Simbang Gabi the Kapampangan Way: Bacolor Pampanga

Bacolor Church at Simbang Gabi, Pampanga, Philippines

It was a surprise visit, really. I never knew that we would go back to Bagong Pag-asa! It was just last Palm Sunday when we visited Bacolor, Pampanga for my visita iglesia. It’s the usual sightseeing and appreciation of our ancestor’s legacy to our country. This was no ordinary visita iglesia this time. For the longest time, I would like to see and listen to different misas del gallo in different provinces of the country…and Bro heard my prayers. For the first time, I’ve heard mass in vernacular…Kapampangan!

It was 4AM and our van driver was searching for the venue of the activity of Kraft Eden Cheese on a Simbang Gabi in a church in Pampanga. Like the three kings, we seeketh the venue like searching for Christ until the name “San Guillermo Church” was mentioned. It was music to my ears; I’ll be coming back where Santino is!

The cool breeze of Christmas dawn embraced the weary travelers and welcomed by the lights and the smell of incense. For me, it was heaven…savouring the smell of incense once more…after three years!

The Church of San Guillermo (or Saint William Parish Church) of Bacolor was of baroque feature built by the Agustinian friars sometime in the Spanish colonial era (More details here) Half-buried in lahar, it is a testament of resiliency of the Kapampangans to face the trials of living after Apo Namalyari unleashed his fury over the Philippines through Pinatubo. 18 years later, the belfry, the façade, the church, the old convent and the sementeryo where “Bro”was…half buried yet with their ravaged beauty held high above the new ground.

There were no Latin songs in the simbang gabi in Bacolor like the way we used to in Iloilo. Yet one thing that caught my attention was the heavy usage of Kapampangan language in the mass. Again, it was music to my ears and really made me listen even though I only understand “mangan tamu,” “mekeni,” and “kaluguran.” I think given if I was assigned in Pampanga, I might speak and understand the language well…how I wish I could be as polyglot as Rizal.

Here’s a glimpse of Kapampangan Gospel reading according to the book of Luke:

Before the priest gave his final blessing, the Bacolor youth presented their cultural performance of traditional Filipino dances. Celebrating the last day of misa del gallo and the day before Christmas. It was a joyous sight!

Facade of Bacolor Church, Pampanga, Philippines

And as fireworks explode up in the skies of Bacolor and the bells o’ringing…the sunrise greeted the people who attended the mass. It was a rare treat for me to hear Kapampangan in such way it was eloquently said and used. Truly, the beauty of our Filipino culture and the spirit of Christmas brought cheers and hope to all.

Merry Christmas to all!

Here’s the map of Bacolor Church, Pampanga courtesy of Google Maps:


View Bacolor Church, Pampanga in a larger map