Surreally Heavenly: First Momma Chewing Experience in Sagada

I got this penchant for exploring new things whenever I’m travelling, especially when it is something that is deeply etched in the psyche of the locals. As for the Kankanaey-Igorots of Sagada, chewing betel nut or momma is a tradition that has been in their culture for generations. And for the loco like me, I wanted to try one!

Chewing betel or areca nut (nganga in Tagalog, momma in Kankanaey, ma-ma in Bisaya) is a common practice among several of our indigenous and even mainstream peoples of the Philippines, from Luzon to Mindanao. Usually, it is chewed with the betel leaf, a piece of the nut, and lime.

I’m no smoker, but way before cigarettes came in the islands, chewing momma is the fave past time of our ancestors. Chewing relentlessly until the mouth reddens, with saliva “painted” from light to dark colours. I’m curious as to why it seems addicting to those who chew it. Some say, when you chew it, a strange and surreal feeling of bliss of sorts “daw.” Because of that, I tried!

Our Kankana-ey guide Ate Norma discouraged me from taking one, as she said the experience of chewing betel nut is bewildering and sweating like hell. That didn’t hamper me. Tuloy ang ligaya!

Upon reaching Barangay Aguid after our long walk from Bomod-ok Falls, there is a mini stall selling momma. I bought one which costs less than P30 to P50 for the whole set: Betel leaf, nut, and lime. In other cases, instead of betel leaf, some use tobacco leaves with nut and lime…hebigat sa high!!

And so I tried, I chewed…and the taste is just…weird. It was a bit spicy yet something surreal. It does taste sometime like fluoride toothpaste, but it felt like as if my mouth and my body were sweating in heat in the middle of cool Sagada noon! Then my mouth and saliva turned red. I added more apog or lime to intensify the “burning” yet a bit addicting sensation in the momma. Weird taste!

Then I spewed it. The momma stained my mouth and I was speechless afterwards, then laughing at my experience. (By the way in Cordillera, since momma chewing is rampant, it is advisable not to spit the momma-ridden saliva anywhere else. Most public places in Cordilleras prohibit spitting momma.)

As a remembrance, I brought home the betel nut, the leaves, and the apog in Manila. I just don’t know how my mom would feel if she sees me chewing betel nut at home. Indeed, this first time chewing momma was surreally heavenly.