Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Philippines

You haven’t been to Vigan if you didn’t set on foot at Calle Crisologo. This is the heart and soul of Spanish colonial Philippine village of Vigan. This brought the city to its prestige as part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Indeed, Calle Crisologo, or sometimes called Vigan Heritage Village, transports people back into time when the Philippines was under Madre España.

The streetscape, spanning from Burgos Plaza towards Liberation Avenue, is lined with old bahay-na-bato houses, mostly made of brick or stone at the ground floor and hard wood on its second floor. The complete row of aged ancestral houses survived the onslaught of Mother Nature, wars and Father Time himself. Most of the roofs of the houses though are made of galvanized iron, only a few still use tejas or tiles.

The street is paved in cobblestone, much like any old urban cores during the Spanish colonial era. It is a vestige of colonial Europe in Asian setting.

A Calle Crisologo antique shop

As mentioned earlier, the bahay-na-bato houses are made of stone, brick or masonry in the first level while the second floor, made of hard wood. Houses back then were like this since they use the first floor, not as a residential floor, but as a bodega and garaje for their calesas. Some make their ground level floors as commercial shops. The second floor on the other hand was used as the residential area. It seems to have brought the bahay kubo aspect.

Hero, the calesa horse, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Our calesa stopped here. I was amazed with the number of heritage houses…the streetscape…everything! As if I was brought back a hundred years ago…minus the tourists though.

House under renovation, Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Today, Calle Crisologo is frequently used as a shooting location for local films and TV shows. I saw this at Marilou Diaz-Abaya’s film “Jose Rizal” and CCP’s “Noli me Tangere” series. The well-preserved streetscape and houses has brought tourists by the thousands every year. Houses were turned into antique shops or commercial establishments. It gave jobs to local Bigueños and Ilocanos and has boosted Vigan’s economy and commerce. Although the presence of tourists has brought “artificiality” in the area, this proves that old houses can be used for today’s benefit. Not only it teaches us our history and heritage as a Filipino nation, but on how we can create a sustainable living with our heritage held high!

It’s 11:30AM. Time to hit the road again and go back to Manila…(passing by La Union province though for a brief visit). We bid our cucheros farewell at Burgos Plaza, paid them and thanked them for their service. I shall return! Veni Vidi Vicci Vigan!

More photos of Calle Crisologo here:

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Calesa de Vigan

I’ve reiterated before that we only have a short half-day stay in Vigan City in Ilocos Sur. Bitin! But I’ve enjoyed it a lot…that I’m craving for coming back at Vigan in the near future. The laidback and charming heritage city in fairness can be toured within half-a-day, just like what we did last year…with several stops, appreciating Vigan’s nostalgic beauty. Tok-tok-tok-tok, the stomping of horses surrounds the city, somehow giving an ambiance of going back through time…Vigan in a calesa tour.

Plaza Salcedo & Plaza Burgos: Starting Lap

We’ve started the day at Plaza Salcedo, the largest plaza in town. (See related article of Plaza Salcedo) I’ve appreciated the beauty of the heart of Vigan’s power and urbanity. Plaza Salcedo has a wide plaza with a lagoon. Surrounding it is: the provincial capitol, the city hall, and the cathedral, Plaza Maestro shopping arcade and One Mart. Like every Philippine town, the plaza is the most important place during the Spanish colonial era.

Plaza Salcedo, Vigan, Ilocos Sur

On the other hand, Plaza Burgos is located on the southern side of the Cathedral and north of the Vigan Heritage Village of Calle Crisologo. It’s smaller yet it’s a venue for socio-civic activities. It is also here were you can find tourist calesas or horse-drawn carriages. And guess what, the cucheros or calesa-drivers are honest (and I like it!). No hidden fees, they’ll say the price of half-a-day tour around downtown Vigan straightforward. And guess what, its only P250 for the 2 hour trip (8am to 10am)! Incredibly cheaper than their Manila counterparts! And they’re friendly too. Nasingpet ti cucheros!

Along the way to Burnayan

Up ahead, Padre Burgos Museum

Vigan is like just any other Philippine city beyond its heritage charm. I really love the laidback atmosphere as we passed by the Capitolio and through Padre Burgos’s old house. In fairness for Vigan, despite the encroachment of modernity, calesas are still part of the public mode of transportation although they cater more to tourist nowadays. Bigueños on the other hand use tricycles or walking. The streets are narrow, a sign of being an old city planned during the time of the Spanish colonial era.

Burnayan

The burnayan or pottery place is a one stop shop for pottery and any souvenirs from Vigan. It is located at the corner of Liberation Boulevard and Gomez Street.

Burnays of Vigan

Burnay – Ilocano for pot(s). Vigan’s own pot and clay jars…big clay jars I mean. Creating one takes time and skill…with earth forged with water and hardened by fire. It is a distinct mark of the Bigueos.

Liberation Boulevard

Quite a unique name though. This boulevard runs through east to west. It is one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares. It connects the commercial district at Quezon Avenue, the city’s public market, the old cemetery, Vigan Heritage village in Calle Crisologo and the residential areas. A number of bus stations such as Domimion, Partas and Farias pass by this street. This boulevard is usually packed with tricycles, cars and calesas. This is the only area in Vigan where you could experience that traffic congestion that only big cities offer.

Traffic congestion near Vigan Public Market

One landmark in this boulevard though is the old cemetery of Vigan locally called as Bassit Cemetery and the capilla/camposanto. The old graveyard site, along with its baroque chapel, still functions as one of Bigueos’ resting place. The camposanto is whitewashed and the graveyard is still surrounded by its Spanish colonial stone fences. It’s giving a taste of what Philippines were a century ago.

Cemetery Chapel of Bassit (Simbaan a Bassit), Vigan City

Vigan City Public Market / Tiendahan

Locally called “Tiendahan,” this is Vigan’s central public market. This is where you can virtually buy almost any delicacy that Ilocanos can offer. We bought our bagnet here (dried pork deep fried) as well as the sukang Iloko (Ilocano rice vinegar).

Vigan City Public Market

Museo Crisologo

We’re on our way to Calle Crisologo. But before that street, we passed by another Crisologo place in Vigan…which is just along Liberation Boulevard. The ancestral house of the powerful Crisologo clan was turned into a museum. The house, home of solon Floro Crisologo, features the family’s photos, memorabilia and the display on his assassination in 1970s by unknown gunmen. Floro was one of those who worked towards enacting the Tobacco Law (Ilocos’s famed cash crop is tobacco) and the establishment of SSS or Social Security System in the Philippines.

Outside Museo Crisologo

After that brief visit in one of the houses of Vigan’s prominent families, we’re on our way to Calle Crisologo…the climax of the calesa trip at Vigan.

And…it’s just only past ten in the morning! I just love the crisp Ilokano weather!

Wen Manong! Speaketh and ye shall receiveth bargaineth!

Our mamang cuchero in Vigan

Looking for bargain in Ilocos? I know Ilocano is one of the most difficult languages that I have to learn (despite that my lineage is also of Ilocano blood…mom’s Ilocana) but just only say these words and your wallet’s wounds shall be healed:

Buy – Gumatang.

How much is it? – Mano daytoy?

Can you lower the price? Mabalin nga ilaklakam basit ti presyo na manang/manong/adding? (manong, manang or adding refers to the person).

Cheap – Nalaka.

Expensive – Nagngina met.

Thanks – Agyamanak; Thank you very much – agyamanak unay.

I hope these words can bring you bargain souvenirs.

More photos here of Museo Crisologo Inside:

And through the streets of Vigan:

And the Calesa Route that we took a year ago:


View Vigan Calesa Route in a larger map

Santa Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

It was my first time conquering Ilocos Sur, the land of my ancestors (mother side). My primary aim there together with my family was to have the grasp of the heritage that our Filipino ancestors left during the Spanish colonial era. Vigan City was one of them of course, but I have set my eyes towards one of the four baroque churches inscribed in the World Heritage List, the Santa Maria Church or Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de la Asuncion (Simbahan iti Asunta sa Ilokano).

The Grand Staircase at the Northwestern Flanks of Santa Maria Church

The Church of Santa Maria or sometimes called Santa Maria de Assunta Church is found at the town of Santa Maria in the province of Ilocos Sur, about an hour away from Vigan City. This magnificent ancient structure is located in the town’s narrow hill overlooking the poblacion (town proper) and its vast plains and hills. The church compound is made up of the church itself, the belfry and the convent in front of it. If you are a Kapamilya fan, you should’ve seen this in their soap opera “Panday.”

Santa Maria Church Hexagonal Belfry, where Jericho Rosales pulled out Panday's sword.

Built starting in 1810, it was believed to be the place where the Blessed Virgin’s image was frequently found after series of disappearance during the Spanish colonial period. (Sounds very familiar to other stories in the islands as well.) The church was made by the Ilocanos under the supervision of the Agustinian friars (therefore it’s an Agustinian church, same as with the rest of UNESCO’s baroque churches in the country!). The church is dedicated to its patroness Our Lady of Assumption or La Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.

Just me and Santa Maria church

Upon entering the church, you’ll be greeted by a grand flight of staircases towards the church on top of the hill. It has 83 steps so better have your bottled water ready for those who haven’t had an exercise in a long time!

Grand Staircase of Santa Maria Church

The church itself is narrow, made up mostly of red bricks, stone and lime. In detail, the church’s decors on the wall have its floral design. The façade itself, although not intricate, yet simply has a rectangle column with massive circular buttresses on its side soaring towards the urn finials on the top of the pediment. The façade of the church is blocked by a bridge linking the church and the convent some few meters away. The buttresses on its sides serve as its protection against possible collapse. On its northwestern walls, there is a mural of Our Lady…but I heard that this is somehow a more recent addition to the church and not during the construction of the church itself. The narrowness of the hill has somehow made this impressive and massive structure a bit smaller compared to its sisters in Ilocos. However, this factor was one of the reasons why it is one of the most outstanding in its simplicity of its baroque features.

The more recent addition of the relief of Our Lady of Assumption in Santa Maria Church's walls

The hexagonal belfry on the other hand is separated from the church itself. One popular theory states that the parish priests tend to move away the belfries to avoid major damages during earthquakes which rattle the country.  It was later remodeled however it began to lean after the foundations have settled…well a bit leaning but it’s still safe to go there though.

The eastern staircase leading to an abandoned Spanish colonial era cemetery, Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur

Because of its uniqueness in execution of the baroque architecture, culture and historical value, it was designated as a national landmark by the National Historical Institute during 1970’s and was finally designated as part of the World Heritage List by 1994. Truly, it is a landmark that Ilocanos are proud and behold of. Too bad I had a short time and the church was closed…haven’t seen the interiors of the church.

The UNESCO World Heritage Marker at Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur...and its fading!

Going there:

We went there upon returning from our trip to Vigan. Again, its about an hour away either by private or public buses. The most convenient way for you to access Santa Maria are Ilocos-bound buses such as Farias, Partas, Viron bus lines that serve either Laoag, Vigan in Ilocos or Bangued in Abra.  The fare directly to Santa Maria is probably approximately between PhP 400 to PhP 500 one way and its about 7 hours trip from Manila. (Well, last year, it was a grueling 14 hour ride, almost all of the cars in Metro Manila I think left for the provinces, and major traffic jams that lasted for miles occurred in Dau, Tarlac and most especially Rosales-Villasis-Urdaneta area!)

View of Santa Maria town proper and several of its seven hills

More photos here on this slideshow:

Morning came, well…early m0rning…after that long exhausting journey from Manila. We reached Vigan at around midnight with almost all of the hotels and inns fully booked! Talk about vacation during Christmas season! Anyway, we’ve managed to find a roadside hotel in the outskirts of Vigan City, in the town of Bantay.

And yes, the cocks crowed and that rustic Cordilleras dominate the landscape that is distinctly Ilocandia! First stop, Bantay Church…Oh well, before you enter the cabisera of Ilocos Sur province, you’ll have to pass by Bantay…pero kung tutuusin parang kabilang barangay lang ng Vigan ang Bantay, both town/city centers are so near each other!

Anyway, one thing that really attracts me with Ilocos so much are those antiquated Catholic churches which dates back when Don Quixote ruled the islands. Mostly made of red bricks and stone, it stood the elements of time and nature. And before you enter the UNESCO’s World Heritage City of Vigan, Bantay, as the town’s name suggest, seems to be a vanguard of these centuries-old heritage houses of Vigan and the rest of Ilocandia.

Nag-bantay Ditoy! Bantay Church and Belfry

The Lady of Charity (or La Nuestra Señora de la Caridad) forever guards the citizens of this town as the legend says. Only the Bantayeños can carry the said image and forever it’ll stay, therefore the name Bantay. That morning, we head on to Bantay Church with its trademark gothic architecture in its main church and the landmark stand-alone belfry situated on top of a hill overlooking the town proper and the city of Vigan. Like the rest of the campanarios in Ilocos, one of the major reasons why it was build separate from the church is to prevent collateral damage to the place of worship since the belfries usually fall first before the rest of the establishment.

Just at the foot of the belfry hill, the Church of San Agustin is one of Ilocandia’s oldest. Built sometime in late 16th Century by Agustinian friars, it managed to survived several earthquakes in the region but was damaged during World War II and the damaged facade was later restored in the 1950′s. Distinctively made mostly of red bricks and lime, the church and even the beflry exhibits gothic, romaneque and baroque features with the fromer dominating in both interiors and the facade f the main church.

In January 1956, the Papal Nuncio crowned the legendary image of La Nuestra Señora de la Caridad, the guardian and the patron saint of Bantay.

Guarding the River: Quirino Bridge

Somehow I’ve seen Juday’s movie together with the late Rico Yan being shot in this overly-dramatic yet somehow magnificent bridge. The Quirino Bridge itself os not an engineering marvel like that of Brooklyn Bridge or Millau Viaduct of France but its setting and awesomely serene landscape makes the said infra a landmark in its own right.

Before approaching the bridge, you’ll marvel the ruggedness of northern Luzon’s coastline, with dramatic and rustic mountains kissing the South China Sea before endering a valley seemingly dwarfed by the gargantuan hills.

Built in steel-arch type, it sits guard dwarfed by the mountain guardians of the land of the Tinggians and of Abra River. named after former president of the Philippines Elpidio Quirino.

A portion of it was destroyed by Typhoon Feria in 2001 which made hard for the Ilocanos and tourists to access Vigan and Laoag to the rest of Luzon, putting the importance of this bridge to commerce and every lives of Ilocanos. A few months later it was later restored, but the section that was destroyed didn’t regained its former arched glory. However, life went back to normal at Apo Singson’s land.

Just a few meters downstream of Abra River, the so-called under-construction Singson Bridge, which is higher than the Quirino Bridge, would be the new link of Ilocos yet the Quirino Bridge would still remain its grand old charm.

Its a remarkable welcome sign for weary visitors to the heart of the rugged yet beautiful Ilocandia, shared by the towns of Bantay in the northern banks and Santa in the south.

Just as these two landmarks in Bantay, Ilocos Sur would run out of words in describing it, what more for the rest of Ilocandia. Her rugged beauty is really alluring and her strength is her people. More to come in Ilocandia.

Pictures of Bantay Church and Belfry, click here or view the slideshow:

Pictures of Quirino Bridge, click here or view the slideshow below: