “San Guillermo Church” was mentioned. It was music to my ears; I’ll be coming back where Santino is!

The cool breeze of Christmas dawn embraced the weary travelers and welcomed by the lights and the smell of incense. For me, it was heaven…savouring the smell of incense once more…after three years!

The Church of San Guillermo (or Saint William Parish Church) of Bacolor was of baroque feature built by the Agustinian friars sometime in the Spanish colonial era (More details here) Half-buried in lahar, it is a testament of resiliency of the Kapampangans to face the trials of living after Apo Namalyari unleashed his fury over the Philippines through Pinatubo. 18 years later, the belfry, the façade, the church, the old convent and the sementeryo where “Bro”was…half buried yet with their ravaged beauty held high above the new ground.

There were no Latin songs in the simbang gabi in Bacolor like the way we used to in Iloilo. Yet one thing that caught my attention was the heavy usage of Kapampangan language in the mass. Again, it was music to my ears and really made me listen even though I only understand “mangan tamu,” “mekeni,” and “kaluguran.” I think given if I was assigned in Pampanga, I might speak and understand the language well…how I wish I could be as polyglot as Rizal.

Here’s a glimpse of Kapampangan Gospel reading according to the book of Luke:

Before the priest gave his final blessing, the Bacolor youth presented their cultural performance of traditional Filipino dances. Celebrating the last day of misa del gallo and the day before Christmas. It was a joyous sight!

Facade of Bacolor Church, Pampanga, Philippines

And as fireworks explode up in the skies of Bacolor and the bells o’ringing…the sunrise greeted the people who attended the mass. It was a rare treat for me to hear Kapampangan in such way it was eloquently said and used. Truly, the beauty of our Filipino culture and the spirit of Christmas brought cheers and hope to all.

Merry Christmas to all!

Here’s the map of Bacolor Church, Pampanga courtesy of Google Maps:


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Pilipinas: Sa Delubyo at Ligaya

(mula sa The Bamboo Bayou ng berniemack.i.ph – published November 12, 2005)

Filipinos smiling despite the catastrophe (Photo from Felixberto Baguyo Jr.'s Blog http://www.bleuken.com/)

Ang Pilipinas ay itinuturing na isa sa mga pinadelikadong lugar pagdating sa mga sakuna na dulot ng lindol, pagputok ng bulkan, bagyo at iba’t ibang delubyo na dala ng inang kalikasan. Kung tutuusin, binibisita tayo ng humigit-kumulang na 18 o 20 na bagyo kada taon, may habagat na nagdadala ng malakas na bugso ng ulan tuwing Hunyo hanggang Oktubre. Mga lindol na aakalain mong katapusan na ng mundo tulad ng nangyari noong 1990 na sumira sa mga lungsod ng Baguio, Cabanatuan at Dagupan. Akala mo ang dagat dito hindi lumalamon ng lupa, noong 1976 ang Moro Gulf Tsunami ay kumitil ng libo-libong buhay sa baybayin ng Mindanao. Ang pagputok ng Pinatubo ay maituturing isa sa mga pagputok ng ika-20 siglo. Ayoko nang isa-isahin at baka maubos oras ko sa blog.

Sa palagay ko, maaaring dahil sa mga paghihirap nating nararanasan hindi lamang sa lipunan o ekonomiya, kundi sa pagharap sa mga delubyo na maaaring tayong mga tao ang nagdulot o di kaya’y paghihiganti ni Inang Kalikasan, ang nakapagpatibay sa atin habang dumadaan ang panahon. Kung tutuusin, para tayong mga kawayan na kahit anong lakas ng hangin, bumabaluktot lang tayo at hindi napuputol hanggang sa mamatay.

Nasabi nga pala sa Time Magazine noong Enero 2005 na ang Pilipinas daw ay isa sa pinakamasayang bansa sa buong mundo! Nakita ko sa larawan ng artikulong yaon na ang mga bata kahit nasa baha, nakangiti pa rin sa camera. Aba, napansin ko nga pala na kung andyan ang kamera ng media sa mga nasalantang lugar, hindi maiiwasan na ang iba ay kumakayaw sa likod o background ng taga-ulat. Akala mo’y di sila nadaanan ng delubyo! Sanay na si Juan de la Cruz sa mga ganitong pangyayari sa kanyang buhay, kahit mayaman siya o mahirap.

An Ode to Iloilo’s Catastrophe and Recovery

(mula saTragedy and Hope: An Ode to Iloilo’s Catastrophe and Recovery ng habagat.i.ph – published June 24, 2008 )

Storm Fengshen (Frank) ravages Iloilo / Photo by Ricky Alejo | AFP

Saturday, I was at the class. I was informed that Typhoon Frank would probably hit Manila since the public signal warning was at signal number two yet there was sunshine. I didn’t took “Frank” seriously as I thought as earlier foretasted, would evade the Philippines and go to Japan instead, but it made a landfall.

Saturday afternoon after class, me and my friend went to Antipolo to do some research but failed due torrential rains…and this text from one of my best buds shocked me: “Bro, grbe bha sa Pvia, ara sa a2p akn u2d. (Bro, the flood in Pavia was at the worst. My brother was even at the rooftop.)..I was numb. I called my grandmother and she told me that she evacuated our house as half of it was submerged all of the sudden by floodwaters. The appliances and everything has not been saved…She’s all alone. She said that it was the worst flood that hit Pavia in recent memory.

CNN coverage of Fengshen's devastation in Iloilo, Philippines

And as I went home and watched CNN, the scene of Iloilo’s catastrophe was flashed for few minutes…familiar places which traditionally don’t have floods were like Atlantis! Emotionally I was uneasy. I’ve been to the floods of Iloilo, experienced it first hand. But not this devastating.

“]

Fireman and members of a rescue group help an elderly woman out of the Jaro river near Iloilo city, central Philippines June 21, 2008. Typhoon Fengshen killed at least 17 people in floods and landslides in the Philippines and left a ferry adrift with over 700 passengers and crew on Saturday. REUTERS/Stringer [From BuhaysaKorea.com

Mother Nature’s wrath was awesome, I was dumbstruck. Never seen Iloilo this miserable, this state that anyone was caught on a surprise. Disaster!!!

Typhoon Frank floods Diversion Road, Mandurriao, Iloilo City | Photo by The News Today

Despite hell broke loose, I am thankful that my loved ones are Ok. Although my home at Pavia was devastated and appliances were not salvaged, nothing of it could replace the lives of my loved ones who survived the wrath. And although my loved ones survived, I still sympathize and pray for those who lost their relatives and friends, hoping that they would soon recover and see the light behind the dark clouds.

Fellow kasimanwas, we will prevail. Our spirits would not be dampened, yet learned our lesson from this tragedy. We Ilonggos in history has this attitude of never-say-die, we fought for our freedom from the colonists, we’ve thread the murky waters of depression, we stood mighty despite the dethronement, we still stand. This is the time that we can prove that we as Ilonggos are courageous despite our gentleness. Padayon guihapon Ilonggo! Pagkatapos sang sini nga kalaut na aton nga ginabatyag, amo na ni ang tiyempo sang panibag-ong pagsugod!

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And I thought this would be the last time I’ll be ever seeing such disastrous flood like that of Ormoc and Iloilo, but I was wrong…a year later, mud and flood waters swept the our nation’s capital and northern Luzon.

To be continued…

Originally posted at Habagat.i.ph on 21 May 2007

Ampatuan Residence, Sharrif Aguak, Maguindanao

Two years ago, I couldn’t believe that I crossed for what they say, one of the most treacherous highways in the country. Only a few years ago, during the Estrada Administration, the only thing that you see here are bombshells, mortars, evacuating people and guns, guns and more guns. Crossfire was everywhere, and media blows it all up in Manila.

That was several years ago. The waring factions agreed upon a ceasefire while two bodies of negotiators tried to resolve this centuries-old conflict. Me, I’m busy with my thesis, and will trace the path that most of my thesis respondents’ took to the Land of Promise, and it was through that path that they took the road, or maybe a way less traveled.

And now, on the headlines again, this side of this tropical state in the Philippines has a lot of potential when it comes to resources and tourism. A lot of things that are still untapped because of unreliable peace and order and poltical suitation in Maguindanao.

I believe that this highway is one of the most well-paved in the country. The shuttle van zoomed effortlessly through the fields and the hills of Sultan Kudarat, then to Maguindanao all the way to Cotabato City within just less than 2 hours.

One October morning, it was Ramadan for our Muslim brethen. I’ve been wanting to see the entrepot of my subjects in my thesis: Cotabato City, almost a hundred kilometers away from Tacurong City in Sultan Kudarat Province. And boy the van in Tacurong terminal was waiting to be filled up. I have to be there early, or else I’ll be stranded in Cotabato City without any idea where to sleep over. So, I went up to Isulan, the capital of the province, passing through palm oil plantations that are owned by Negrense hacienderos. Isulan is where most of Cotabato bound buses and vans pass by. One of the largest Christian settlements in Central Cotabato.

As we zoomed ourselves from Isulan by around 8AM, we were passing by ricefields, in full vista of the Teduray Mountains in the west. Surprisingly Mount Apo in the eastern side with its silhouette basked in morning sun and Mount Matutum in the south, somewhat like her sister in Bicol. We passed by Allah River, the lifeline of Allah Valley and Isulan-Esperanza area, and was also remembered as a rampaging white wall of water that claimed lives in 1995 after its headwaters in Lake Maughan bursted, blaming to mining activities.

As we crossed the border between Sultan Kudarat and Maguindanao, I got excited that for the first time, I was in the heart of the Bangsamoro. The landscape started to change. Barrios dotted with mosques and ricefields were getting less the farther we go inland. Still, the van was speeding up like a bullet train, we whisked ourselves passing by the town of Ampatuan.

Tamontaka River, Cotabato

But what brought me the shock and awe was when I passed by Sharrif Aguak, the capital town of Maguindanao Province (which by the way, in 2006 Maguindanao was divided into two provinces and the newly formed province was named Sharrif Kabunsungan) when this magnificent palace of the Ampatuans (who ruled Maguindanao as a modern sultan) rose among the plain nipa huts of the ordinary people. The magnificent palace was accompanied by the golden mosque inside the compound. A few meters from it is the new capitol of Maguindanao, like an intricate jewelbox in the hills, it manifests Moro architecture.

We went further deep into the Maguindanaoan heartland and the road went uphill with military posts and checkpoints of both AFP and MILF dotted along the road. Along the hillsides, ricefields were replaced by coconut groves and unused land. Population became sparse as we apprached Talitay and Talayan, two hilltop towns, and we are still 40 minutes away from Cotabato City.

Several kilometers onward, we approached a very busy town and noticed flagpoles with colors flying in their town. Busy streets with a lot of people selling goods. I think it was market day in Datu Odin Sinsuat (as referred locally as DOS) at that time, Seeing the town hall that as majestic as her sister in Cotabato City, manifesting the intricate art of the Maguindanaoan people. The crowd was a relif from desolation between the cabisera and DOS. I thought that within 10 minutes, we will be in the city, but I was wrong.

Zooming away past DOS, settlements along the roadside increases as we approach Awang, the site of Cotabato City’s airport and a barangay of the said town. The The homeland of the Tedurays in your left, steep and cogon-laid hills, while on the right were the marshes of Liguasan. Majority of Cotabato is somewhat like a lake, especaially in Maguindanao and the present day Sharrif Kabunsungan province. Due to the Pulangi River or Rio Grande de Mindanao, the plains are flooded and vast amounts of fish, flora and fauna and rumored oil reserves abound here. It was here that the people of Maguindanao derived their name, “Ranao”

Finally, we were in Awang, a crossroad community north of DOS. The location of Cotabato City’s airport and the gateway to the Teduray Highlands of Upi and the coastal towns of Sultan Kudarat province. As our van squeezes in on its narrow and crowded street, we were getting the feeling that we were near the city. As we get the glance of Awang airport in the left, we went uphill and finally descend to cross the southern branch of Rio Pulangi, Tamontaka, marking the entrance of the Bangsamoro cabisera that is also known as the Stone Fortress City.

That morning, in less than two hours time, my excitement of exploring new vista and terra gave me so much that it overwhelmed me. It was my first time that I crossed the comforts of my home down south. I wondered how the pioneers felt when they went here for the first time.

There are so many things other than passing by the highway or reading or seeing it thru the eyes of sensationalized national media. A culture and a place vastly unexplored and misunderstood. Maguindanao has a lot to offer.

Some tips in going to Cotabato City and the surrounding places:

1. Check with the local DOT or Provincial/Local Information Centers for updates or local situationers.
2. If you are coming from General Santos or Southern Cotabato and wanted to go to Cotabato City, the only bus liner that serves this line is Husky and the rest are van for hire. The earliest possible time to leave South Cotabato or Sultan Kudarat is 6AM and the last trip is at 4PM either going through Tacurong City or Surallah.
3. In case that you have the feeling that you cant go home immediately, contact anyone you know from the place or go to the City Hall for the list of hotels and accommodations.
4. Set your appointments.  If there are no importnant appointments then better postpone or cancel it. If you still want to move on, go to the local authorities to consult.
5. There are three possible ways to get to Cotabato City or the rest of Maguindanao. One is through direct flights from Manila and Cebu. The second one is through the sea via Zamboanga and the third is through land either coming from Zamboanga, GenSan, Cagayan or Davao.
6. Bring your spartan self and the respect for other cultures.
7. Have fun! Relax. Don’t get paranoid over news and heresays.

The Ampatuan mansion on Google Maps:

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