Wow…It’s been almost two weeks since the festivities and I still can’t get over the January celebrations either. That January though, I came home for somewhat like an annual pilgrimage for myself. I couldn’t resist the temptation of those throbbing drums pounding loud and hard in this southern Philippine city every January. I’ve been with this festival since 2003, yet it never failed to amaze me as it continually innovates itself year after year it is being celebrated by the Ilonggos. Outrageous and frenzy as some say it may seem but this is Iloilo’s grandest fiesta at its finest!
It was one crisp morning of January that the city streets were starting to feel the throbbing beat of the drums, as if Iloilo City’s core was a heart. As the sun shines in this central Philippine city, the crowd gradually increased to witness and enjoy Iloilo’s grandest fiesta, the Dinagyang Festival. Now, this is the time you’ll be seeing those dancers painted in dark brown (back then it was black…welcome to the era of political correctness, hehe!) with colourful costumes and choreography so agile and fast that you shouldn’t blink during their performance!
Dinagyang is Iloilo’s way to celebrate the arrival of the replica image of Santo Niño from Cebu and a way to thank the Almighty for the blessings that He has provided. The said event is held every 4th weekend of January, a week after Cebu’s Sinulog and the Ati-Atihan Festival of Kalibo in Aklan. Given one week interval, tourists and travelers should try extending their party extravaganza in the Visayas which always start during Christmas. It has recently been elevated into the “Hall of Fame” after being adjudged by the Association of Tourism Officers of the Philippines as the “Best Tourism Event” for three consecutive years.
The Ati-Ati competition is the highlight of the Dinagyang festivities. The celebration and competition is homage to the indigenous Ati people of Panay Island, the mythical event of the “Barter Trade of Panay” and the native’s conversion to Christianity. This is where you see those soot-covered warriors fiercely dancing to the beat of the drums and shout “Hala Bira!,” “Viva Señor Santo Niño!,” and occasionally “Pit Senyor!” (it is more synonymous to Sinulog of Cebu–which the Confradia and the devotees also shout during Dinagyang’s religious sad-sad). Borrowing from Jessica Zafra’s latest article, you might wonder that this is a result of Iloilo’s sweet delicacies to the warrirors…
Before we proceed, lets have a flashback on the origins of Dinagyang…
San Jose de Placer Parish Church, Iloilo City -- This is where the replica image of the Santo Niño de Cebu is enshrined during Dinagyang festivities
It was in 1968 when an Agustinian priest, Fr. Sulpicio Ebderes, OSA, brought a replica image of the Santo Niño from the Basilica Minor de Santo Niño de Cebu. Brought by the mission of spreading devotion to the image of the Christ Child, the Agustinians, led by then San Jose Parish Priest Fr. Ambrosio Galindez, OSA–together with the Confradia de Santo Niño de Cebu-Iloilo chapter–celebrated it solemnly through a high mass and a fluvial procession from Fort San Pedro to the Iloilo Provincial Capitol through Iloilo River, then a foot procession back to San Jose de Placer Parish Church where it is enshrined.
The Replica Image of the Señor Santo Niño
At first it was solemn, a year later they started celebrating it at the streets with an Ati tribe brought from Kalibo. Soot-covered men dancing to the beat of the drums celebrated the arrival of the image of the Santo Niño from then on. From that point on, it became synonymous as Iloilo Ati-Atihan.
Street Dancing at the historic Calle Real, Iloilo City
Back then, there were only a few tribes which would participate. Very simple and indigenous, it resembled Kalibo’s Ati-Atihan in a way that the dance steps are simpler and they only paraded in the streets of downtown Iloilo in the afternoon with Freedom Grandstand as the only judging station. Since then, the confradia has given up organizing the said festivity due to its increasing size and had it passed to the Iloilo City government.
In the 1970s, under Marcos administration, the Ministry of Tourism launched a program that propelled Iloilo’s citizens to think of an innovative idea in cultural presentation. In 1977, the late Pacifico Sudario, a radio personality at that time, coined the term “Dinagyang” for the Iloilo Ati-Atihan. The Hiligaynon term dagyang means “merry-making” or “to make merry.” The term was adapted to the festival and now it is called Dinagyang festival.
Fast Forward: Dinagyang 2010
I’ve mentioned earlier in a post that the annual cultural Mardi-Gras of Kasadyahan will be moved to a different date starting next year. Other than these developments, the celebration of the 42nd year of Dinagyang has been generally peaceful. The streets are full of people from all walks of life. Stalls selling food, souveniers, tattoos and so much more line up the downtown streets. The now four judging areas are filled to the brim. So many activities have been going on in Iloilo City during those times.
Drum Beats Echo in the Streets of Iloilo City
In this year’s Dinagyang, the drum beats still never failed to amaze me. It still gives me goose bumps! The battle of the Ati tribes persisted the whole morning. Frenzied, I took out my camera and started taking those energetic moments while they are performing in our performance judging area at the Capitol area.
In my opinion, taking Dinagyang shots during their performance stint still holds as one of the most challenging subjects in festival photography in the Philippines. You’ll never know what the tribe’s next dance step is, as they are so fast and even furious…you’ll be overwhelmed by the energy the dancers display! Dinagyang is known for such hyper-frenzied and fast-paced choreography. From the simple steps of the Iloilo’s version of Ati-Atihan four decades ago, it has evolved with such lavish and complicated dance steps. (For more of the choreography of the three major Santo Nino festivals in the Visayas, click here.)
Here are the Top 5 Dinagyang Ati tribes for this year:
Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High still reigns as the champion for this year’s Dinagyang.
Tribu Paghidaet of La Paz National High School
Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High on the other hand, landed as the 1st runner-up for this year.
Tribu Bola-Bola of Iloilo National High School
Tribu Pan-ay (formerly Tribu ni San Pedro) of Fort San Pedro National High placed itself on the 2nd runner up spot.
Tribu Pan-ay of Fort San Pedro National High School
Tribu Salognon (formerly Tribu Taga-Jaro) of Jaro National High School bagged the 3rd runner up spot.
Tribu Salognon of Jaro National High School
Tribu Silak (formerly Tribu Lunok) of Iloilo City National High is on the 4th runner up spot.
Tribu Silak of Iloilo City National High School
Nonetheless, this year’s performance overall was good. Mayor Treñas (in his last term as the mayor of the city) even stated that the 2010 Dinagyang was “the best so far.” The intense heat of the afternoon sun has dispersed the tribes and the crowd all over the city, but it has failed to lessen the crowd. The people, after witnessing and celebrating together with the cheers, are foraging for another Iloilo’s major attraction: food! As for myself and my companions, mission accomplished…and like others, I’m craving for food that I missed so dearly with Iloilo.
Visayans really know how to party, big time! The revelry that I see all throughout the islands manifests the love for life of the people, that’s why they were said to be one of the happiest peoples in the country. Faith and dance has always been part of the Visayan culture, even started before the Spanish colonizers came here. But in any case, the pagan rituals and mythical references was successfully merged with the new faith that the Filipinos accepted. Today, like Dinagyang, the Santo Niño festivities has and always be colourful and lively, all in the name of thanksgiving to the Almighty. I say, Hala Bira to life!
Wow. These shots are fantastic. Gaganda ng mga kulay ng costumes. And you really brought out the spirit of the revelry.